They will tell and show beginner photographers how to properly hold a SLR camera, correctly set up the camera in various shooting conditions, how to beautifully place objects in the frame and much more that you need to know in order to learn how to take beautiful pictures.

However, you should remember that free lessons photography for beginners is not a magic wand. Neither photography lessons, nor teachers of a paid photography school, nor a certificate of photography courses, nor a diploma in photography will make you a master of photography if you devote more time to theory than to practice!

Success in teaching photography is very simple - take pictures a lot, everywhere, in different conditions, and only sometimes, but regularly study the theory of photography!

photography lesson 1

How to hold the camera correctly

You would be surprised how many amateur photographers do not know the basics of working with a camera and at the same time cannot understand why their photographs look somehow not very good! Many of them are already adults who have long graduated from school and even received higher education. Is it worth it to spend time studying things that everyone understands?

photography lesson 2

How to press the shutter button correctly

Using "recompose" photography, the most important object in the photo will always be the sharpest, that's how they shoot professional photographers. But, sometimes it can be difficult to capture the climax of the events being photographed, especially if you are photographing with a camera with a long shutter lag. Shutter lag can be reduced...

photography lesson 3

Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority?

Which is better to use aperture priority or shutter priority? The answer is simple - depending on what you are photographing! In shutter priority mode, Tv or S to get a moving subject not blurred will increase. On the other hand, if you want the background of your photo to be blurry, choose Av (A) - Aperture Priority. However, in this case, you may need a photo tripod.

photography lesson 4

Part one

What is depth of field and how to control the depth of field

If you look closely at a photograph where there are objects located at different distances from the camera lens, you will notice that, with the exception of the main subject, some objects, both in front of the main subject and behind it, are also quite sharp ... or, on the contrary, blurry.

Part two

Lens focal length and blurred background. The first rule of IPIG

What is the focal length of a lens. What is the angle of view of the lens. What is the relationship between the angle of view of the lens, focal length and depth of field (blurring the background in the photograph). Press the lens focal length buttons and watch how the depth of field changes depending on the focal length of the lens

Part Three

Blurred background and lens aperture. The second rule of IPIG

In this Depth of Field tutorial, you'll learn a more powerful tool for changing the Depth of Field. To see how the photo will look when the aperture is closed, use the aperture repeater - a button by pressing which you can force the aperture to close to the set value and evaluate the depth of field before you take the picture. Buttons for switching lens aperture under the picture

Photography Lesson 5

Fundamentals of composition in photography

Can you please remember how you felt when you looked at the masterfully shot frame? What drew your attention to the photo? It's hard to answer this question, isn't it? And it's all about being smart photograph taken grabs your attention on a subconscious level...

photography lesson 6

Photographing a portrait

A portrait is perhaps the most responsible type of photography. Not because if the photo is unsuccessful, the model may be offended, or even ... :-) Because the portrait reflects not only external feature of the subject being photographed - a good portrait photograph always conveys the mood or feelings of the model.

Photography Lesson 7

Landscape and macro photography

Landscape and photography from a very close distance - what can be in common between them? Landscape photography is the opposite of portraiture, in the sense that all objects in the frame must be sharp. For photography of landscapes and macro, it is better to use compact cameras with a small matrix ...

Photography Lesson 8

Photographing a panorama

Panoramic photography is a relatively new and very effective mode found only in compact digital cameras. However, even if your camera does not have a panorama mode, you can still take a great panorama shot.

Photography Lesson 9

Correct exposure

Proper exposure is very important to get a good photo - this is the most important component technical quality Photo. Since the artistry of photography is partly a subjective assessment of the picture (there are no comrades for taste and color, as they say), the class of the photographer determines his ability to take a picture with the correct exposure in any lighting conditions ...

Photography Lesson 10

Equivalent exposure pairs

Imagine that you are shooting a portrait and you need a minimum depth of field - you open the aperture all the way. To get the correct exposure of the photo to the selected aperture, you need to choose the shutter speed. And now, imagine that we have entered the shadow. There is less light - the shooting conditions have changed ... Will we guess the correct camera setting or take test shots?

Photography Lesson 11

What is ISO in photography and camera?

Did you know that depending on the characteristics of a particular camera and lens, the available shutter speed and aperture values ​​change, and it may happen that you cannot find the right exposure pair. If you don't have the opportunity to set the correct exposure pair, you won't be able to get a correctly exposed frame: o(What to do? Will the frame be spoiled by the wrong exposure?

Photography Lesson 12

How to take pictures with flash

Why does the built-in flash in the "automatic" often turn on when there is so much light? Do you know why using the built-in flash in a dark room is not the most best idea? How to eliminate the main disadvantages of the built-in flash and how to use the on-camera (external) flash...

Photography Lesson 13

Photographing in unusual conditions

How to photograph a sunset the right way. How to photograph fireworks or a carousel. Have you been told not to take pictures against the sun? You can get great photos when shooting against the Sun, if you learn how to use ...

Photography Lesson 14

Camera setup: manual mode M or SCN?

Many amateur digital cameras do not have a manual shooting mode M and therefore do not allow you to manually set the camera. But, there are camera settings that allow you to get around this drawback ... But even if your camera has a mode marked with the letter M and you want to quickly master it, then this photography lesson will be especially useful for you - I will explain the logic of choosing exposure settings for often occurring stories.

Photography Lesson 15

What is white balance?

Have you seen color photographs in which all the colors turned out with some kind of yellowish or bluish tint? You might think that this camera is not good enough ... or something is broken in it ... :o) In fact, any serviceable camera (even the most expensive one that shoots in AWB mode can take such photos. It's all about the mysterious for a beginner setup, which professional photographers often abbreviate to two letters - BB...

And yet: how to photograph your first photo masterpiece. Application of these simple rules and practical advice on photography will very soon allow you to photograph your first photo masterpiece.

Photography has become an art, a fashion hobby and a daily practice. Most take pictures for social networks on smartphones, many take pictures with professional and semi-professional cameras. Modern high-quality shooting requires special knowledge and skills.

We have selected the best free online photography video tutorials for beginners for self-study from scratch at home. Master classes and advice from practicing masters.

How easy it is to learn photography

The success of the shot depends on the photographer, not the high cost of the camera and related equipment. The path to the perfect shot lies through the search for an interesting plot, beautiful light, creativity, the ability to properly set up the camera and equipment.

Which camera to choose. detailed instructions

The first step towards quality work there will be a choice of camera. The world of megapixels, sensors, apertures, shutter speeds and lenses seems confusing and complex at first. A flurry of technical characteristics falls upon a beginner, in which it is difficult to navigate on their own. What to pay attention to first of all? A short video about the types of cameras, the principles of operation and the advantages of models will help you to choose equipment consciously.

Manual shooting mode. Photography for beginners

Having decided to become a professional, it's time to move beyond the automatic shooting mode and master the manual one. An idea about the device of the camera and the processes of work helps to quickly understand the intricacies of manual settings. We offer a detailed video lesson, where, for clarity and memorization, the internal structure of the camera and its operation are compared with the human eye. No complicated terms at the intersection of anatomy and photography. The video shows examples of settings and the result.

Composition in photography

The success of a shot is 80% dependent on the composition. Knowledge and application of special rules create depth, space and volume in photography. With the help of compositional techniques, the pros are able to manipulate the viewer's gaze, draw attention to the desired object and create a certain mood. Remember the law of linear perspective from the drawing course at school? The master class will complement school knowledge with two more types of perspectives: aerial and tonal, and will also demonstrate other ways to get a balanced shot.

Focusing. Master class for beginners

Knowledge of the basics of composition for a good composition of the frame is not enough. Due to camera and hand shake, incorrect focusing, the image is blurry. Masters prefer manual setting, the frame is as clear as possible. The author of the video notes more than fifty focus points. Which method to choose - each photographer decides individually and experimentally.

The main mistakes of working with light

Proper lighting guarantees bright shots. Before each click of the shutter, it is recommended to monitor the light sources and its quality. The results of errors with light are sharp shadows on the face, “dirty light”, greenish or faded skin color, “black holes” instead of body parts, smeared silhouettes. A lesson on the correct arrangement of light sources and objects in the frame will help to increase the level and quality of work.

How to use an external flash

The design of modern flashes and their functionality are quite complex and hardly amenable to intuitive mastery. In the master class, blog host Mark Rybak talks about flash control, modes and buttons, reflectors and light diffusers, ways to shoot "through the ceiling", "through walls" and "head on". After watching the video, you will be able to adjust the flash depending on the lens width and focal length, the height and width of the room, and weather conditions. Learn how to avoid overexposure, eye flare, and other professional effects.

Studio photography

When shooting in the studio, you can immediately see what the photographer really is: an amateur or a professional. A real specialist is well acquainted with studio equipment and knows how to use it competently. There are several lighting schemes with single and multiple light sources that help to get harmonious shots. The main thing is to place the light sources and reflectors at the right distance and point in the right direction. The result is diffused light and soft shadows. The tutorial video shows a set of lighting schemes for different types filming.

Shooting a portrait on the street

Natural light footage can look bright and professional even without post-processing. A few minutes spent learning the secrets of street photography can save you hours of Photoshop work. The pro talks about the need to switch attention from place to light when choosing a location for shooting. How to learn to see the light? What hours are prohibited for outdoor photography? How to position the model relative to the incident light? Find out the answers in a short video with an example of a successful portrait photo taken on the street.

macro photography tutorial

The genre of macro photography allows you to see invisible world nature. Plants and insects enlarged many times seem fabulous, and the frame catches the eye for a long time. A master class on shooting the macro universe is given by master Ilya Gomyranov: he teaches how to create interesting color patterns and dynamics, shows the equipment and the necessary items for such a photo walk.

It is quite difficult to learn how to take good pictures if you do not know the basics and main terms and concepts in photography. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give a general understanding of what photography is, how the camera works and to get acquainted with the basic photographic terms.

Since today, film photography has already become mostly history, we will continue to talk about digital photography. Although 90% of all terminology is unchanged, the principles of obtaining a photograph are the same.

How a photo is taken

The term photography means drawing with light. In fact, the camera captures the light entering through the lens onto the matrix and, based on this light, an image is formed. The mechanism of how an image is obtained on the basis of light is quite complex and many scientific papers have been written on this topic. By and large, detailed knowledge of this process is not so necessary.

How does image formation take place?

Passing through the lens, the light enters the photosensitive element, which fixes it. In digital cameras, this element is the matrix. The matrix is ​​initially closed from light by a shutter (camera shutter), which, when the shutter button is pressed, is removed for a certain time (shutter speed), allowing the light to act on the matrix during this time.

The result, that is, the photograph itself, directly depends on the amount of light that hit the matrix.

Photography is the fixation of light on the matrix of the camera

Types of digital cameras

By and large, there are 2 main types of cameras.

SLR (DSLR) and without mirror. The main difference between them is that in a SLR camera, through the mirror installed in the body, you see the image in the viewfinder directly through the lens.
That is, "what I see, I shoot."

In modern ones without mirrors, 2 tricks are used for this

• The viewfinder is optical and is located away from the lens. When shooting, you need to make a small correction for the shift of the viewfinder relative to the lens. Commonly used on "soap dishes"
• Electronic viewfinder. The simplest example is transferring an image directly to the camera display. Usually used on point-and-shoot cameras, but in SLR cameras this mode is often used in conjunction with optical and is called Live View.

How the camera works

Consider the operation of a SLR camera as the most popular option for those who really want to achieve something in photography.

SLR camera consists of a body (usually - "carcass", "body" - from the English body) and a lens ("glass", "lens").

Inside the case digital camera there is a matrix that captures the image.

Pay attention to the diagram above. When you look through the viewfinder, light passes through the lens, reflects off the mirror, then refracts in the prism and enters the viewfinder. This way you see through the lens what you are going to shoot. At the moment when you press the shutter button, the mirror rises, the shutter opens, the light hits the matrix and is fixed. Thus, a photograph is obtained.

Now let's move on to the main terms.

Pixel and megapixel

Let's start with the term "new digital age". It belongs more to the computer field than to photography, but it is important nonetheless.

Any digital image is made up of small dots called pixels. In digital photography, the number of pixels in the image is equal to the number of pixels on the camera's matrix. Actually the matrix also consists of pixels.

If you magnify any digital image many times over, you will notice that the image consists of small squares - these are pixels.

A megapixel is 1 million pixels. Accordingly, the more megapixels in the camera's matrix, the more pixels the image consists of.

If you zoom in on the photo, you can see the pixels.

What gives a large number of pixels? Everything is simple. Imagine that you are painting a picture not with strokes, but with dots. Can you draw a circle if you only have 10 points? It may be possible to do this, but most likely the circle will be "angular". The more dots, the more detailed and accurate the image will be.

But here lies two catch, successfully exploited by marketers. Firstly, megapixels alone are not enough to get high-quality pictures, for this you still need a high-quality lens. Secondly, a large number of megapixels is important for printing photos in a large size. For example, for a poster in the entire wall. When viewing a picture on a monitor screen, especially reduced to fit the screen, you will not see the difference between 3 or 10 megapixels for a simple reason.

A monitor screen will usually fit a lot fewer pixels than your image contains. That is, on the screen, when compressing a photo to the size of a screen or less, you lose most of your “megapixels”. And a 10 megapixel photo will turn into a 1 megapixel one.

Shutter and exposure

The shutter is what covers the camera's sensor from light until you press the shutter button.

Shutter speed is the amount of time the shutter opens and the mirror rises. The slower the shutter speed, the less light will hit the matrix. The longer the exposure time, the more light.

On a bright sunny day, to get enough light on the sensor, you need a very fast shutter speed - for example, as little as 1/1000 of a second. At night, it may take a few seconds or even minutes to get enough light.

Exposure is specified in fractions of a second or in seconds. For example 1/60sec.

Diaphragm

Aperture is a multi-blade baffle located inside the lens. It can be completely open or closed so that there is only a small hole for light.

The aperture also serves to limit the amount of light that eventually reaches the lens matrix. That is, shutter speed and aperture perform the same task - regulating the flow of light entering the matrix. Why use exactly two elements?

Strictly speaking, the diaphragm is not a required element. For example, in cheap soap dishes and cameras of mobile devices, it is absent as a class. But the aperture is extremely important to achieve certain effects associated with depth of field, which will be discussed later.

Aperture is denoted by the letter f followed by a fraction followed by the aperture number, for example, f / 2.8. The lower the number, the more open the petals and the wider the hole.

ISO sensitivity

Roughly speaking, this is the sensitivity of the matrix to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor is to light. For example, in order to get a good shot at ISO 100, you need a certain amount of light. But if there is little light, you can set ISO 1600, the matrix will become more sensitive and you will need several times less light for a good result.

What would seem to be the problem? Why make a different ISO when you can make the maximum? There are several reasons. Firstly, if there is a lot of light. For example, in winter, on a bright sunny day, when there is only snow all around, we will have the task of limiting a colossal amount of light and a large ISO will only interfere. Secondly (and this main reason) - the appearance of "digital noise".

Noise is the scourge of the digital matrix, which manifests itself in the appearance of "grain" in the photo. The higher the ISO, the more noise, the worse the quality of the photo.

Therefore, the amount of noise at high ISO is one of the most important indicators of the quality of the matrix and the subject of continuous improvement.

In principle, the noise performance at high ISO in modern DSLRs, especially the top class, is quite good level but still far from ideal.

Because of technological features, the amount of noise depends on the real, physical dimensions of the matrix and the dimensions of the pixels of the matrix. The smaller the matrix and the more megapixels, the higher the noise.

Therefore, the "cropped" matrices of cameras of mobile devices and compact "soap dishes" will always make much more noise than professional DSLRs.

Exposure and Expopara

Having become acquainted with the concepts - shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity, let's move on to the most important thing.

Exposure is a key concept in photography. Without understanding what exposure is, you are unlikely to learn how to photograph well.

Formally, exposure is the amount of exposure to a photosensitive sensor. Roughly speaking - the amount of light that hit the matrix.

Your picture will depend on this:

• If it turned out too light, then the image is overexposed, too much light got on the matrix and you “lit up” the frame.
• If the picture is too dark, the image is underexposed, you need more light on the matrix.
• Not too light, not too dark means the exposure is right.

From left to right - overexposed, underexposed and properly exposed

Exposure is formed by selecting a combination of shutter speed and aperture, which is also called "expopara". The task of the photographer is to choose a combination so as to provide the necessary amount of light to create an image on the matrix.

In this case, the sensitivity of the matrix must be taken into account - the higher the ISO, the lower the exposure should be.

focus point

The focus point, or simply the focus, is the point that you have "sharpened". To focus the lens on an object means to choose the focus in such a way that this object turns out to be as sharp as possible.

Modern cameras usually use autofocus, a complex system allowing you to automatically focus on the selected point. But the principle of autofocus depends on many parameters, such as lighting. In poor lighting, autofocus may miss or fail to do its job at all. Then you have to switch to manual focusing and rely on your own eyes.

Eye focus

The point on which autofocus will focus is visible in the viewfinder. Usually it is a small red dot. Initially, it is in the center, but on SLR cameras, you can choose a different point for a better frame composition.

Focal length

Focal length is one of the characteristics of a lens. Formally, this characteristic shows the distance from the optical center of the lens to the matrix, where a sharp image of the object is formed. Focal length is measured in millimeters.

The physical definition of the focal length is more important, and what is the practical effect. Everything is simple here. The longer the focal length, the more the lens "brings" the object. And the smaller the "angle of view" of the lens.

• Lenses with a short focal length are called wide-angle ("width") - they do not "zoom in" anything, but they capture a large angle of view.
• Lenses with a long focal length are called long-focal lenses, or telephoto lenses ("telephoto").
• are called "fixes". And if you can change the focal length, then this is a “zoom lens”, or, more simply, a zoom lens.

The zooming process is the process of changing the focal length of the lens.

Depth of field or DOF

Another important concept in photography is DOF ​​- depth of field. This is the area behind and in front of the focus point where objects in the frame look sharp.

With a shallow depth of field, objects will be blurred already a few centimeters or even millimeters from the focus point.
With a large depth of field, objects at a distance of tens and hundreds of meters from the focus point can be sharp.

Depth of field depends on the aperture value, focal length and distance to the focus point.

You can read more about what determines the depth of field in the article ""

Aperture

Luminosity is throughput lens. In other words, this is the maximum amount of light that the lens is able to pass to the matrix. The larger the aperture, the better and the more expensive the lens.

Aperture depends on three components - the minimum possible aperture, focal length, as well as the quality of the optics itself and the optical design of the lens. Actually, the quality of optics and the optical design just affect the price.

Let's not go into physics. We can say that the aperture ratio of the lens is expressed by the ratio of the maximum open aperture to the focal length. Usually, it is the aperture ratio that manufacturers indicate on lenses as a number 1:1.2, 1:1.4, 1:1.8, 1:2.8, 1:5.6, etc.

The larger the ratio, the greater the luminosity. Accordingly, in this case, the lens 1: 1.2 will be the most aperture

Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/0.7 is one of the fastest lenses in the world

The choice of lens for aperture should be treated wisely. Since the aperture ratio depends on the aperture, then fast lens at minimum aperture will have a very shallow depth of field. Therefore, there is a chance that you will never use f / 1.2, because you simply will not be able to properly focus.

Dynamic Range

The concept of dynamic range is also very important, although it doesn't come up very often. Dynamic range is the ability of a matrix to transmit both bright and dark areas of an image without loss.

You probably noticed that if you try to remove the window while in the center of the room, then the picture will show two options:

• The wall on which the window is located will turn out well, and the window itself will be just a white spot
• The view from the window will be clearly visible, but the wall around the window will turn into a black spot

This is due to the very large dynamic range of such a scene. The difference in brightness between inside the room and outside the window is too big to digital camera I was able to take it in its entirety.

Another example of a large dynamic range is landscape. If the sky is bright and the bottom is dark enough, then either the sky in the picture will be white or the bottom is black.

A typical example of a high dynamic range scene

We see everything normally, because the dynamic range perceived by the human eye is much wider than that perceived by camera matrices.

Bracketing and exposure compensation

There is another concept associated with exposure - bracketing. Bracketing is the sequential shooting of several frames with different exposures.

The so-called automatic bracketing is usually used. You give the camera the number of frames and the exposure offset in steps (stops).

Most often three frames are used. Let's say we want to take 3 frames at a 0.3 stop offset (EV). In this case, the camera will first take one frame with the specified exposure value, then with an exposure shifted by -0.3 stops, and a frame with a shift of +0.3 stops.

As a result, you will get three frames - underexposed, overexposed and normally exposed.

Bracketing can be used to more accurately match exposure settings. For example, you are not sure that you have chosen the correct exposure, shoot a series with bracketing, look at the result and understand in which direction you need to change the exposure, up or down.

Example shot with exposure compensation at -2EV and +2EV

Then you can use exposure compensation. That is, you set it on the camera in the same way - take a frame with exposure compensation of +0.3 stops and press the shutter button.

The camera takes the current exposure value, adds 0.3 stops to it and takes a picture.

Exposure compensation can be very handy for quick adjustments when you have no time to think about what needs to be changed - shutter speed, aperture or sensitivity in order to get the correct exposure and make the picture brighter or darker.

Crop factor and full frame sensor

This concept came to life along with digital photography.

Full-frame is considered to be the physical size of the matrix, equal to the size of a 35mm frame on film. In view of the desire for compactness and the cost of manufacturing a matrix, “cropped” matrices are installed in mobile devices, soap dishes and non-professional DSLRs, that is, reduced in size relative to full-frame.

Based on this, a full-frame matrix has a crop factor equal to 1. The larger the crop factor, the smaller the area of ​​​​the matrix relative to the full frame. For example, with a crop factor of 2, the matrix will be half as large.

A lens designed for a full frame, on a cropped matrix, will capture only part of the image

What is the disadvantage of a cropped matrix? Firstly, the smaller the matrix size, the higher the noise. Secondly, 90% of the lenses produced over the decades of the existence of photography are designed for the size of a full frame. Thus, the lens "transmits" the image based on full size frame, but a small cropped matrix perceives only part of this image.

white balance

Another characteristic that appeared with the advent of digital photography. White balance is the process of adjusting the colors of an image to produce natural tones. The starting point is pure White color.

With the right white balance - the white color in the photo (for example, paper) looks really white, and not bluish or yellowish.

The white balance depends on the type of light source. For the sun, he is one, for cloudy weather, another, for electric lighting, the third.
Usually beginners shoot on automatic white balance. This is convenient, since the camera itself chooses the desired value.

But unfortunately, automation is not always so smart. Therefore, pros often set the white balance manually, using a sheet of white paper or another object that has a white color or as close to it as possible.

Another way is to correct the white balance on the computer after the picture has been taken. But for this it is highly desirable to shoot in RAW

RAW and JPEG

A digital photograph is a computer file with a set of data from which an image is formed. The most common display file format digital photos— JPEG.

The problem is that JPEG is a so-called lossy compression format.

Let's say we have a beautiful sunset sky, in which there are a thousand semitones of various stripes. If we try to save all the variety of shades, the file size will be simply huge.

Therefore, when saved, JPEG throws out “extra” shades. Roughly speaking, if there is blue in the frame, a little more blue and a little less blue, then JPEG will leave only one of them. The more “compressed” a Jpeg is, the smaller its size, but the less colors and image details it conveys.

RAW is a "raw" data set fixed by the camera's matrix. Formally, this data is not yet an image. This is the raw material for creating an image. Due to the fact that RAW stores a complete set of data, the photographer has a lot more options for processing this image, especially if some kind of "error correction" made at the shooting stage is required.

In fact, when shooting in JPEG, the following happens, the camera transmits “raw data” to the camera’s microprocessor, it processes them according to the algorithms embedded in it “to make it look beautiful”, throws out everything superfluous from its point of view and saves the data in JPEG which you see on the computer as the final image.

Everything would be fine, but if you want to change something, it may turn out that the processor has already thrown out the data you need as unnecessary. This is where RAW comes to the rescue. When you shoot in RAW, the camera simply gives you a set of data, and then do whatever you want with it.

Beginners often bang their foreheads on this - having read that RAW gives the best quality. RAW does not provide the best quality by itself - it gives you many more opportunities to get this best quality in the process of processing a photo.

RAW is the raw material - JPEG is the finished result

For example, upload to Lightroom and create your image "manually".

A popular practice is to shoot RAW+Jpeg at the same time, with the camera saving both. JPEG can be used to quickly view material, and if something goes wrong and a serious correction is required, then you have the original data in the form of RAW.

Conclusion

I hope this article will help those who just want to take photography at a more serious level. Perhaps some terms and concepts will seem too complicated for you, but do not be afraid. In fact, everything is very simple.

If you have suggestions and additions to the article - write in the comments.

A reflex camera can take amazing pictures in its beauty. However, without knowledge of the basics of photography, the chance of creating a real masterpiece is small. Practice and theoretical foundations will allow you to learn how to photograph reflex camera in the most as soon as possible from absolute zero.

• It is better if you photograph an uncountable number of objects. This will ensure harmony and good perception of the picture by the audience;
• Use the widest aperture possible. It allows you to achieve a clear display of the main subjects of the shooting and blur the general background;
• Draw three imaginary stripes across the frame, and three vertically. For correct composition, it would be better if the subject is located at the intersection of these imaginary lines;
• Try not to have anything superfluous in the frame. This will draw more attention to the subject itself;
• For a harmonious composition, you can place the subject right in the center, leaving free space without secondary details on the sides;
• Try to have an S-curve in the photo. It can be roads, sculptures, the coast, and so on. It will make the picture more saturated, dynamic and expressive;
• When shooting distant plans (horizon, sea), capture a small object from the foreground in the frame. This measure makes photos more voluminous, addictive;
• A good effect in photography is the complete filling of the frame. Thus, the image becomes more personal deep. On one side you can leave free space;
• Look for a frame in the frame (from branches, architectural arches). With it, your picture will simply change;
• Try to achieve maximum balance. It should not be that one part of the photo is overloaded with houses, cars and people, and the second part remains pristinely empty;
• Watch for contrast. The subject being photographed must not blend into the background. The general background, in turn, should be lighter or darker than the object being photographed;
• Choose the right shooting point. When photographing a portrait, as when photographing children, the lens must be held at the level of the model's eyes. When shooting in full height- at waist level.

DSLR autofocus

Autofocus can work in two modes: selective and automatic mode. It usually has three to nine focus points. In different modes, shooting is also done in different ways:

• In automatic mode, as the name implies, the camera itself determines which point to focus on. Priority is given to points closer to the center of the frame. Autofocus is aimed at an object that contrasts sharply with the general background. If there are no points on the central part of the scene that you can catch on, autofocus is directed to points located on the periphery. With a paired plot, the possibility of incorrect focusing is very likely;
• To avoid errors, you can adjust the focus yourself, on the center point. If the point you want to focus on is located on the periphery, you need to place the subject in the center of the frame, slightly, not completely, pressing the shutter button. Autofocus will appear in front of your eyes. Point it at the object you want and start composing the frame according to your ideas. Then just press the shutter button. Wherever the subject is located, it will turn out clear;
• Very handy tracking mode. The camera constantly focuses on the subject, whether you are shooting something or not. Thus, there is no need to wait until the autofocus is focused, and the shooting time is reduced. Tracking mode is very convenient when shooting moving objects. Focus accompanies the subject as it moves, and you can take a picture at any moment;
• In Liv mode for SLR cameras, you can turn on the face detection function. This makes it easier to shoot, because the focus is automatically set on the face of a person if he is in the frame.

There are three types of creative modes: Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and Manual. They make life much easier for the photographer, but only if the person knows how to use them correctly:

• aperture priority. Denoted by symbols Av or A. The aperture value is set independently, but the shutter speed for obtaining a standard exposure is set in automatic mode. Used for portraits, landscapes, and generally all scenes where control over depth of field is important;
• Shutter priority. Denoted by symbols TV or S. The shutter speed is set independently, but the aperture for obtaining a standard exposure is set in automatic mode. Used for shooting sports competitions, children's parties and any other dynamic scenes;
• Manual mode. The camera prompts you exactly what shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity settings are needed, and the photographer independently chooses what to add to the exposure. You can increase or decrease the values ​​as needed. Used in conditions of stable illumination, when the camera's metering may be wrong, for example, when shooting at night or when shooting lightning. Manual mode is often used in studio shooting.

Flash operation

For those who are just learning to photograph with a SLR camera with a flash, the following 3 tricks will be of interest:

• Flash on the forehead. The most primitive approach. Can be used when shooting people and interiors. With a flash in the forehead, there is a high probability of undesirable effects: too black background, red eyes;
• Illumination of the object being photographed. Ideal for portraits and night time photography;
• Flash to the ceiling or wall. Universal reception. As a result, we get a soft, diffused light that softens the shadows and gives a natural light pattern.

Common mistakes beginner photographers make

• Often cropped legs and arms, tree branches sticking out directly from the head of the person being photographed get into the frame. In order to avoid mistakes, try to ensure that the frame does not include anything superfluous;
• When shooting a group of people, novice photographers often walk too far, which makes the expression on the faces illegible, the photograph itself is poorly perceived. Try to get as close as possible to take the photo;
• In the photo - a whole heap of objects, the real one is mixed, there is not even anything to catch the eye. To prevent mistakes, focus on one object, while the general background should not be too colorful;
• Flare appears in photographs - spots and circles arising from sunlight. To prevent an error, make sure that too much sunlight enters the camera lens;
• If the emphasis in the plot of the composition is on horizontal lines (houses, architectural objects), often beginners allow a slight, as it seems when shooting, tilt, which turns into a photograph an example of how not to shoot. Hold the camera straight, otherwise there will be an effect as if the photographed objects roll down;
• Photos are blurry. To prevent a problem, make sure that the focus area is on the subject you are shooting.

Conclusion

With knowledge theoretical foundations you can save a lot of time that you do not have to spend on understanding and correcting your mistakes. Do not try to scrupulously learn all the recommendations. Information is better absorbed if it is constantly used in practice.

Good day! Timur Mustaev is in touch with you. I, too, was once a beginner in this wonderful business, like photography. I had to go through a lot, learn a lot of stuff, do's and don'ts, and consequently put in months of practice to get good results. But it will be much easier for you if you carefully read all my articles on the blog. In which I tell in great detail and in a simple language all the subtleties of photography.

Dear readers, I address in my article specifically to beginners. Well, it's time to dot the "i" and start to understand your own expensive toy - your camera! I will try to cover all the necessary basics of photography for beginners in an accessible and rather short way. Professionals, don't go far! After all, it is never superfluous to remind yourself of the main technical points of photography, which will be discussed below.

Terminology

It is possible to identify several key concepts, without which it is impossible to do when working with photography. These are aperture, shutter speed and ISO sensitivity - all three of these most important parameters are aimed at working with light, that is, they determine the entire exposure. A picture, in turn, can be said to be either under- or over-exposed, or normally exposed. This is just related to the selected parameters in the process of photographing and means that the result is, respectively, too dark, overexposed or normally lit image. Now we will analyze everything in more detail.

• Aperture may look different depending on lens model. Once upon a time, it was a turning disk and holes in it, and which consisted of simple sets of plates. Now, in a modern lens it consists of the so-called iris diaphragm - a partition consisting of several thin petals (3, 5, 7, etc.). In this form, this mechanism has tangible advantages: it is easily adjustable, small and compact, but still the design is rather fragile.
• Excerpt. For this parameter, the shutter, or curtains, in the camera is responsible, and it determines the time the light hits the matrix or film. There are several types of shutters. For example, in the old Zenith cameras there was a curtain-slit shutter. I must say, it was rather slow, which is why it had fewer opportunities, but at the same time it could be easily repaired. Also, in principle, there is nothing to break in soap cameras, where the shutter is central, similar to a petal diaphragm. Already in digital SLR cameras Nikon and Canon manufacturers switched to a lamellar shutter, or a three-plate shutter. Thanks to him, you can set both long and very short shutter speeds.
• Light sensitivity. You can guess by the name that this is the susceptibility of the matrix or camera film to light. In general, this sensitivity is set initially, and it is possible to change it only with the help of a special signal amplifier located inside the camera. It is he who allows you to make the photo brighter if you increase the ISO to 200, 400 or more, so that you can shoot in poorly lit conditions. One, there is a problem with this process: the higher the ISO, the more likely the appearance of “noise” in the image, that is, such grains that spoil the quality of the frame.

Separately about color

Light in photography is everything, photography is translated as “light painting”. Pay maximum attention to this moment in the photo. At the same time, the question of color cannot be ignored. Everyone wants bright, rich and realistic photos? I have no doubt that yes. Talking about the shades of the image, you need to introduce a new term - white balance. This is another camera setting that aims to convey various color characteristics perceived light. That is, it is the whole range of colors and their combinations. Usually they talk about warm (red, orange, yellow), cold (green, blue) shades of the picture, as well as neutral and pastel ones.

The lens is a “smart” optical device, it is able to measure and calculate the number of light rays in a certain area, and then determine all the colors and shades in the picture. But he may not always perfectly cope with his functions. Therefore, he needs help - to shoot not only in auto white balance mode, but also independently assess what the weather is like outside, whether it is cloudy, perhaps sunny, or maybe add a little red, etc. Remember that white should be white in your pictures too. Keep an eye on this, and if necessary, set the correct white balance through the camera menu. You can also use color filters to adjust the color effect.

Main Modes

Of course, in priority, it is advisable to learn how to shoot in manual mode (M) - one in which the photographer builds all the exposure parameters on his own. But while you are just learning, I do not recommend using this mode! Everything has its time. Also, there are other modes of operation of the camera, when you will need to control only one shooting parameter at most, and the camera will take care of the rest. In addition to manual mode, there are aperture priority (A or Av), shutter priority (S or Tv), semi-automatic (P), where only ISO needs to be determined. And, in fact, for the completely “lazy” there are creative modes that you select for the shooting situation, be it landscape, portrait, and others.

Camera specifications

No camera is complete without a touch device. In digital devices, this is a matrix - a device with light-sensitive cells that react to light, and in film devices - a flexible tape (film) on which a special material is applied. It is worth noting that digital has a number of advantages over film. And most importantly, the ability to view the image immediately, and then also carefully process it. The peculiarity of the film is that it not only registers a photo, like a matrix, but stores it.

In addition to the sensor, any camera includes a whole set of basic and additional components and mechanisms, without which its operation is impossible. Knowing the camera from the inside will not only expand your horizons, but also enrich your knowledge, specifically about the specifics of photography. And this hasn’t hurt anyone yet, because the more you know about the structure of your equipment, the more efficiently you can work with it!

Consider the most important technical characteristics of the camera.

1. Focal length. Not to be confused with the distance from the photographer to the subject! This is a completely different distance of just a few millimeters, and it is measured from the center of the lens to the sensor. Usually, this value is written on the lens barrel itself, for example, 50 mm. It is believed that in terms of focal length, lenses are wide-angle, that is, covering a large viewing angle of the surrounding view, normal and telephoto. The latter are able, as it were, to bring distant objects closer, increasing their scale. They are also called zoom lenses.
2. Aperture is a property of a camera, meaning its ability to convey the brightness of the image. It also has a designation on the lens, for example, 1: 1.8. This is a very important indicator, which determines the ability to photograph in low light conditions, and, in fact, the price of optics.
3. Depth of field (DOF) is the area of ​​space in a picture in which objects (animals, people) are clear and sharp. This depth of field can be small and large: either some part of the overall picture, or all objects in the frame will be in the zone of sharpness, that is, they are clearly visible. To adjust the depth of field, you can change the aperture or focal length: the depth decreases with an open aperture and a large F value.

What are those black dots?

Dear beginner, if you look into your viewfinder, you will find some dark marks there. Don't even think it's not garbage! These are just focus points. By the way, a very significant element in the camera. Thanks to these points, the camera is able to automatically focus on an object or several objects in the field of view. You can also adjust the focus using the settings and select each time a specific point in a certain part of the frame where it is located.

Let's say the main subject or character in your picture is slightly off-center, and you decided to photograph it that way. So that it is not blurry, and instead of it something completely unnecessary does not flaunt in the foreground, you can simply choose the main point that suits you the most from the available ones. Such a focus point will usually flash red in the viewfinder during the adjustment process.

From personal experience

There was a time when I, too, was just starting to master photography and seriously wondered where to start? At first, my shooting was limited to turning on the camera, setting it to auto mode and pressing the shutter button ... Think about it, in order to understand the basics of photography, you had to know only three basic concepts! I can tell you with confidence that there is not much necessary information, and it is not at all scary. I hope, in this article, you were able to verify this.

My advice to young amateur photographers is to start in order. Familiarize yourself with the basic terms, figure out what and where is located, and what it is responsible for. In practice, it is better to take one parameter, play with its value, and after mastering it, move on to the next one. So, for example, if you want to shoot people, then do not suffer with manual mode, select aperture priority, opening and closing it, you can make only one person or a whole group sharp. To capture movement, shutter priority mode will help: a slow shutter speed will blur the movement, and a short shutter speed will freeze it. Remember, composition and meaning in photography are very important, but without technical knowledge, you can ruin a potentially perfect shot!

Important! Read your camera user manual for details. Read not once, but 3-4, and maybe more. This will help you a lot in getting started.

And finally, I want to advise you, a very good video course " Digital SLR for beginners 2.0". The author explains the basics of photography in great detail. Lots of useful tips and chips that you simply need.

Goodbye readers! Good luck on your journey of mastering the complex and very exciting profession of a photographer. I would be glad if you start visiting my blog more often, as there are many more interesting, useful and exciting things waiting for you here. Here you get everything necessary knowledge and information about various secrets and tricks of photography. So, subscribe to the news and stay informed!

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.