You can call the experts - and ask them how to make a fireplace from the stove with your own hands: perhaps your stove will have its own design features.

The cost of fireplace designs

After looking at the photos and videos of do-it-yourself fireplace stoves, you will find many interesting models that you can recreate in your interiors. When you decide how to make a fireplace with your own hands at home, count estimated costs for such a building.

The final cost will depend on the materials, the size of the fireplace and adjacent surfaces, the number of floors, the material used for finishing the ceiling, floor and walls, the reliability of the foundation, as well as the climate.

Of course, building a small fireplace with your own hands will cost you less. A standard-sized fireplace made of brick and trimmed with natural stone, subject to the installation of a structure in a house with two floors, will cost about 50 thousand rubles.

We hope that our advice will not only help you do all the work cheaply and efficiently, but also improve appearance rooms through a stylish fireplace installation.

Video

Watch a video on how to make a fireplace with your own hands:

Wood burning fireplace in the house- This is a solid hearth with an open firebox.
Not only the function of heating is entrusted to it: among other things, it is a magnificent decoration that harmoniously combines the soft homeliness of the room with exquisite charm.
It is no coincidence that the popularity of such furnaces is extremely high.

There is an opinion that it is so difficult to equip a decorative house with your own hands that it is actually impossible. One can argue with this. To some extent, a fireplace is a lightweight and simplified version of a familiar stove. Their main difference lies in the method of heat transfer. So how realistic is it, and how to lay out a fireplace in the house yourself? Let's try to solve the problem together.

Operating principle

The principle of operation of a wood-burning fireplace is quite simple to understand.

Dry wood during combustion releases a lot of heat, from which the brick (stone) heats up.

He, in turn, having the ability to stay hot for a long time, shares heat gradually, for a long time, supplying the room with it.

The devices look different, but irreplaceable parts, a chimney and a firebox, are available in any model. How to achieve more efficiency from the furnace?

A good working fireplace, with high efficiency, should be:

• not too deep and wide enough;
• to increase the utility factor, special heat shields are added to the design. Their role is played by massive parts that emit when heated a large number of heat:
• the masonry of the fireplace stove for the home is specially made with protrusions and irregularities, which increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated surface, and, accordingly, heat transfer.

The depth of its laying in is at least half a meter; in a two-story housing, this value increases to approximately 0.8 - 1.0 meters.

A convenient and budget option will be made of reinforced concrete.

A pit is dug around the perimeter of the future fireplace, the bottom is measured by level.

Broken bricks or large stones are placed there, which are well compacted, then poured. After leveling the resulting layer, the procedure is repeated.

The inner part of the foundation is poured with liquid concrete, the outer part is laid out on a dense thick mortar. Several such layers are made until about 30 centimeters remain to the top. Layers should lie flat, checked by level.

Then on from the double, on the clay mortar, two layers of bricks are placed. About 7 cm remains to the clean floor - this is the basis of the future wood-burning fireplace for the house.

You can make a foundation from autonomous blocks. It is irrational to combine the foundation of the fireplace with the foundation of the house itself, since they have a different draft.

masonry

So how to fold the fireplace yourself? There are different methods of laying stoves; a fireplace stove is actually no different from them. It must be of such quality that a reliable monolithic structure is formed, which is provided by dressing of the longitudinal and transverse seams.

To do this, use a non-full-sized brick, and also use the method of alternating different parts of the brick (brick and spoon) in the corners of the structure. The seams must have a strictly specified width: 0.5 cm for a simple brick and 0.3 cm for a refractory one.

If this condition is not observed, the strength of the masonry suffers, since with strong heating the seams deform much more than brick. To ensure uniformity, a smooth plastic mortar should be used.

• Red brick has a high porosity, which is why it is able to absorb liquid. Therefore, before work, it must be soaked.
• The refractory brick is immediately ready for use. To improve adhesion with the solution, it is enough to wash off dust particles from it.

Both ceramic and refractory bricks cannot be used for joint dressing at the same time: they have different performance characteristics, including expansion coefficient. It is not recommended to place parts of bricks chipped inside the smoke channel, so as not to interfere with the normal passage of gases.

arches

Overlapping the opening occupies one of the most important places in the composition of the fireplace.

Even at the initial stage of work, thinking over the design of the fireplace, you can choose a suitable look for it.

It can be made of whole red brick, with perfectly straight lines and clear seams.

If the masonry turned out to be not very successful in appearance, it can be ennobled with plaster.

Metal, reinforced concrete are not suitable for covering the opening, as they expand greatly when heated, which leads to the destruction of the masonry. Very popular are arched and arched ceilings, which, in addition to functionality, are also very decorative.

Chimney

The wall of a brick smoke pipe must be at least half a brick wide. In the event that the surface is supposed to be plastered, a quarter thickness is acceptable. Chimney channels are recommended to be made strictly vertical.

It will not be difficult to create a brick fireplace in the house with your own hands if you follow all the recommendations exactly. The masonry of the chimney is the same as that of the fireplace itself. Some difficulties can be caused by laying a pipe at the place where it enters the roofing material.

Usually to ensure fire safety in the attic they make a masonry widening, called cutting. It can also be made from a prefabricated reinforced concrete slab equipped with a pipe hole. It is important to observe the following rules:

Masonry above roof level is the most difficult stage of work. Here, only selected bricks are used, which are placed on a cement-clay mortar. The riser is brought out above the roof plane by about two layers, after which they begin to lay out the otter. The laying of the pipe is completed with a neck and a head.

A brick pipe may well be replaced by a round or ceramic one. It is much easier to equip such a pipe than to lay it out of brick. But it has a significant drawback - it cools very quickly. If there is a significant break between the kindlings, it will be quite difficult to kindle the fireplace.

Therefore, such a pipe must be well insulated. The joint of circular section and brick chimney masonry is securely strengthened. Pipe joints must be perfectly sealed.

Finishing

When making a fireplace for a country house, you can give free rein to your own imagination and bring your ideas and dreams to life. When it comes to - there is room for creative ideas to roam.

The new stove can be finished to your taste, choosing from several existing finishes.

Many different materials can be used for cladding.

Facing with ceramics is carried out from the bottom up, from the opening of the firebox to the required level. Spectacular marble tiles are used to finish the pre-furnace plate and fireplace portal.

Plastering

The surface of the fireplace must be prepared for the process. Masonry and cracks are cleared, a metal mesh is attached to inclined surfaces and to all large areas.

Special brackets are used, or it is simply nailed. All metal elements are protected with a layer of drying oil to avoid corrosion.

First, a small layer of plaster is applied, not thicker than 0.5 cm. When it dries well, another layer is applied.

For it, a more densely diluted composition or is used. If necessary, you can apply another layer, a third, but the total thickness of the coating should not be more than one and a half centimeters.

Plasterboard cladding

To give the product a rectangular shape, the fireplace is lined with plasterboard. To do this, first install a rigid frame, which is then finished with drywall.

Coloring

It is carried out on a pre-plastered surface. To do this, take adhesive and chalk coloring compositions. If you need a snow-white surface, you can add a little blue to the paint.

Throughout time, the main place in the house was given to the hearth. IN Lately, fireplaces in houses and cottages have gained great popularity, and the question of how to fold a fireplace with your own hands is quite relevant.

Any stove - fireplace must meet the following requirements:

1. No smoke.
2. Room heating.
3. Beautiful appearance.

To achieve these goals, it is necessary to comply with all stages of construction.

Location

The very first step involves choosing the location of the hearth, not only saving living space, but also its effective heating depends on this.

First you need to decide on the type of construction.

Fireplace - stove can have the following options:

• Wall mounted.
• Angular.
• built-in.
• Island.

Based on this, the owner of the house can choose the right place for the fireplace.

When planning the location, it must be taken into account that it is not advisable to install a fireplace stove opposite the window, since the heat will go out the window. In addition, it is necessary to strictly observe the rules of fire safety, the fireplace is a source of heat, not a fire.

materials

Manufacture of fireplaces begins with the selection of materials. For construction we need:

• Red ceramic brick. Its quantity is calculated based on the prepared drawing, while all incomplete bricks must be taken into account as whole.
• River sand. Be sure to sifted and cleaned of dirt and litter. The grain size of the material should be within the normal range (0.2–1.5 mm).
• Crushed stone for the manufacture of the foundation. The allowable fraction should be from 2 to 6 cm.
• Blue Cambrian clay or plain red.
• Cement (M 200 or M 300).
• Smoke damper.
• Fittings.

Brick and its varieties

Throughout the entire period of furnace construction, a solid red brick is used, which is made of clay.

Such material spread the outer parts of the fireplaces. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the brick.

The brick must have the following properties:

• Have the correct shape;
• Do not contain cracks or dents.
• Have no deformations;

The inside of the fireplace is lined with refractory fireclay bricks or quartz material.

material quality requirements

When purchasing a brick, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

1. The material must correspond to a grade not lower than M200.
2. The required amount of brick must be purchased from one batch.
3. Appearance of a brick - it should not contain cracks, chips.

Training

This stage consists in the process of preparing materials. Particular attention, of course, is paid to the brick, but besides it, other components will be needed.

You will need a clay mixture, which is thoroughly cleaned of unnecessary impurities and wiped. Before laying, this mixture is soaked for about 2-3 hours.

The sand that will participate in the solution must also be cleaned, it will be enough to sift it through a sieve with small holes.

Having done this, you can begin to prepare the solution, the proportion of which must be strictly observed. Based on the fat content of the clay, the ratio of sand to clay should look like 1:1 or 1:2.

The resulting solution should not spread on the surface of the brick, but at the same time easily slide off it.

Foundation pouring

To fill the foundation base under the fireplace - the oven will need the following materials and tools:

• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• hammer + nails;
• board;
• fittings;
• cement (grade M400).

The first thing to do is formwork from edged boards. It must be securely installed and have a height of 8–10 cm. The reinforcing rod is laid in 19 cm increments, after which perpendicular rows of rods are laid. The joints of the rods must be seized by welding.

The solution must be poured in two stages. The first involves a layer of concrete of 4 cm, then it is necessary to lay the crate, after which the last layer is poured, the height of which should be about 6 cm.

In order for the finished foundation to be filled with no voids, the solution is slightly plowed with a free rod.

After that, the foundation must be left alone. The term of its drying can vary from 15 to 18 days, depending on the conditions of the location.

Fireplace masonry

This process is quite simple, after reading the article, you will learn: how to build a fireplace yourself out of brick? In order to perform the masonry correctly, it is necessary to strictly follow the construction plan.

DIY fireplace

The laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Several layers of waterproofing material are laid on top of the foundation base.
2. For the first row, cement is added to the mortar, and the bricks are laid on the slats.
3. The third row has small nuances, namely the installation of two pins, which will be needed a little later for the grate.
4. In order to fold the fireplace - stove correctly, you must adhere to the diagram or drawing.
5. To comply temperature regime in the future design, it is necessary to ensure that the outer wall of the brick fireplace does not come into contact with the firebox.
6. To remove excess solution from the walls of the firebox, its surface is cleaned with a damp cloth.
7. To improve the quality of heating, it is necessary to observe a small angle of inclination forward of the rear wall. For the side walls, an eversion is provided.
8. To avoid the possibility of fire, it is necessary to take precautions and protect the floor in front of the hearth with a sheet of iron.

Folding the fireplace stove is half the battle, you need to make a smoke box.

The principle of its laying is to lay out bricks with a gradual overlap. Portal-type holes are blocked inside with jumpers, which can be made in several versions:

• arched,
• wedge-shaped,
• vaulted.

To correctly lay out the smoke box, it is necessary to observe its verticality. After you have crossed the ceiling with the roof, you can begin the construction of the pipe on the roof. This laying is carried out on a cement-sand mixture.

Observing these rules, you can easily design a stove - a fireplace yourself. Now it remains to deal with the chimney.

Chimney

If the chimney structure is made of brick, it is necessary to consider a foundation for it, or a steel frame that will abut against the main foundation. The chimney itself is located on the outside of the firebox and wrapped with thermal insulation material. The top of the chimney is sheathed with a sheet of steel or aluminum.

Using ready-made pipe sections for the chimney, special clamps are used as fasteners, with the help of which the structure is fixed to the ceilings of buildings. This version of the chimney can do without a foundation base.

Finishing work

In addition to the fact that the fireplace is a stove, it can be decorated with a colored stitching seam, the brick itself may be repainted in a different color. For these purposes, tempera or gouache is used.

Decoration for the corner version of the fireplace can be tiles or marble tiles, stone or decorative brick. If a desire arises, then the surface can simply be plastered or other decorative elements can be used.

The modern market offers a large number of elements for decoration, including wooden details. For security reasons, their use is not recommended.

The decoration is fastened with ordinary tile glue, and the decoration itself should start from the bottom of the fireplace, gradually rising.

If your fireplace stove already contains marble parts, it is recommended to cover them with cellophane to avoid scratches.

• For the firebox, you can use fireclay bricks, and, for lining, choose a material of a different quality.

• The design of the chimney can be made not only of brick, but also of special modules in the form of a metal or ceramic pipe.

• To reduce errors in the construction of fireplaces, it is recommended to use ready-made drawings, and not develop them yourself.

• When designing a fireplace, you can focus on built-in shelves or firewood racks, this will give the design a more aesthetic look.

From the above material, we can conclude that laying a fireplace is a fairly simple process. All you need is to follow all the instructions and recommendations, then the question is: how to build a fireplace? won't take you by surprise.

Video: How to make a brick fireplace with your own hands

Probably every owner of a country house is thinking about making a fireplace with his own hands. However, few people bring this idea to the implementation stage, and in vain: of course, this task is not so simple, but it is quite within the power of not only a professional stove-maker. Now I will prove it to you.

If you are hatching a plan for building a fireplace, then the article I have prepared will definitely appeal to you. In it, I will talk in sufficient detail about the process of arranging this design, from the selection of material to the methods of decorative finishing.

Fireplace design

A fireplace is a fairly simple heating device that provides space heating due to radiation from burning fuel (wood, coal, less often pellets or briquettes). Unlike a stove, heat transfer here is of secondary importance: although the walls of the fireplace heat up, they give off heat quite quickly.

The design of this device is not complicated:

1. The basis is the firebox - an open chamber in which combustion occurs. The efficiency of the fireplace depends on the configuration of the furnace and on its volume, so when calculating the dimensions of the structure, this parameter must be taken into account first of all.
2. The chimney is responsible for the removal of combustion products. If you make a fireplace with your own hands “from scratch”, then the chimney is placed directly above the firebox - this design ensures maximum efficiency of the entire system. If the fireplace is being built in a house with an existing chimney, then it can also be attached to the side - taking into account the design features, efficiency losses will be minimal.

Other details that may be included in the design include:

1. Ash pan with latch.
2. Grate.
3. They cut off the flames.
4. Protective screens or doors made of fire-resistant glass.

Outside, the structure is lined with heat-resistant materials or finished with plaster mixtures that are resistant to temperature effects.

It should be noted that a fireplace in a private house is usually used as an additional source of heating. This is due to not the highest efficiency of the open design: the efficiency of classic fireplaces rarely exceeds 25 - 30%. On the other hand, let's be honest - we rarely decide to lay out a fireplace just because we're cold!

Materials and tools

Sammi popular, and at the same time, the easiest to manufacture (if the word "simple" is applicable to stove masonry) are brick fireplaces. It is about the manufacture of such a design that I will discuss in this section.

From the materials we will need:

1. Ceramic brick (M150 or better) - from 250 to 500 pieces, depending on the dimensions of the product.
2. Fireclay fire-resistant brick for lining - about 50 pieces.
3. Metal parts of the fireplace - grate, protective grill, door, etc.

1. Corners metal (50 mm and more).
2. Masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves.
3. Cement mortar for pouring the foundation.
4. The sand is screened, with a grain size of 0.5 to 1.5 mm.
5. Stucco mixture.
6. Cladding material - clinker tiles, natural stone, etc.
7. Refractory materials for the manufacture of protective screens.
8. Sectional sandwich chimney.

For laying the structure and its finishing, we will use the following set of tools:

1. Shovels for digging a ditch and mixing the solution.
2. Tanks for preparing mortar (for foundation, masonry and plastering).
3. Measuring tools - level, plumb, tape measure, square.
4. Furnace hammer.
5. Master OK.
6. Spatulas.
7. Brushes for processing seams.
8. Stitching.

In general, there is nothing particularly complicated - but it is much more convenient to work when everything you need is at hand.

Preparatory stage

Location selection

When planning to build a brick fireplace with your own hands, you first need to decide where it will stand.

As a rule, they put fireplaces in living rooms or bedrooms, but the exact place should be chosen according to the following recommendations:

1. The ideal option is the location near one of the inner walls (or even the installation of a fireplace built into the wall). So it will not only give off heat to the room, but also heat the next room.
2. The structure, installed in the corner formed by two internal walls, is also very effective. But the construction of a fireplace in this case will be somewhat difficult: it is more difficult to lay corner models than standard ones.

1. Place a fireplace against a wall big amount windows are undesirable. Even window frames you have a well-fitted, all the same, when burning fuel in the cold season, drafts will inevitably occur.
2. It goes without saying that it makes no sense to attach a fireplace to the outer wall: in this way we will mainly heat the street, and temperature drops will not benefit the structure.

Calculation of dimensions

Now we need to determine the main dimensions of the future structure.

The most important thing here is the correct selection of the dimensions of the furnace part and the chimney.

1. The area of ​​​​the furnace opening of the fireplace directly depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which it will be installed. The optimal ratio of these values ​​is from 1:50 to 1:70. So, for example, for a conditional living room with an area of ​​​​20 squares (for a country house there are quite a lot), you will need a firebox of about 0.4 m2.

Some reference books give a ratio of 1:100, but this is more likely to be used for decorative fireplaces that are heated in rooms with a high enough temperature, solely to create an atmosphere. So if you have a separate heating boiler or stove, then it is quite possible to save on material.

1. From the area of ​​​​the furnace hole, we need to move on to height and width. For small fireplaces of a standard configuration, the optimal ratio is 2:3. For our example, a design of 50 - 52 x 75 - 77 cm is suitable.
2. The ratio of firebox depth to height is from 1:2 to 2:3. It is undesirable to deviate from these ratios: if we do less - there will be a lot of smoke, if we do more - the heating efficiency will decrease. For our example, it is worth choosing a firebox from 26 to 35 cm deep.
3. We make a smoke hole about 10 times smaller (it is allowed to “spread” from 8 to 12 times) the area of ​​​​the furnace hole. In our case, this is approximately 0.04 m2.
4. The optimal height of the chimney is 4-5 meters or more.

Foundation device

Now that we know where the fireplace will be placed, and what dimensions its base will have, we can proceed to laying the foundation. Simply building a structure on the floor is not an option: the mass of even a small model can reach half a ton, and no overlap can withstand such a load without deformation.

The laying of a capital foundation for a fireplace is easiest to plan at the stage of building the building itself. If the structure is being built in an already operated house, then it will be necessary to dismantle the floor covering and partially dismantle the structures located under the floor.

The algorithm of work will be something like this:

1. First, we dig a pit at the installation site of the structure. The length and width of the recess should be about 10 - 20 cm more than the base of the fireplace, and the depth - 0.7 - 1 m. Under small fireplaces, you can lay a base 0.5 m deep, but no less.

1. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay large stones or broken ceramic bricks on the ground. We ram the backfill, after which we fill in a layer of concrete with a thickness of about 20 cm.
2. When the concrete partially polymerizes, we repeat the filling with rubble stone, using a finer fraction. We compact the backfill again and fill in the solution (you can make it thicker).

1. According to this scheme, we lay three or four layers of material. Under the last layer, which should go to the level of the floor in the room, we lay waterproofing - a roll of roofing material or a polymer membrane. This material will cut off capillary moisture from the base of the structure.

The last leveling layer can be made not from concrete, but from ceramic bricks on clay / cement mortar. To increase the strength, several steel angles can also be laid in the base, which will provide a more even distribution of the load.

The described foundation is the simplest, but at the same time it provides sufficient stability for the entire structure. By the way, I would not recommend connecting it with the common foundation of the house: these bases have different speed shrinkage, therefore it is desirable to provide them with a certain degree of freedom.

Protecting the premises from fire

A brick fireplace heats up quite strongly during operation, in addition, an open firebox is a potential source of sparks and “shooting” coals. That is why in a room built of combustible material or finished with such materials, it is necessary to equip an additional protective circuit.

It includes a separate area of ​​​​flooring in front of the furnace hole and the so-called leaning wall:

1. We finish the floor area in front of the fireplace with non-combustible tiles - tiles, porcelain stoneware, clinker or natural stone. I prefer clinker, but the other options are good enough as the floor doesn't get very hot anyway.
2. Before starting the construction of the fireplace, we also protect the wall behind its back wall. For this purpose, a brick wall made of refractory bricks is best suited. The wall should be about 50 cm wider than the fireplace - so it will more effectively protect the base from overheating and ignition.

1. Instead of a brick wall, you can make a screen. The refractory materials used here are either galvanized steel sheet on a base of basalt fiber or fire-resistant drywall, or a mineralite slab mounted on ceramic bushings and fixed with screws. The disadvantage of such screens is their appearance: if a brick wall can still be entered into, then sheets of polished metal or refractory composite will clearly stand out.

1. Separately, it is worth mentioning the thermal insulation of the chimney. When installing a fireplace in a wooden house, all areas where the wood will come into contact with the heated surface (whether it be a brick chimney or a sandwich pipe) must be equipped with a fire protection circuit. I usually use non-combustible materials based on asbestos or (better) basalt fiber.

Construction technique

Fireplace masonry

Before proceeding with the construction of the structure, we study the drawings of fireplaces, which are presented in abundance on the Internet. You can find a few examples in this article, but in fact, the choice is huge, so finding the right model will not be difficult.

Now let's start laying:

1. We begin work with the preparation of the solution. Experienced stove-makers use clay or cement-clay compounds, but for beginners it is better to spend money and take a ready-made masonry mixture with refractory properties. We prepare the solution according to all the rules, strictly observing the proportions indicated by the manufacturer.
2. Now on the foundation we lay out the under - the first layer of brick, which consists of one or two starting rows. Hearth bricks should lie perfectly even, therefore we set them according to the level, strictly controlling not only the plane, but also the diagonals.

Under - the first row on a waterproofed base

1. After laying out the hearth, we proceed to the formation of the combustion chamber. To reduce costs, masonry is best done with an “air pocket” device - a gap between the inner chamber and the outer lining. In this case, inside we use a fairly expensive fireclay brick, and outside - a regular one, which is cheaper (the price of fireclay is about 65 rubles apiece, the price of a full-bodied M150 is 7.50 - 10 rubles apiece).

1. We lay out the bottom of the combustion chamber from fireclay, forming a hole for the ash pan in the center and installing a grate for collecting ash. There should be free space under the grate - it must be provided for when laying out the hearth rows.
2. Next, lay out the walls of the combustion chamber, as well as the outer walls. I prefer to first lay out the firebox, and then, with a lag of about two or three rows, raise the outer lining.

Two-layer construction: inside - refractory, outside - ordinary brick

When laying the front wall, do not forget that the place of contact between ordinary and refractory bricks is a potentially problematic area. To protect the material from destruction when heated, I lay strips of basalt cardboard between the bricks.

1. If the design of the fireplace provides for the presence of a door, we embed a frame in the front wall, which we also install with a basalt cardboard gasket.

1. When the walls of the furnace and lining are brought to the desired height, we make the overlap. For overlapping, it is best to use a thick glass-magnesium sheet. We close the side air gaps with sheet fragments, after which we lay the sheet on the back of the firebox from above so that there is a hole for the chimney (forming a “chimney tooth”). On the other side of the hole we fix the steel corner.

Air pockets can be filled with refractory bricks or regular red bricks - this material will keep warm, so the room will cool more slowly. A screed up to 50 mm thick is poured over the glass-magnesium overlap of the pocket.

1. From above we begin to lay the casing. The easiest way is to make it stepped, each time reducing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure by 1/4 brick. Due to this, we form a cone that provides effective smoke removal.

In the place of the narrowing of the fireplace body, you can lay a thick beam of dried wood - a mantelpiece. However, it can also be made of brick, forming a ledge across the entire width of the structure.

1. We raise the casing either to the ceiling (connecting it to the hole made in the ceiling), or to the chimney hole built into the wall. We make the upper part of the casing even.

Drying the fireplace is best in a natural way. To do this, we actively ventilate the room for 10-14 days, trying to minimize temperature drops. As soon as the condensate on the internal surfaces disappears, and the damp spots on the brick disappear, you can start finishing.

Surface finish

If we make a fireplace with our own hands, then after laying it must be finished. When used for the outer part of decorative brick, the finish consists in putting the seams in order, but most often the fireplaces are either plastered or lined with clinker.

Both technologies are quite laborious, so here I will describe only the main algorithms.

Let's start with the plaster:

1. To level the surfaces, we use a fire-resistant plaster composition. It can be prepared from clay, sand and asbestos, but it is better not to experiment, but to buy a ready-made plaster mix with guaranteed heat resistance.

1. Before applying the plaster, we take a nail and deepen the seams between the bricks, removing the mortar to a depth of about 10 mm.
2. Steel plaster mesh with cells from 10 to 25 mm and fix it on the surfaces to be plastered. For fixing, we use only nails that need to be hammered into the seams between the bricks - neither metal nor plastic dowels are suitable, because they deform when heated and destroy the masonry.

1. We plaster the surface in two or three layers: first we apply 3-5 mm of the solution, dry it, and only therefore we lay the bulk - in layers of no more than 10 mm.
2. When shallow cracks appear, carefully embroider them with a knife, moisten and cover with a fresh solution.

1. After that, the plaster is dried either in a natural way or in a neat channel, followed by cooling.

Fireplaces are lined with their own hands easier than they are plastered, so it is better for beginners to choose this method:

1. As a finishing material, we use terracotta, clinker or majolica - special ceramic-based tiles that can withstand strong heat without damage.
2. For fastening, we purchase a special heat-resistant glue - its elasticity allows you to compensate for temperature changes when the walls of the fireplace are heated. So the tile will not fall off.

1. Before facing, we perform rough plastering - it is not necessary to perfectly align the walls, it is important to get a surface without protrusions and depressions.
2. The adhesive composition, diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions, is applied with a notched trowel both on the fireplace wall and on the tile. We press the facing material to the surface and level it.

1. When facing, be sure to lay the seams between the parts. To control their width, you can use either remote crosses, or (if you need a wide seam) GKL trimming.
2. When the glue polymerizes, we overwrite the seams with a special compound. It will not only give the structure a complete appearance, but also protect the base of the fireplace from moisture penetrating through the gaps between the tiles.

1. 24 hours after the completion of the grouting, we heat the fireplace (very carefully, without fanaticism) and leave it to dry for another two weeks. After that, the design will be ready for use.

Conclusion

This is not to say that building a fireplace with your own hands is easy. To successfully complete the work, you will need both certain knowledge and skill with accuracy. But in any case, if you follow the recommendations given in the text and on the video in this article, and in difficult situations, seek advice in the comments, then everything will work out!

Creating a beautiful and functional brick fireplace with your own hands in a country house is a task that is not very difficult for an owner with ingenuity. Due to the material, the cost of a brick portal and chimney will not be high, especially compared to granite, marble and other exclusive minerals. Cement mortar for masonry, necessary tools also not very expensive.

Before you make a fireplace yourself for a summer residence, you need to choose its design and shape, as well as decide on the calculation of the size of the firebox, chimney and portal.

A simple fireplace, depending on the location, is wall-mounted and corner. Its parameters are determined based on the area of ​​​​the heated room: it is divided by 100 - as a result, the optimal area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace is obtained. The width of the furnace hole should be 1.5-2 times greater than the depth and approximately 1.5 times less than the height. To achieve sufficient draft, the area of ​​the smoke hole should be 10-15 times smaller than the area of ​​​​the firebox, and the straight section of the chimney should be 3 to 5 m long. With such proportions, it is possible to achieve efficient heating of the room and safe operation of the fireplace.

A brick mini-fireplace for a summer residence is well suited for small spaces and requires a minimum amount of building materials. With a firebox size of no more than 40 x 60 cm, it will completely cope with heating a room up to 20 square meters. m., and its height without a chimney will be approximately 1.1 - 1.2 m, width 0.5 - 0.6 m. Considering the entire lining with decorative ledges and the coating of the smoke tube, the structure will require 220 - 230 standard red brick .

The English fireplace differs from other models in its direct chimney, one-way heat flow and a trapezoid-shaped firebox. Such a device allows most of the generated heat to enter the room.

The side and rear walls of the firebox have a slight slope of about 20° and serve as a kind of reflector of heated air. The smoke collector has the shape of a pyramid, and the chimney pipe is also hidden under a layer of brick, which tapers slightly towards the ceiling. Another feature of English fireplaces is the base under the portal in the form of a platform, which is laid out of refractory bricks.

The depth of the firebox for English fireplaces is 0.4 - 0.5 m, the brick layer should protrude from the edges of the furnace hole by 0.3 m, and the protrusion of the horizontal base can reach 0.5 m. For effective traction and sufficient heating of the room, it is necessary that the cross-sectional area of ​​​​the chimney and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe furnace had a ratio of 1 to 8. The outlet pipe for the English version should be 3–5 m high. Subject to all these conditions, it is possible to achieve simple and uniform heating of the room, a beautiful flame in the hearth and the absence of harmful smoke in the room. Classic English fireplaces have a long history and will add a cozy atmosphere to any country house.

A barbecue grill is an option for outdoor use. This is a great way to arrange a personal plot, where you can comfortably spend your leisure time in good weather. A fireplace with a barbecue, in addition to a woodpile and a firebox, has a ledge on top, on which skewers with barbecue or a grill for roasting meat are placed. In addition, on such a device, you can cook other dishes in a frying pan, in a saucepan, in a roaster, and food cooked on the street with a natural fire is not only healthy, but will also give the family a lot of positive impressions.

The simplest barbecue fireplace without a roof is much easier to install than the home option, because it does not require the construction of a smoke box and a chimney - all combustion gases are vented directly to the street.

For the foundation, a concrete base is usually chosen, the thickness of which will depend on the mass of the brick structure of the future barbecue, usually it is 20–30 cm. for coals and a place for the location of the grate or skewers. You can show your imagination and install more complex designs: with two fireboxes for the simultaneous preparation of several dishes, with decor over natural or artificial stone bricks, with a table for cutting food or a sink with a tap and sink.

A country gazebo can be built with a brick frame and a fireplace, and the walls and roof are made of other materials: profiled iron, wood or plastic. This will simplify the installation work and save on building materials.

There are a huge number of projects of country gazebos for the street, the most common of them:

• An open gazebo under the roof on 4 columns with a brick barbecue, this option is suitable for calm, waterless weather, but in case of bad weather, you can build light walls made of fiberglass, PVC panels or other available materials. The roof can be tiled with metal or ondulin tiles, and electric lighting can even be installed inside.

• A lightweight construction of a wooden gazebo in which brick is used only for the fireplace itself with an arch-shaped firebox. On a cool evening, a small company can gather around the hearth, the heat from it will be enough. If necessary, you can equip the roof with a canopy made of light polymer materials.

• Finnish arbors have recently become widespread with us, as they are designed for a cold climate. They have the shape of a regular 6 or octagon in profile with closed walls and a sloping roof, from the center of which a chimney pipe emerges. They use a brick island fireplace, designed for both barbecue and space heating.

Since an ordinary clay brick is universal in its physical properties, it can be used for both home and outdoor fireplaces. That part of the furnace, which is in direct contact with an open fire, is selected from a refractory grade.

purpose

The outdoor fireplace has many design projects, with home craftsmen coming up with new ideas every year. Outdoor fireplaces can perform the function of heating, cooking, or a combination of two tasks at the same time. Models can be island or wall, if they are attached to the gazebo, the outer wall of the house or a stone fence. The latter option is very interesting, it will save materials and construction costs if the site already has a strong and high brick fence. A corner or wall fireplace with a small hood can be attached to it.

A country fireplace made of bricks is most often made of an island type, a simple U-shaped design without a high chimney pipe. For this option, it is better to equip the foundation in advance with a platform of concrete, street tiles or other durable non-combustible material. It will be convenient to place chairs for relaxation and other garden furniture on it. An island fireplace for a summer residence can be modernized over time, adding new details, in the end, having built a full-fledged indoor gazebo with heating and a barbecue.

A decorative fireplace is used by many in interior design, so as not to use complex systems with smoke box, extractor hood and refractory materials. A false fireplace in a room can work on the basis of an electric, gas or water heater, and skillful paintings, electric light or candles are used to simulate a flame. This option will not replace the natural heat from burning firewood, but it will look very impressive and will cost much less, since it does not require the work of an experienced stove-maker.

The fireplace in the house should, first of all, provide a normal smoke exhaust to the outside, so that the room does not have a strong smell and carbon monoxide. It is necessary to calculate its dimensions based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, and for cladding, materials with high thermal insulation should be used. If it is planned to make a false fireplace, then an ordinary decorative brick without fire resistance is used.

Fireplaces for baths use mainly coal for heating, are small in size and simple in design. They have 2 working parts: a firebox and a chimney. The difference from the traditional sauna stove is that the firebox is open and the heat for heating comes from it. Brick versions of such fireplaces are usually wall or corner. Due to the large mass of building materials, they must be installed on a massive base, if the floor in the bath is not thick enough, then you need to take care of an additional foundation for the stove.

Fireplace device

Home fireplace consists of 4 parts:

• firebox where firewood is burned;
• smoke collector for a smooth transition of smoke into the chimney;
• a chimney that removes combustion products to the outside;
• portal around the firebox with decorative lining.

The options for the stove may be different, but it is best to choose a trapezoidal shape of an open firebox with inner walls at a slight angle. This will provide the greatest efficiency of such a fireplace. A very efficient fireplace model for a room with an air heat exchanger. This part can be made in the form of a snake-shaped pipe, which generates additional heat. Therefore, for the flow of hot air into the room, it is not necessary to maintain a constant open fire.

Outdoor fireplaces with a firebox can have chimneys, a barbecue, an oven, metal burners, and even a roof for cooking in the rain. Their device depends only on the imagination and capabilities of the owner. There are interesting models of fireplaces with a bread machine, with a woodcutter or several fireboxes.

materials

For the arrangement of fireplaces, red bricks are mainly chosen from clay or ceramics, plastic molding or pressing. The latter option is less durable, especially under high thermal loads, as it contains many pores. But ceramic bricks obtained by plastic molding have a smooth and durable surface and are no less strong inside.

There are 3 types of bricks for home and outdoor fireplaces. Ordinary building non-facing brick is designed for inner layers of masonry that are not visible. It does not need protection from an open flame and a smooth, beautiful surface, which is why it is the cheapest. In the manufacture of refractory bricks, pressing and high-temperature firing of workpieces from fireclay mass or quartz are used. Such building materials are installed in places of contact with open fire, i.e. in the furnace and smoke box. Facing and shaped bricks for decor have a smooth, uniform surface with different colors, textures or luster.

For masonry, mortars are used, which include cement, sand, water, and sometimes chemical fillers for heat resistance. In order not to calculate the most correct combination of components for building a furnace, you can purchase special dry building mixtures which only need to be diluted with water and mixed before use.

In addition to brick and binder mortar, when building fireplaces, metal parts are used for the grate, heat exchanger, chimney, barbecue and charcoal trays.

With or without foundation

The arrangement of the foundation for the fireplace is best done during the construction of the building itself. But if the house has already been built, then the floor is cut out and a concrete or brick base is made under the fireplace facade. Depending on the size of the fireplace, the foundation deepens 30 - 50 cm below the floor level. The brick base should be laid on a mortar of cement grade 400 or 500 with sand in a ratio of 1 to 3. In the case of a poured foundation, a wooden formwork is constructed from concrete.

A foundation for a home fireplace is not needed if it has a high brick base, such that the distance from the bottom of the firebox to the floor is at least 0.3 m. In this case, it must be taken into account that the floor structure can withstand the existing weight of the stove with a chimney. Also, false fireplaces do not need a foundation.

An outdoor fireplace in any version must be erected on a concrete base of at least 20 - 30 cm, so that the structure is stable in the backyard soil.