Solution for bluing steel. Burnishing - beautiful and durable

On metal surfaces, in contact with air, a flat oxide film coating is formed, which performs the function of protection against destruction due to the electrochemical interaction of metals with the environment. But to a greater extent, such films cannot protect against the aggressive action of corrosion, therefore, an artificial oxide coating is actively used in metallurgy. Most often, gun barrels and agricultural implements are subjected to bluing.

Blueing of steel is the process of the appearance on the surface of a steel or cast iron product of a film of iron oxides up to 10 microns in size. The size of the layer affects the hue of the finished copy - iridescent colors alternate with each other in accordance with the increase in the thickness of the coating. Today, this treatment is used mainly as a decorative finish and to eliminate the reflection of steel surfaces, but the original purpose of this process was to reduce corrosion of the metal substrate.

Steel burnishing methods

Traditionally, three methods of bluing steel are used:

Alkaline;

Acid;

Thermal.

Alkaline bluing of steel is carried out in alkali solutions with oxidation catalysts at 130-150 °C, acid bluing - in acid compositions by chemical-physical or electrochemical methods. In the thermal type, the oxidation of steel is carried out under the influence of elevated temperatures in one of the working media:

In a superheated atmosphere at 250-450 °C;
. in a vaporous ammonia-alcohol solution at 500-850 °C;
. in melted salts at 450-650 °C:
. in the atmosphere at 300-450 °C with the initial application of a small layer of varnish on the surface of the products.

The structure of the resulting film has a fine-crystalline, microporous structure. To restore shine and improve the protective qualities of the oxide coating, steel is blued in oil, saturating it with technical lipophilic substances.

In chemical bluing, in contrast to mechanical painting, which consists in the mechanical application of a paint and varnish agent with a direct dye to the product, coloring pigments are substances that are formed during the chemical reactions of the direct oxidation process. With this type of processing, the metals themselves or their chemical oxides act as dyes.

Most often, the technology of chemical burnishing of steel is a "wet" operation, that is, one in which liquid solutions of metal salts take part. The blued film obtained in this way is characterized by considerable durability and reliable adhesion to the steel substrate, since the metal itself undergoes chemical-molecular changes on the surface, as a result of which it is converted into a paint coating. When bluing stainless steel, an extremely close and integral splicing of the substrate material with the paint film is achieved, which is not obtained in the process of mechanical painting.

The composition for bluing steel can have a variety of components, texture and consistency. The most popular means for this are a special blued liquid, paste and pencil. When working with them, the oxidation process should be performed several times, since a single exposure gives the product a dull, faded hue. With each repeated bluing, the color of the steel darkens significantly and becomes the most acceptable for different types of products.

Features of bluing steel

The main condition for successful burnishing is the absolute cleanliness of the treated surfaces, and cleaning should be carried out right before the chemical treatment itself, since the outside of the metal can again change from contact with air. The uniformity of this metalworking process is achievable only when the steel is completely bare over the entire surface and is accessible to the action of the appropriate reagents at each of its points. Various steel burnishing technologies are based on two types of coating formation:

With the use of processing material;

With the inclusion of surface elements of products in the process.

A lively color palette and a spectacular appearance of the finished product are formed as a result of a special final mechanical processing. Microscopic particles of the metal surface lose their natural structure and a special order in mutual arrangement due to the chemical action of the steel blueing liquid, and therefore they, in combination, cease to produce the optical effect of a uniform surface, giving the product a haze. Mechanical rubbing and brushing again restores the original order and relationship in the placement of the surface elements of the steel, thus increasing the visual effect of the treated surface.

IN industrial practice steel objects are blued, making a significant layer of rough scale on them. This is achieved by heating the product to red heat in the furnace, for this, flue gases of different composition are systematically sent to the furnace. Another technology is a long 10-hour treatment with highly superheated steam. Blueing operations on steel surfaces are carried out in special workshops with specialized equipment.

The process of cold burnishing of steel has advantages compared to the hot method:

The process can be applied to all kinds of steel, cast iron and powder metal products.

The solution for this operation is universal, different metals can be oxidized in one bath.

Increased decorative characteristics of the coating - products acquire an intense rich black tint.

The increased efficiency of the technology is due to the absence of heating and maintenance costs. working environment at the optimum temperature. The operation is carried out at shop temperature.

Applying a paint and varnish coating to the surface of metal products is a way to make parts beautiful and protect them from deformation or the formation of a corrosive layer. There are not only special paints, but also a burnishing method, which is distinguished by the use of iron oxides during a chemical reaction. As a result, it is possible to obtain a surface with a unique appearance and persistent resistance to external factors.

Features of metal coloring

A huge number of staining methods has expanded the color base. Depending on the method of applying the paintwork and the oils, acids and various degrees of heating used, it is possible to make any color, even a lemon color.

All paint application options are divided into two types:

mechanical;
chemical.

In the mechanical application of paint, various powders are used, which are sprayed, sprayed, hammered, applying special tools. This option does not differ in quality, beauty or uniqueness, but is appreciated by motorists due to its low cost. Besides, mechanical staining easy to do at any service station or even with your own hands, if any necessary equipment.

The application of the chemical method requires experience and knowledge of the sequence of the entire procedure. The first thing to do is to clean the metal surface from the old paintwork. Next, the damaged areas of the primer are restored, which are previously cleaned of rust. After the metal acquires an ideal surface, it is degreased. Small parts for oil removal are placed in solvents such as gasoline, ethyl or ether. The treated parts are immersed in boiling water and only then subjected to chemical staining.

Applying a paint coating is not enough if you want the metal to acquire an elegant look and shine of the surface and remain so even with frequent use. A similar problem is solved by oxidizing steel.

This procedure includes rubbing the surface with mixtures such as:

nitric acid mixed with alcohol, water and copper sulphate in the form of sawdust;
acid ink-nut color, including iron and antimony;
silver nitrate with the addition of water;
olive oil with antimony chloride.

After applying one of these mixtures to a metal surface, it is subjected to heat treatment. The result of the work will depend mainly on how well the part was cleaned of grease, dust and dirt.

This method is often used to protect the weapon, automotive parts from scratches and chips. To achieve protection is obtained in other less effective, but cheap ways. For example, many people do metal burnishing with oil at home, which, thanks to the crystal structure of the protective layer of paint, penetrates and creates shine and an additional layer of protection.

If all the work is done by yourself, then it is important to remember that after drying, the painted metal will look darker than when wet. Therefore, taking into account such features, it is necessary to correct the color in an acceptable direction.

Do-it-yourself blackening methods

There are many ways to blacken a steel surface. The most popular of these include the use of alkaline, acidic solutions or heat treatment. Each of these methods requires special equipment, but some options for bluing steel material can be done at home.

A simple, cheap and safe method refers to the processing of metal with an alkaline material. For bluing with alkali you will need to additionally find and prepare:

sodium hydroxide;
sodium nitrate;
water;
digital scales;
protective clothing.

The protection list must include gloves, boots and a respirator. Old clothes will do as the rest of the protection. Some formulations require saltpeter or phosphoric acid.

For processing metal parts stainless steel utensils are required, otherwise chemical reactions with alkali may occur. Blueing is carried out at a certain temperature, so the solution is first poured into a container and brought to a boil. In this state, the alkaline solution is about an hour, only then the part is lowered into it. If it is not possible to immediately dip the entire metal part, then it is allowed to add a little water.

Applying a protective layer with alkali requires compliance with all the rules, including preparatory ones. The metal is pre-cleaned of dirt and debris, and then treated with solvents that degrease the surface. Without this item, the paint will not adhere well to the surface and will quickly begin to break down.

There are strange and at the same time amazing ways to blacken with butter or egg white. Both methods are effective and great for doing this procedure at home. Oil burnishing, for example, is a cost effective and interesting method of blackening steel. To do this, olive oil is applied to the surface of the metal, which has previously been slightly polished with fine sandpaper. Next, the part is heated on fire with an alcohol lamp until the color changes. The remaining oil is removed with a simple rag. To add shine to the product further polished and polished.

Using egg white is an equally effective way. First of all, the processed steel is washed in a soda solution and dried. Then the surface is covered with a thin layer of whipped proteins and so the part remains to lie for two days in a dark place. After this time, the metal is heated to a red-hot state and a reaction occurs that turns it into a black saturated color. The hotter the part is heated, the faster and better the burnishing process proceeds, but it is impossible to bend. Using this method in practice, it is easy to find a middle ground that does not reduce quality, but increases the speed of work.

Oxidation of various alloys

Burnishing of aluminum alloys helps to protect the surface from the spread of corrosion. A thin layer of protection staunchly resists any external factors that affect the painted surface. Usage chemical compositions is the most popular method for applying such a coating.

The chemical method is an immersion in a pre-prepared composition for bluing, which includes components such as:

Sodium dichromate and chromic anhydrite.
Potassium hexacyanoferrate, chromic anhydride and sodium fluoride.
Carbonic and chromic acid sodium.
Chromium anhydride and sodium fluorosilicate.

All components are kneaded with a liquid and, according to the instructions, are applied to the aluminum surface to be painted, where they enter into a chemical reaction on their own or by heating.

The process of blackening metal at home is not all, because after obtaining the required color, aluminum must be processed to consolidate the result. First of all, after removing the parts, all the liquid must drain and only then the product is lowered into nitric acid. An oxide film is fixed, which will only enhance its qualities during drying at an average temperature. It is difficult to say exactly the oxidation time, because the black color can be different, and it depends on how long the part is in the chemical solution. After carrying out all the procedures, the surface is painted with special dyes for the treatment of blued surfaces.

Anodizing aluminum parts

This method has gained the greatest popularity in the processing of aluminum surfaces. The point is to cover the entire area with a thin layer of passive insulation using simple components and tools.

The first step is to prepare a saturated electrolyte solution, similar to the steel chromium plating procedure. Anodizing involves treating aluminum in a container of liquid that receives current. A simple battery of average power is suitable as a current source.

Aluminum parts, before being dipped in an electrolyte solution, should be degreased with solvents or a simple washing powder. A bluish-gray coating appears in the container when exposed to current, if the degreasing of the product was successful. Next, the aluminum surface is wiped with a solution of potassium permanganate, which removes plaque and makes the surface shiny and smooth. For further staining, aniline paints of any color are suitable.

Although the process is considered the easiest method available, it still requires experience and practice. Therefore, the first time it is better to practice on the working part of the ax or other unnecessary materials.

The protective layer that appears after bluing is able to make the surface durable and resistant to any mechanical and chemical influences, which is especially useful for constantly operating equipment or machines. Chemical oxidation of steel at home is carried out without the help of specialists, if you follow all the rules of the step-by-step instructions.

In the room where the painting will take place, artificial ventilation must be provided, because small debris can fly in through open windows or doors, which will settle on the metal surface just in the process of blackening. It is important to remember about the ingress of dust on the product if polishing or grinding is carried out in the immediate vicinity of the drying part. The temperature in the room should be room temperature and constant regardless of the season outside.

Painters have long learned how to burn metal at home, so you should follow the established procedure and change it only if it is incompatible with the material. Their rules are put into practice only after a long study and repeated application of the new burnishing technique.

The quality of the blackening of a steel surface depends on several conditions:

The stained area must be in good condition. It is impossible to get the perfect bluing effect if the metal is rusty, has obvious deformations, holes, fractures, etc.
Any chemical compound comes into contact with the cleaned surface and therefore any dirt particles must be removed.
The quality also depends on the structure of the metal.
When all requirements for mechanical and heat treatment are met.

These are the main conditions that have a direct effect on the bonding of the chemical mixture to the steel or aluminum surface.

The complexity of painting various parts mainly depends on their size and shape. Small items, weapon elements and machine parts can be easily covered with a black color at home using a simple faience, glass or porcelain container. It will be problematic to paint large objects without the use of special equipment. At a minimum, a small crane or overhead machine may be required to lower the metal evenly into boiling water or a solution through which current is passed.

Metal burnishing is a great way to protect it from external damage and at the same time give it a spicy and unique look. This method is especially suitable for painting car parts, weapons or public objects. You can do everything with your own hands, but it is important not to forget about the rules of the blueing process and safety.

Keeping a hunting weapon in order is the duty and concern of every owner. Grooming requires some effort, but for true lovers, this is not a waste of time. The ability to extend the service life, eliminate the appearance of corrosion, shells or other flaws on the gun barrels is of great importance for a successful hunt and own security owner. The traditional way to protect gunmetal from rust is bluing, which has to be done from time to time. Coating is a procedure that is technically simple, but requires considerable experience and skills. Many owners burn their weapons at home, which allows them to save time and get the highest quality protection. Sometimes this option is the only available coating method, so it is useful for every owner of a hunting rifle to have an idea about it. Consider what kind of procedure it is and how accessible it is for independent execution.

What is bluing?

Blueing is the application of a thin film of oxides to a pre-prepared surface of steel or cast iron parts, protecting against corrosion and giving the metal a bluish-black color. The thickness of the film is from 1 to 10 microns, the thicker it is, the deeper and darker the color of the coating. The classic method of bluing, which has been used for several hundred years, is to apply drying oil or linseed oil to the surface of the heated metal. As a result, a fine-grained coating appears, which has protective anti-corrosion properties and a pleasant blue-black color. It is customary to judge the heating temperature by color, although this method does not have great accuracy. The blue color, most suitable for bluing, appears when the steel is heated to 300-320 °.

The coating obtained by the traditional method did not differ in due strength, durability, and did not provide full protection against rust. Over time, other, more efficient methods of bluing metal have been developed. Most of them were created specifically for weapons, since the specifics of the service of weapons-grade metal did not allow other methods of finishing. One of the reasons for the need to use other coating methods was the task of refusing to heat the barrels of weapons, which had a negative effect on the state of the metal, its physical and chemical properties.

What is it used for?

Initially, the procedure was carried out solely for the purpose of protecting against rust, since there were no other types of coatings, and the operating conditions of the weapon largely contributed to the development of corrosive processes. Currently, in addition to protective functions, blueing is considered as a decorative coating that gives the weapon a traditional look. It is noteworthy that the appearance of a weapon among a large number of owners is considered one of the most important components of its performance, while protection against corrosion is not considered a problem at all. Nevertheless, all currently used types and methods of bluing provide a sufficient degree of protection of the metal surface from moisture. It must also be understood that any burnishing agent does not create a coating layer, but only contributes to the formation of a reaction, as a result of which this layer appears on the surface of the metal.

Types of bluing

There are the following types of metal burnishing:

alkaline. The steel surface heated to 135-150° is covered with a thin layer of alkaline solutions, causing an oxidation reaction and the creation of a protective film;
acidic. Produced by electrochemical or chemical methods using acid solutions;
thermal. It belongs to the traditional burnishing methods, although there are more modern technologies with the formation of protective films in vapors of ammonia-alcohol compounds or in molten salts.

There are a huge variety of protection methods, from complex multi-stage processes to simpler and faster procedures. All of them are characterized by a limited period of validity and do not provide absolute protection against moisture. The burnishing of the barrels of a hunting rifle must be carried out from time to time, the state of the weapon should be constantly monitored. It is impossible to consider the coating as a final solution to the problem, it is only a way to somewhat reduce the consequences of contact with water, to slow down the rate of rust formation.

What methods are available to perform at home?

Complex technological operations at home are not available, but simpler procedures are quite possible. There are several basic bluing methods:

cold;
hotter;
oxidation.

All three methods can be produced at home, for which you need to acquire all necessary materials and devices, as well as to study in detail and assimilate the physical and chemical essence of the processes. Without understanding the meaning of the operations performed, it is not recommended to get down to business. Any method consists of the same steps:

Cleaning, removal of old coating and rust.
Grinding, elimination of cavities, small scratches, dents.
Degreasing. The surface layer of fat is removed, for which various chemical reagents are used. After completing this stage, work with metal only with rubber gloves.
Actually bluing.
Finishing the metal surface.

The most important point (apart from the coating itself) is degreasing. After that, you can start bluing. Consider the possible options.

Cold bluing

The principle of cold bluing is simple - a special liquid is applied to a previously prepared surface. There are ready-made compositions:

raven 3;
parisian oxide;
rusty varnish.

The first two products are sold in stores. With the third, the matter is more complicated - it is stored in finished form for a long time, but it practically never happens on sale, there are only announcements about the sale of old stocks. Making rusty varnish is a complicated and dangerous procedure, since you have to mix 50 ml of hydrochloric and 54 ml of nitric acid, 30 g of steel or cast iron shavings, 20-30 g of scale.

All this dissolves in 1 liter of distilled water, and not immediately, but in stages:

A third of nitric acid and a third of chips with scale are carefully poured into hydrochloric acid. The reaction will start, you have to wait until it subsides.
Repeat the procedure and again wait for the end of the reaction.
Pour out the remnants of chips and scale, pour out the last third of nitric acid. Seal and hold for a day. Then add a liter of distilled water to the resulting brown solution, after which the rusty varnish is ready. You can use it for a long time, it becomes harmless and does not require special precautions.

The composition is applied with a regular brush. It is necessary to monitor the uniformity and penetration of liquids into all nooks and crannies of parts. After completion of work, the part is washed and polished.

hot bluing

This method is the easiest. First, the part is heated, after which it is immersed in oil (as an option, the surface is smeared with a swab dipped in oil). The best option (as it is believed) gives linseed or hemp oil, somewhat worse - drying oil. Mineral (machine) oil can also be used, but after it the results are considered the worst. Some masters advise to wait a while after applying the oil, then remove the excess. Others recommend baking the butter with a blowtorch, resulting in a dense black coating.

Definitely the best recipe does not exist, because each has its own conditions for heating and applying oil, different temperatures and other nuances that affect the result. Everyone agrees on one thing: after the first application of the oil and a short exposure, it should be carefully wiped off. This makes it possible to remove residual fats, which in any case cannot be dissolved by degreasing. Then the procedure of heating and applying the oil is repeated several times until the best result is achieved. At the same time, one must act carefully, since the properties of the metal change when heated, it is possible to release the trunks too much.

Oxidation

used for oxidation different kinds nitrates or nitrites. The procedure consists in immersing the prepared part in the mixture melt. The temperature is quite high, which serves as a serious limiting factor, since strong heating is contraindicated in critical parts, and gun barrels are. There are many recipes for oxidizing agents designed for different temperatures, but to obtain the maximum effect, it is necessary to have strictly dosed heating, which contributes to the optimal reaction mode. It is difficult to organize this at home, so self-burning by oxidation in artisanal conditions is rarely used.

Safety regulations

Performing the burnishing procedure at home creates a certain danger both for the master himself and for those around him. It must be understood that the term "home conditions" in itself is rather vague and can be interpreted in a wide range. Any method of coating involves the need for heating or the use of aggressive or active chemicals. Therefore, it is unlikely that it will be possible to perform work in an apartment, and at least it is not recommended. In addition, it is necessary to protect yourself, your loved ones, property from possible troubles to the maximum extent possible. At any moment, something can go wrong, and you need to be ready for it.

The use of chemicals requires high-quality ventilation and the use of personal protective equipment - goggles, rubber gloves and an apron, a respirator. All manipulations with acids are best done outdoors, being on the windward side. It is also necessary to monitor the direction of the wind so that chemical vapors are not carried into the house.

If heating is required, appropriate fire safety measures must be taken. Blueing using oil should be done with a high-quality hood or in the open air. The smoke produced by burning oil is harmful to health and can cause poisoning.

Self-bluing is sometimes the only available method for resurfacing a barrel. Therefore, when deciding to perform a procedure, it is necessary to study the technology, get as much information about it as possible and carefully consider the course of action. Only after that you can start preparing materials and tools, choosing a workplace. The result depends on the accuracy and preparedness of the master, the thoroughness of the implementation of all stages of work.

Blueing (blackening) of metal, steel is a surface coating with a special layer. It gives the product a certain color: black, blue or another. With this processing, a beautiful toning appears. However, the method is widely used due to its practical benefits: objects covered with a special film are well protected from corrosion. The process has long been widespread in industry. Some use bluing at home.

Blueing methods

There are several ways similar processing. In industry, bluing is carried out by changing the structural composition of the surface. Application - in a special way. At home, using such technologies is very expensive or simply impossible.

However, there are ways to blacken steel at home. This does not require industrial equipment. Everything you need can be found in the store. These methods are presented below.

hot method

The hot method involves exposure high temperature. First, the metal is tarred, then fired, for example, with a blowtorch.

The principle is as simple as possible and has been used since ancient times. Even an ordinary kitchen stove is enough for work. Under the influence of temperature, the upper layer interacts with oxygen.

Heating should be carried out slowly, gradually bringing up to 400 ° C. The surface becomes first brown and then black. You will need oil: olive or gun oil. It is important to calculate its amount and not overdo it. Otherwise, there will be stains.

The method at home is used less often than others because of the technology. Although it has advantages:

the protective effect lasts longer than with the cold method;
harmless to health;
requires little expense.

Before flameless firing, it is desirable to treat the product with a special composition, which includes:

sulfur;
grease.

The ratio of components is one to twenty, respectively. Apply as thin a layer as possible. As a result, the protective surface is very even.

You can check the quality of bluing in a simple way. Dip the brush in plain water and brush over the treated surface. You should get a film, but not a drop.

cold way

Another processing method is cold bluing. It is often used if products cannot be subjected to serious loads. It takes a little time and also does not require a lot of money.

The bottom line is to cover the surface with a special solution, for example, Parisian oxide. Usually applied with a brush. For greater effect, the product is immersed in a solution. After the procedure, the product:

Wash.
Wipe with a rag. It must be moistened with alcohol.

The use of oxidizers

There is a method using molten oxidizers:

nitrates;
nitrites.

Such blackening of metal at home involves immersion in the melt. The product is in it until the surface acquires characteristic color. When working, it is worth remembering that the listed substances are hazardous to health. They can be replaced with the following solutions:

hot salt;
alkaline.

Some Features

Burning steel at home is not difficult. Oxidizing agents are also used for processing other metal products:

cast iron;
copper, which acquire an intense red color.

There are a number of things to keep in mind:

If the products are heat-sensitive or hardened, then it is better not to touch them. Burning will degrade performance.
To complete the process, do not forget to wash the product special means. After drying, oil lubrication is sometimes required.
It is not difficult to find the necessary substances in stores, for example, saltpeter, citric acid.
It is also possible to remove blackening. To do this, you need a special pencil.

Important preparation:

Before starting, you need to clean the surface and sand it.
Degrease with a special solution.
Don't forget rubber gloves to protect your hands. The processed product must not be touched.
Create ventilation, exhaust.
Choose a vessel with suitable properties. The volume should allow to drown the workpiece completely. A material that is not afraid of the substances used is suitable: glass, porcelain, stainless steel, faience.

As for color, for some products it can also be important. You can get a different color: from yellow to black, its shades. Therefore, strictly speaking, blackening and blueing are not the same thing.

To achieve the desired color, you will have to further clarify the components of the solutions or pay attention to the heat treatment mode. For example, one way is as follows:

Copper nitrate (70 g) and alcohol denatured alcohol (30 g) are taken.
Salt is heated until it melts.
Add denatured alcohol.
The product is coated with this mixture.
Heat up until the desired shade is obtained. The color will change.

Burning Secrets

There are many recipes for bluing. Every master prefers his, someone might have tricks. In ancient times, recipes for blued steel were often kept secret. Today you can find various recipes for every taste.

Cold bluing

You can give the following example of cold bluing at home:

A liter of water (distilled) is taken, two types of acid: 30% hydrochloric (4 g), 69% nitric (13.5 g). Ferric chloride trivalent (170 g) and copper sulfate divalent (4 g) are also added.
The mixture is treated with a surface and left for a while. The longer, the better.
Rust is removed with water vapor and a brush.
Everything is repeated until the result is desired. Some do it up to 10-20 times.

Recipe with oxidizer

An example is the following recipe for an alkaline solution:

You will need caustic soda (400 g), sodium nitrate (10 g), water (600 ml).
The mixture should work for 30 minutes or longer.
Then the surface is well washed, dried, slightly oiled. If the alkali is not washed off completely, there will be a plaque.

Care must be taken during operation. Hot substances and chemicals can damage health or damage property. It is important not to forget about the correct selection of containers, suitable clothing and basic safety precautions.

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Blackening steel at home - corrosion protection methods + Video

In order to protect iron from corrosion, burnishing is actively used today, both factory and artisanal, which is divided into different types, including blackening of carbon and low alloy steel at home.

1 What does metal bluing give you?

Most grades of steel tend to rust, corrosion centers occur at the slightest contact with water, if the surface is not then wiped with an oiled rag. Even with high humidity, steel can rust very quickly. For the most part, the metal is covered with anti-corrosion paint, either by spraying or brushing. But this is not suitable for threaded connections, as well as for moving parts. Therefore, burnishing is often used to protect against corrosion, which is also called blackening or blueing of steel and, if we turn to technical terms, oxidation.

In other words, conditions are created for the formation of an iron oxide film on the metal surface, the thickness of which can vary from 1 to 10 micrometers, depending on the processing method. Blueing according to the type of effect on the metal is divided into thermal, acidic and alkaline, that is, in the last two versions, the metal is immersed in the appropriate solution. When heated, the so-called tint colors change on the surface of the steel, approximately the same happens during galvanic treatment in an acid or alkaline bath. You just need to select the desired oxidation color and stop the effect on the steel surface on it.

The change in tint colors is associated with an increase in the thickness of the oxidized metal layer. The thinnest film is formed at the stage of the appearance of a yellow color, as its thickness grows, brown, cherry, purple, and then blue and gray colors will replace each other. But the latter does not mean at all that you have come close to what is called blackening. After all, bluing covers almost all colors of tarnish, starting with brown.

2 Steel blueing - recipes of varying degrees of complexity

With prolonged heating, after the glow of the metal passes the white stage, and then yellow, brown and purple, the surface of the steel will turn into a beautiful light blue color, gradually changing to dark. It is on heat treatment that the simplest blueing method is based, and it is with it that we will begin the list. existing methods oxidation. To obtain high-quality bluing at home, you will need a forge, preferably with automatic blowing, in extreme cases, you can use an ordinary metal barrel filled with half chopped brushwood.

We fill a metal box to the size of the part with fine birch charcoal and place it in a well-heated forge or in a barrel with burning chips. When the coal heats up and begins to smolder, we put the steel part wiped with vinegar and dried into it, after which we follow the stages of its heating. At the very beginning of the appearance of blue, we take out the workpiece and cool it slightly in air, while cleaning it with soft charcoal. Then put it back in the box. By repeating these manipulations several times, and at the end bringing the heat to a clear blue, you will get a strong oxide film.

Another way is with the use of a special solution and without heat treatment. For it, you need to get only 2 reagents: 2.5 grams of potassium hexacyanoferrate, popularly referred to as red blood salt and being a powerful oxidizing agent, as well as one and a half chlorine iron. Both ingredients dissolve perfectly, so feel free to fill each in a separate container with 0.5 liters of water, after which we combine the resulting liquids into a single mixture. It is in it that we place the steel part, which must be given corrosion resistance. When the metal surface reaches the desired color, we remove the part from the bath and dry it.

There are more complex methods of blueing, but we will turn to those that are simpler. Oxidation can be carried out not only with solutions, but also with melts of various substances. In particular, a dark blue color can be imparted to a steel product by immersing it in molten sulfur, into which a small amount of soot is previously kneaded after the transition to a liquid state. The second option is a melt of saltpeter, obtained by heating it to a temperature of over 320 degrees. If a steel product is kept in such a bath, it will be covered with a uniform dark blue film.

3 Steel burnishing in the brown spectrum

In some cases, it is quite enough to achieve the formation of a brown oxide film on the surface of the steel part, the shades of which can be different, depending on the substances used. The simplest recipe is based on the same ingredient that we considered earlier, namely, we need 1.5 chlorine iron in the amount of 100 grams, as well as a kilogram of olive oil. We mix these components and get a paste, which should evenly cover the steel product. Then, after a few hours, the surface is polished with a metal brush-brush. The cycle is repeated several times.

Another option is somewhat similar to the previous one. But for the oxidation process at home, in addition to olive oil in the amount of 0.5 kilograms, you will need the same amount of antimony trichloride. The second ingredient, in fact, also refers to oils, therefore, by mixing the components, you will get a kind of ointment. We cover it with a steel product and leave it for a day. After the specified period, we wipe the metal surface with a woolen patch and again apply the ointment for a day. The final step will again be rubbing with wool and polishing with a waxed brush.

You can further simplify the composition, with which a brown anti-corrosion film is applied to steel. To do this, it is enough to make a solution for immersing a metal product in it for a certain time. You only need to stock up on one and a half chlorine iron, which is added in an amount of 150 grams per liter of water, or 0.2 kilograms is measured and mixed with a liter of 90% alcohol. In such a bath, it is enough to dip a steel product several times, while immersing, watching the change in the color of the surface.

4 Recipes for oxidizing steel in noble gray and black colors

Steel that acquires various shades of gray as a result of bluing looks beautiful, while a sufficiently strong film of oxidized metal is obtained that protects against rust. You can get a color in this spectrum in a simple way, which, however, is available only for small products. You will need 70 grams of copper nitrate and 30 grams of denatured alcohol, the first reagent refers to salts, the second is alcohol.

It is better to make the solution by heating the salt until it melts with the addition of denatured alcohol after removing the container from the fire (it is desirable that it be a chemical porcelain cup). We coat the steel product with the composition and heat it over the fire, putting it on a sheet of tin. The following complex recipe is suitable for oxidizing metal to gray. This process, with a considerable duration, can turn into cold blackening of ordinary and stainless steel, which is easiest to do at home.

The components needed are the following: 24 percent hydrochloric acid- 120 grams, 90% alcohol and water - 100 grams each, sublimate - 40 grams and 2 times less bismuth chloride with copper chloride. We mix acid and water, add alcohol and divide the resulting liquid into 3 equal parts. Pour the last 3 components related to salts separately into each part of the solution and then mix everything in one container. A steel product is immersed in the resulting bath for half an hour, after which it is removed and boiled in clean water. If necessary, repeat the process.

Attention, for your own safety, pour acid into water, but not vice versa, in order to avoid a violent reaction, accompanied by splashing out of the reagent.

And finally, the recipe directly for blackening. In fact, an excellent result can be achieved only by smearing a steel product with linseed oil, wax or animal fat and calcining it well in a fire. As a result of firing, a stable black film forms on the metal surface. However, it is much more efficient to use the preliminary immersion of steel in a bath with the following solution: 100 grams of copper sulfate are placed per liter of water and 10 grams of ammonia are added. Having coated the cleaned and degreased metal with this composition, and calcined in the fire, you will first get a black-brown film, and after repeated dipping and heating - black.

tutmet.ru

Many people still believe that bluing metal at home is unrealistic to do. We hasten to rejoice that this is not the case. In this article, we will not only talk about burnishing technology, but also tell you about different ways to ensure that the workpiece is gray, blue or black.

Why is it needed

By bluing, two problems are solved at once:

After processing, the metal has a more attractive appearance.
The problem with metal corrosion is solved - the blued part does not rust.

Burnishing process

During burnishing, a film of iron oxide forms on the part. Its thickness depends on the applied technology and can be in the range from 1 to 10 micrometers.

There are several ways to process metal:

Alkaline.
Acid.
Thermal.

alkaline method

In alkaline solutions, burnishing is carried out with oxidizers at a temperature of 130 – 150°C. The basis of alkaline oxidation is the process of iron oxidation.

When boiling, the alkaline solution emits a very unpleasant odor, so it is better not to work with it in the apartment (or in any other enclosed space).

To prepare the solution, it is best to use a stainless steel container.
Pour 100 ml into this container. water and dissolve 120 gr. caustic soda and 30 gr. sodium nitrate. Stirring is carried out until the solid precipitate disappears.
The resulting mixture must be heated to 130 – 150°C.
The item is immersed in a boiling solution, but it should not touch the walls of the container.
After 20 minutes, the metal will turn black, after which our part must be removed and washed with distilled water.
After the part has dried, it must be lubricated with machine oil, and then wiped dry.
The surface is smooth, wear-resistant and does not require additional polishing.

When bluing large parts in this way, it can be a problem to find a stainless container of the right size.

acid method

Acid bluing is performed in acidic solutions by chemical or electrochemical methods.

If the part is rusty, then it is necessary to clean it with an emery cloth. You can speed up the cleaning process when using a grinder with a metal brush.
Now you need a cleaning solution. It can be ethyl alcohol with kerosene or kerosene. You can also use sodium triphosphate.
The part is immersed in the solution for 15 minutes, after which it is washed with running water and dried (or wiped).

While the part is drying, prepare a solution for acid bluing. You will need the following components:

water - 1 l.
tannic acid - 2 gr.
tartaric acid - 2 gr.

Now let's start bluing the metal part.

The components are mixed and heated up to 150°C.
The part is lowered into the container and left for 15 minutes, after which it must be rinsed with running water.
You can finally get rid of the solution on the part by dipping it in boiling water.
The final stage of bluing will be the immersion of the part for 1 hour in machine oil, after which it must be wiped and can be used for its intended purpose.

The acid bluing method can also be performed in a cold way. This will require Iron(III) Chloride or "Rusty Lacquer".

thermal method

The thermal bluing technology is the oldest, and probably the simplest. The essence of the method is to heat a metal product in the open air until the oxygen contained in the air enters into a chemical reaction with the top layer of the part. The stronger the heating, the darker the part becomes, because the oxidation process takes place at a greater depth.

With oil

The method under consideration is simple for its use at home. We will need the following ingredients:

Machine oil - 500 ml.
Metal container for oil.
Tool for holding the part (pliers, pliers, pincers, etc.).
Gas-burner. If it is not there, then you can use a gas stove or a building hair dryer.
Paper napkins or rags.

Parts must be laid on a non-combustible surface (brick, for example).
The hair dryer must be set to high heat.
The part must be heated as much as possible.
The heated metal, holding with tongs, must be lowered into the bath so that it is completely immersed in oil.
After removing the part from the oil, it is placed on a paper towel to absorb the oil.
The part must be heated again and lowered into oil - the process is repeated 3-4 times.

Each bluing cycle makes the part darker.

The bluing process described will not make the part black. In addition, the coating is not durable and can be easily damaged. The technology is more suitable for rust protection than for decorative purposes.

How to make steel blue

The technology of metal blueing is more complex and requires not only more effort, but also the availability of some equipment. We'll need a bugle. It is very good if it has an automatic blower. It is clear that not everyone has a forge, therefore, in its absence, you can use an ordinary metal barrel, half filling it with chopped brushwood.

So, we have a part, now we need a metal box for its size.

It must be filled with fine birch charcoal and placed in a thoroughly heated hearth (or in a barrel).
The workpiece must be wiped with vinegar and left to dry.
You should wait until the coal in the container begins to smolder.
A blank is placed in smoldering coals and left there until a light blue appears.
As soon as the part begins to turn blue, it must be pulled out and cleaned with soft charcoal.
The part is placed back in its place in the box and, after changing the color of the blue, is again pulled out and cleaned.
The work is repeated until the part acquires the desired color.

It is important to monitor the heating process and pull out the part in time, otherwise its color will change to gray.

Blue without heat treatment

You can achieve the desired shade of blue without heat treatment - using a special solution.

To do the job, you need 2 reagents and water:

Potassium hexacyanoferrate (red blood salt) - 2.5 g.
One and a half chloride iron - 2.5 gr.
Water - 1 l.

Take 2 jars of 0.5 l and dissolve each ingredient in them separately. There will be no problems with this, since water is an ideal solvent for them. After that, the solutions are mixed, and a steel part is placed in the resulting mixture. You need to carefully monitor the oxidation process. When the desired shade of blue is reached, the part is removed from the solution and dried.

2 more ways

In order to make the part dark blue, you can melt sulfur by mixing a small amount of soot into it. The part is placed in this composition, and the process of color change is controlled.
Heating saltpeter over 320 ° C, bring it to a liquid state. Further, as in the previous method.

There are many more ways to burnish metal, thanks to which you can achieve a beautiful and durable color of the part, but not all of them are suitable for use at home. We tried to describe the most simple, and, if possible, safe.

Any of the methods described above for bluing metal can be harmful to human health! It is necessary to take care of safety measures in advance, remembering that hot metal can cause thermal burns, and reagents can cause chemical burns. In addition, reagents can cause fumes poisoning. Many reagents are flammable and should not be heated, so be extremely careful and follow the instructions carefully.

The simplest ways

Most housewives have vinegar, tea and citric acid at home. And lovers of Coca-Cola can not only wash off the tar from their car, but also use it for bluing metal.

We will not describe each method, since they are almost the same and are most often used for blackening knives and other kitchen utensils. Let us describe the method of burnishing a knife.

So, we need any of these ingredients:

Table vinegar.
Citric acid - 1 sachet.
Coca-Cola (need to release gas in advance).
Black tea (brewing).

Now about the technology of blackening metal.

The knife must be degreased and poured with boiling water so that it is hot.
Any of the listed liquids is collected in plastic bottle with the neck cut off so that only the handle remains outside.
The knife must be shaken frequently so that there are no air bubbles on the blade.
Periodically, the knife should be removed from the liquid and wipe the blade, removing oxides in this way.
When the metal becomes the desired color, the burnishing process stops.

The cover is not very durable. If desired, it can be removed and reapplied.

In your comments, you can talk about your method of bluing at home, sharing your opinion and impressions of the work done.

Video

This video shows how knives are etched in different substances:

See how blackening of metal is performed using bluing fluid:

www.stroitelstvosovety.ru

Cold burnishing of a knife at home from metal or steel, how to make blackening with clover: video

Burning of metal is one of the most popular ways to paint a metal product today, which aims to decorate any edged weapon, such as a knife, with decorations, or to simply prevent rust and corrosion on a steel thing.

The most common steel burnishing methods are:

Chemical method, when the cleaning and coloring of the product is achieved due to the action of various chemicals on the metal.
A mechanical method in which a powder or paint is applied to a product using methods such as enameling, spraying or hammering.

Due to the fact that the chemical method of bluing is simpler than the mechanical method for home use, it more often used by amateurs for applying blackening to a steel product, exquisite pattern or unusual coloring.

The procedure for chemical burnishing of steel at home step by step (general scheme)

Before starting work, the surface of the object must be cleaned of any contaminants, including invisible ones.
Next, you need to degrease the work surface. For this purpose, the product must be immersed in special solvents that can effectively remove oil. These bluing fluids include ethyl chloride, ether and gasoline. If your object that you want to burnish is too massive, then it will be better to degrease it in a bathtub filled with a caustic soda solution.
After that, you must, without touching your knife, gun or other product with your hands, place it in a container with paint. Coloring is done by immersion.

The most common chemical bluing methods

alkaline method

This is one of the best homemade metal burnishing options you can do yourself. Before you start you will need:

Protective equipment such as face mask and gloves.
Water.
sodium nitrate.
Digital scales.
Sodium hydroxide.
Container made of stainless steel.

The burnishing procedure is done as follows: during the execution of the work, the product will boil in alkaline solution, that's why prerequisite the success of your undertaking will be maintaining the temperature regime necessary for the successful operation. In other words, you must ensure that the liquid is constantly in a boiling state. The procedure is carried out within 1.5 hours, during which you need to be inseparably close to the product, periodically adding water to the container as needed.

In the next step, the item to be blued needs to be degreased to remove any fat or oil that may adversely affect the resulting color products. Complete immersion of the object in the solvent helps to protect against possible color differences. And at the last stage, the fat-free product, for example, a knife, must be washed with soap.

Oil bluing

This method is characterized by low monetary costs and is available for implementation at home. To complete it, you will need the following:

First you need to polish the surface of the product sandpaper. This is necessary in order to remove various roughness and irregularities from metal, which can spoil the appearance of the item after bluing. Then, thickly smearing the surface with olive oil, you need to start heating steel or metal over an alcohol lamp. In this case, it is impossible to specify any exact firing time, the main criterion for the successful completion of the operation is to make sure that the product has acquired an even black color. After that, allow the item to cool to room temperature and remove excess oil with a tissue or cloth.

Blueing with egg white

An unusual, but nonetheless effective and intriguing way of bluing, which is easy to do at home. You will need:

Egg white.
Soda solution.
Source of fire.

First of all, you need to prepare the surface for blackening. To do this, the product is washed in a soda solution, dried and then covered with egg white, which was previously beaten. Further, it is necessary to provide proper conditions for the complete drying of the surface. To fulfill this purpose, the item is placed for 2 days in a dark and cool place. Examining it after two days, you may notice that the egg white is firmly stuck to the metal. Now, in order to remove the protein from the surface, you need to heat the metal on the fire source until it turns red. After the product has cooled and the egg white has crumbled, you will find that your item has acquired a rich black color.

How to burnish steel surfaces?

Please note that to answer the question of whether the bluing of your product will be of high quality or not, you can only analyze the following criteria:

How well did you clean the product before the procedure.
What is the structure of the metal layer on its surface.
What is the condition of the surface of the steel to be blackened.
Is the result of preliminary thermal or mechanical processing of the product positive?

In order for the results of bluing to please your eyes in all cases, in the process of preparation and directly during the blackening work, you need to follow a few simple rules. First, carry out this procedure only in t areas with good ventilation. Since chemical bluing involves the use of numerous mixtures that can be harmful to human health, be sure to take care of the fresh air supply to the workplace.

Secondly, equip the room with the necessary appliances and fixtures and take care to take out any combustible, flammable and explosive substances and objects. Thirdly, keep the blueing room clean, as the dust that has settled on the product can ruin the result of your work.

Fourth, stick to the already proven sequence of actions. If you notice that the steps you have taken are not conducive to success in blackening the metal you are interested in, change your steps by first testing the new items on samples. Fifth, do not try to drop large or massive objects at home. The larger the working surface, the more difficult it is to get the desired result without the use of professional tools. Sixth, do not forget about safety and take care of purchasing a set of protective equipment for yourself and your loved ones.

Additional processing of blued metal

After finishing the painting of a metal product, check if the surface of the product has a dark or dull appearance. If you find this, then, as a rule, this is caused by the fact that the object was poorly polished, and roughness remained invisible to the eye on it. In such cases, the surface is usually re-sanded and polished, then the metal is rinsed in water and allowed to dry.

What to do in the event that you want to give the metal an extra shine, you want it to dazzlingly shine when viewed under a light source? For polishing large or long metal work cloth or suede is usually used, for small things you can try using a grinding wheel. After completion of polishing work, you need to fix the result. To do this, paint the surface of the product with varnish.

How to get a faded color?

To achieve a run-away color on the surface of your product, you need to know very well at what temperature it appears and how long it takes to fix it on the metal. Main condition: flame firing must occur for a strictly defined time. Therefore, if you want to ennoble your product with a tarnished color, choose a small item, because it will be almost impossible to evenly heat a large area of \u200b\u200bmetal on a gas stove or blowtorch.

As soon as you have achieved the appearance of the desired color, immediately remove the product from the fire and let it cool. Then rub it with oil to fix the color.

instrument.guru

oil at home, how to burn metal, chemical oxidation

Features of metal coloring

All paint application options are divided into two types:

mechanical;
chemical.

In the mechanical application of paint, various powders are used, which are sprayed, sprayed, hammered in using special tools. This option does not differ in quality, beauty or uniqueness, but is appreciated by motorists due to its low cost. Besides, mechanical staining easy to do at any service station or even with your own hands, if you have the necessary equipment.

Applying a paint coating is not enough if you want the metal to acquire an elegant look and shine of the surface and remain so even with frequent use. A similar problem is solved by oxidizing steel.

This procedure includes rubbing the surface with mixtures such as:

nitric acid mixed with alcohol, water and copper sulphate in the form of sawdust;
acid ink-nut color, including iron and antimony;
silver nitrate with the addition of water;
olive oil with antimony chloride.

After applying one of these mixtures to a metal surface, it is subjected to heat treatment. The result of the work will depend mainly on how well the part was cleaned of grease, dust and dirt.

Do-it-yourself blackening methods

A simple, cheap and safe method refers to the processing of metal with an alkaline material. For bluing with alkali you will need to additionally find and prepare:

sodium hydroxide;
sodium nitrate;
water;
digital scales;
protective clothing.

The protection list must include gloves, boots and a respirator. Old clothes will do as the rest of the protection. Some formulations require saltpeter or phosphoric acid.

Oxidation of various alloys

Burnishing of aluminum alloys helps to protect the surface from the spread of corrosion. A thin layer of protection staunchly resists any external factors that affect the painted surface. The use of chemical compositions is the most popular method for applying such a coating.

The chemical method is an immersion in a pre-prepared composition for bluing, which includes components such as:

Sodium dichromate and chromic anhydrite.
Potassium hexacyanoferrate, chromic anhydride and sodium fluoride.
Carbonic and chromic acid sodium.
Chromium anhydride and sodium fluorosilicate.

All components are kneaded with a liquid and, according to the instructions, are applied to the aluminum surface to be painted, where they enter into a chemical reaction on their own or by heating.

Anodizing aluminum parts

This method has gained the greatest popularity in the processing of aluminum surfaces. The point is to cover the entire area with a thin layer of passive insulation using simple components and tools.

Burnishing of stainless steel

The quality of the blackening of a steel surface depends on several conditions:

The stained area must be in good condition. It is impossible to get the perfect bluing effect if the metal is rusty, has obvious deformations, holes, fractures, etc.
Any chemical compound comes into contact with the cleaned surface and therefore any dirt particles must be removed.
The quality also depends on the structure of the metal.
When all requirements for mechanical and heat treatment are met.

These are the main conditions that have a direct effect on the bonding of the chemical mixture to the steel or aluminum surface.

chebo.pro

in saltpeter, clover, rusty varnish, pencil

There is an erroneous opinion that it is impossible to burnish metals at home, and this technical operation, in any case, should be performed only in production.

Currently, there are several different ways in which you can effectively deal with rusty metal at home.

This type of processing is necessary in order to not only make the metal more attractive.

With it, the protective properties against corrosion are significantly increased.

Do-it-yourself burnishing steel at home is more simple ways metal processing, in which improvised means are used.

At its core, this method of dealing with rusty metal involves applying a variety of coatings to the treated surface, which form a thin protective film on it.

At home, this can be done using citric or phosphoric acid, as well as using varnish or oil, from which a certain solution is prepared.

Of course, industrial technology allows for better processing, but some methods for dealing with rusty metal at home show quite good results.

Features of bluing metals

Under industrial conditions, the blackening of the upper layer of the metal is removed by changing its structural composition.

In addition, a protective coating is applied in a special way, which provides high-quality protection against corrosion.

Using industrial methods of dealing with rusty metal at home is not only impossible, but also economically unprofitable.

Self-hot or cold coating is carried out by applying some special compounds to the metal surface, which not only remove its blackening, but also form a thin protective film.

A bluing agent can be purchased at any specialized store, and in a fairly wide range.

So, a sufficiently high-quality result can be achieved by bluing in saltpeter, in addition, a special pencil for bluing allows you to effectively remove blackening from metal.

In some cases, you can use phosphoric or citric acid, as well as prepare a solution for treating stainless steel in oil.

Regardless of which technology - orthophosphoric, citric acid or oil - is chosen to combat rusty metal, the whole process can be divided into several separate stages.

First of all, a thorough grinding and cleaning of the metal surface is performed. After that, degreasing is carried out, for which a special solution is used.

It should be noted, depending on the detail, its specifications, as well as the chosen method for bluing, certain nuances and subtleties may arise, however, the general algorithm of actions always remains unchanged.

It should also be remembered that after degreasing the treated surface, it should not be touched, which means that all work is best done with rubber gloves.

Basic processing rules

Blueing is essentially a chemical treatment of metal surfaces, in which not only blackening is removed, but also a protective layer is applied.

These works are classified as hazardous, and therefore must be carried out in compliance with certain rules and under special conditions.

Since the solution that is used for bluing contains chemically active substances with acid, in without fail special containers should be used for it.

In addition, such processing of metal surfaces also implies mechanical work, which means that it is necessary to have on hand appropriate means to protect the eyes and skin.

You should also perform metal processing in a room that is equipped with a ventilation system or has a powerful hood.

In the video posted above, you can see how such processing of metal surfaces should be carried out.

When working with acid and other chemicals, use only those containers that are made of faience, as well as porcelain or glass.

Immediately before the start of bluing, a uniform and high-quality cleaning of the surface should be carried out, as well as completely remove traces of dirt and grease from it.

In this case, sandpaper, powdered pumice, as well as fine-grained sand can be used as a processing material.

It should be remembered that the liquid in its composition contains a variety of chemical elements that, if used improperly, can harm the product.

You also need to make sure that the solution used does not get on the skin or in the eyes, as in this case you can get serious injury or burns.

Treatment by chemical oxidation

Most often, metal surface treatment is carried out using chemical oxidation.

This method is quite effective and, subject to technology, allows to achieve High Quality end result.

This method of metal bluing is based on the ability of the metal to oxidize.

At the preliminary stage, it is necessary to perform mechanical processing of the surface of the workpiece, as well as completely degrease it.

After that, you should properly prepare the appropriate solution.

For these purposes, you should take a container of a certain size, which must be made of porcelain.

After that, the solution should be thoroughly mixed and ensure that all components are dissolved in it.

The resulting mixture should be heated to a temperature of about one hundred and forty degrees Celsius, and the workpiece should be immersed in it for about thirty minutes.

After the specified time has elapsed, the part is removed from the solution and washed thoroughly with distilled water.

The metal surface treated in this way will acquire a pronounced black tint with a blue tint.

If burnishing was performed correctly and in accordance with the technology, then the metal will become smooth and do not require subsequent polishing.

On the video, which is posted in the section, you can see how a metal surface is treated at home using a chemical solution.

Using rusty varnish

Many people use a method for burnishing metal, which is called "burning with rusty metal." With it, you can achieve a flat and smooth surface at minimal financial cost.

Its essence lies in the placement of the workpiece in a corrosive chemical environment.

As a result of such burnishing, red and black iron oxides appear on the metal surface.

To remove red plaque, a brush with hard metal bristles is used, while black oxide remains. It should be noted that this processing method is quite lengthy, but effective.

In any case, to begin with, the metal is mechanically processed and degreased, and only after that the product is placed in a special solution.

The liquid for bluing with rusty varnish is prepared in special porcelain containers, and it is imperative to use skin protection products.

The solution in this case is prepared on the basis of hydrochloric acid.

It must be poured in a small amount into the prepared container and mixed with iron rust, metal filings and nitric acid.

After that, water and ordinary vodka must be added to the mixture in equal amounts.

The solution must stand for a certain time, after which it must be drained to remove scale and precipitated salt.

Other bluing methods

Very often, a special bluing pencil is used for metal processing.

Before using a blueing pencil, the metal surface is mechanically treated, after which it is thoroughly degreased.

Such burnishing of steel, subject to all technological requirements quite effective and allows you to get a smooth and even surface. Also very often get rid of corrosion with varnish.

As in all other cases, before treating the surface with varnish, it is treated by mechanical action.

When working with varnish or pencil, you must use special protective equipment so that the product used does not come into contact with the skin.

You can also perform processing by painting the metal surface with a solution called "Clover".

This method of staining with Clover is quite effective with minor corrosion of the metal surface.

In this case, it is necessary to perform the most thorough staining of the treated surface with Clover, and several times.

The composition of Clover is sold in special tubes of small sizes. The price of Clover also varies from place to place.

Clover is a gel in consistency. The main advantage of using Clover is its ease of use.

It is enough to sand the part, then degrease it with gasoline, and then apply Clover. After a few minutes, when the gel is absorbed, rinse off the residue with water.

It is best to burn badly damaged metal with a solution of saltpeter.

To prepare a solution of saltpeter, only stainless utensils should be used, while the skin must be protected from the mixture.

As a result of bluing with saltpeter, the metal surface acquires a pleasant reddish tint, which is complemented by a slightly bluish tint.

A solution of saltpeter is prepared for bluing from one liter of water and not a large number sodium nitrate, as well as caustic caustic.

This mixture has a rather pungent pungent odor, and therefore it is better to use a respirator when working with it.

Aluminum surface treatment

The method of bluing aluminum is called anodizing and allows you to give the product an aesthetic appearance and completely remove traces of corrosion.

Currently, many different parts are made of aluminum, including those that are prone to corrosion and require cleaning by bluing.

As a rule, various acids are not suitable for processing aluminum, since in this case the part can be deformed and damaged.

In some cases, active acids can be used for aluminum, but only in small quantities, diluted with plenty of water.

The surface of aluminum can be blued with varnish, but only in a certain way.

A solution prepared on the basis of a small amount of sulfuric acid, abundantly diluted in water, is quite effective in bluing aluminum.

The tool must be placed in a special dish, and then placed in it a lead plate connected to a twelve volt battery.

After bubbles form in the solution, an aluminum part is placed in it for a certain time. After that, the aluminum part is taken out of the solution and lowered into blue pigment paint.

This method of bluing aluminum is considered popular, however, it is highly effective and allows you to well protect the metal from corrosion during further operation.

The processing of any metal by burnishing must be carried out in strict accordance with the chosen technology and in compliance with safety regulations.

The final result largely depends on the method of preparation of the solution and the quality of the components used.

Some ways to burn metal at home can be seen in the video posted above.

rezhemmetall.ru

Burning metal at home

Burning metal at home is carried out different ways that do not require special skills or experience. It is enough to know the technology of this process.

Blueing is also called oxidation. This is a long-established method of treating metals, which was originally used for corrosion protection. Now it acts more as a decorative coating - products acquire an attractive appearance.

Features of the metal burnishing process

By performing burnishing at home, you can save a lot on paying for the same services in a metalworking company. All that needs to be done is to apply a special composition to the surface. It will blacken and form a protective film.

Before bluing, the metal is processed - it must be cleaned and degreased. When everything is ready, it remains to choose the appropriate method and act according to the scheme.

Devices for preparing metal before burnishing

To avoid burns and other injuries, you should follow the safety rules:

Work with gloves.
Protect chemicals from accidental spills, store in original sealed containers.
Burn preparations should be kept near the place of work to provide assistance if necessary.
Well ventilate the room.
Use non-metallic containers.

To work, you need sandpaper to clean the surface. Then the metal is degreased with a substance inert to it. This can be done with any organic solvent - acetone, B-70 gasoline, perchlorethylene. Its surface is inert to these substances (immune).

Metal processing methods

They consist in the use of various chemicals, which, when interacting with the metal under certain conditions, give a strong film. The processing option is selected depending on the desired end result - some give a decorative effect appearance, others protect well against corrosion. The color of the product is also different.

Blueing with alkali

The most commonly used metal burnishing method is chemical oxidation with an alkaline reagent. The result is a fairly high-quality and durable coating, if you strictly follow the technology. The method is based on the oxidizing abilities of the metal. The process takes place at high temperatures - 135-150 degrees, while a specific smell is released.

Alkaline bluing is best done in a non-residential, well-ventilated area or outdoors.

The first step is degreasing and thorough cleaning of the surface of the metal product. Oxidation at home will not work well without preparing the right alkaline composition. It is prepared as follows:

Pour 100 ml of pure water into a porcelain container.
Add 100 gr. technical soda and 30 gr. sodium nitrate.
The solution is thoroughly mixed and heated to 135-150°C.

Metal is placed in the finished composition for 30 minutes. Then the product must be taken out, washed with distilled water, dried and evenly lubricated with machine oil.

As a result, the metal part acquires a bright black color with a blue tint. To obtain a thicker oxide film, the amount of alkali used is increased.

acid oxidation

Before bluing a metal part, its surface is cleaned with sandpaper, and you can degrease it by putting it in sodium triphosphate or kerosene for 10-20 minutes. While the part is drying, you can prepare a solution:

Metal oxidation with acid

Tartaric and tannic acids in the amount of 2 grams are diluted in 1 liter of water.
The solution is thoroughly mixed.
Heats up to 140-150°C.

The metal falls into the heated mixture for 15 minutes. After it should be washed with plain water or boiling water - if necessary, it is better to rinse off the solution. The final stage is the immersion of the metal in engine oil for 1 hour. Then the part can be removed, wiped and dried - now it is ready for use.

thermal method

This version of metal bluing appeared earlier than the others. According to the execution technology, it is the simplest, but the result is of high quality. It is based on the property of the metal to oxidize when heated and interacting with oxygen. The intensity of oxidation can be controlled by the heating force.

For thermal exposure you will need:

500 ml of machine oil;
capacity;
building hair dryer or gas burner;
pliers;
paper napkins.

Heat treatment of metals

Processing is carried out on a brick surface. You can choose another place, the main thing is that it be non-combustible.

Action algorithm:

Keep the metal part under a hair dryer turned on at maximum power.
When it warms up, dip it in oil. This can be done with pliers so that the metal is completely submerged.
Take out and blot the product with a napkin.
Repeat this procedure 3 more times in a row.

Such a simple burnishing is used to form a protective film on the metal surface - it protects well against corrosion. To give black color and decorativeness in this way will not work.

Blueing of metal in the brown spectrum

If a brown oxide film is enough to decorate the metal surface, then this method will be the most best solution. It is based on the properties of the main ingredient - iron sesquichloride, or iron (III) chloride FeCl3. This substance will be required in an amount of 100 gr. The second necessary product is olive oil (1 kg).

After mixing the components, a paste is obtained. The metal is covered with it in a uniform layer. After 3-5 hours, you need to polish the surface with a metal brush-brush. The process should be repeated several times.

There is another similar option, in which a slightly different composition:

100 gr. iron chloride;
0.5 kg. olive oil;
0.5 kg. antimony trichloride.

The resulting composition is covered with a steel product and left to interact for a day. Then wipe the surface with a woolen cloth and reapply the product for 1 day. When the time has passed, it remains only to wipe the product again with wool and polish it with a waxed brush.

You can make this method even easier - use only one and a half chlorine iron in the process, which is diluted with water at the rate of 150 grams per 1 liter. Metal is immersed in such a solution for the necessary time to obtain an anti-corrosion film of the desired brown shade.

Video: Burning metal in oil

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Burning metal at home. Treatment.

Steel burnishing is a process, mainly on an industrial scale. It involves applying a protective layer to the metal coating - iron oxide, which has certain properties. However, metal bluing at home also takes place. Of course, it cannot be compared with the process of real oxidation, yet this method is quite successfully used in practice.

There are three ways to burn metal at home:

cold;
hot;
exposure to oxidants.

Let's analyze each of them separately:

Cold processing:

If metal parts are not subjected to high mechanical stress during use, they can be cold burnished.

Among the solutions available in the home arsenal of the masters, there are those after which dark deposits remain on the surfaces of the metals. The use of these solutions in certain chemical reactions may cause black films to form. One of these, the most used, solutions is "Paris oxide". When applying the substance with a brush, a black film forms on the metal surface, after which the product must be thoroughly washed. This process is quite inexpensive and short.

If a much longer lasting effect is required, the bluing process must be carried out by complete immersion. After the procedure, the part is thoroughly washed with any detergent, then wiped with a cloth soaked in alcohol. You can check bluing with ordinary water: water is applied to the surface with a brush, forming not droplets, but a uniform film.

Hot processing:

When using this method, the metal part is first oiled, then fired with a blowtorch. Oil is used linseed, olive or specially weapon. The method is harmless, low-cost and quite effective, and the effect lasts longer than with cold treatment.

In the process of processing, heating is done slowly, starting from 200 - 400 degrees. A brown layer first forms on the surface, and then the necessary black layer. It is very important not to use too much oil, as excess can cause stains.

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The best hot working method is to use a mixture of 20 parts grease and 1 part sulfur. The resulting mixture is applied to a metal surface in a thin layer and subjected to flameless firing, after which the resulting film will be perfectly uniform.

Processing with oxidizing agents:

Using this method, metal surfaces are exposed to molten oxidizing agents, mainly nitrates and nitrites.

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Metal parts are immersed in molten salts until a black color is formed. Instead of these rather dangerous substances, it is also possible to use hot saline and alkaline solutions.

The method is widely used for blackening cast iron, steel, and copper products. The latter, after bluing, acquire a rich red color. However, heat-sensitive and hardened products should not be processed in this way.

After treating metal surfaces with all the methods described above, they must be thoroughly washed with detergents, dry, then do not forget to grease with oil.

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Solution for bluing steel. Burnishing - beautiful and durable

Steel burnishing methods

Features of bluing steel

Features of metal coloring

Do-it-yourself blackening methods

Oxidation of various alloys

Anodizing aluminum parts

What is bluing?

What is it used for?

Types of bluing

What methods are available to perform at home?

Cold bluing

hot bluing

Oxidation

Safety regulations

Blueing methods

hot method

cold way

The use of oxidizers

Some Features

Burning Secrets

Cold bluing

Recipe with oxidizer

Blackening steel at home - corrosion protection methods + Video

1 What does metal bluing give you?

2 Steel blueing - recipes of varying degrees of complexity

3 Steel burnishing in the brown spectrum

4 Recipes for oxidizing steel in noble gray and black colors

Why is it needed

Burnishing process

alkaline method

acid method

thermal method

With oil

How to make steel blue

Blue without heat treatment

2 more ways

The simplest ways

Video

Cold burnishing of a knife at home from metal or steel, how to make blackening with clover: video

The procedure for chemical burnishing of steel at home step by step (general scheme)

The most common chemical bluing methods

alkaline method

Oil bluing

Blueing with egg white

How to burnish steel surfaces?

Additional processing of blued metal

How to get a faded color?

oil at home, how to burn metal, chemical oxidation

Features of metal coloring

Do-it-yourself blackening methods

Oxidation of various alloys

Anodizing aluminum parts

Burnishing of stainless steel

in saltpeter, clover, rusty varnish, pencil

Features of bluing metals

Basic processing rules

Treatment by chemical oxidation

Using rusty varnish

Other bluing methods

Aluminum surface treatment

Burning metal at home

Features of the metal burnishing process

Metal processing methods

Blueing with alkali

acid oxidation

thermal method

Blueing of metal in the brown spectrum

Video: Burning metal in oil

Burning metal at home. Treatment.

Cold processing:

Hot processing:

Processing with oxidizing agents:

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