The end of summer and autumn is a hot time in the country. Hard-working owners harvest, salt and pickle vegetables, cook compotes and jams to remember warm days at the family table on cold winter evenings. After harvesting, it's time to start preparing the site for winter, including carrying out autumn work in the greenhouse. You should carefully cultivate the soil, strengthen the frame, get rid of pests, so that next year the table will be decorated with the same juicy and tasty vegetables.

Greenhouse cleaning

Putting things in order in the greenhouse means clearing the soil of everything superfluous and clearing the passages. At first glance, it seems that the soil is relatively clean, in fact, it is full of unnecessary seeds, dried roots, remnants of stems and leaves, as well as ubiquitous pests. Of course, in such an environment, spring seedlings will not be able to fully develop. Large plant residues can be collected manually, and to prevent the subsequent reproduction of harmful plants, the top layer of soil, about 5-7 cm, should be removed.

The most unpleasant part of cleaning is the destruction of the larvae. The easiest way to get rid of the larvae of the bear is to carefully dig the soil. And in order to remove the larvae of the May beetle or wireworm, you will have to work hard. Ideally, the soil should be sifted, and the pests should be collected by hand, as they are very tenacious, they are not afraid of either digging or winter freezing of the soil.

Preparing the greenhouse for winter

Any work with the soil is carried out before frost, while the earth is soft and pliable. Good soil preparation in autumn facilitates spring work.

Soil disinfection

Soil diseases can be eliminated by disinfecting it. There are several proven over the years methods of "treatment" of soil ailments.

• The spider mite is afraid of sulfur. To expel it, it is enough to fumigate the greenhouse space at the rate of 150 g of sulfur per 1 m³. If the greenhouse is not infected with spider mites, prevention should be carried out by reducing the amount of sulfur to 50g. To increase efficiency, all cracks are hermetically sealed, walls and racks are sprayed with water, and sulfur or sulfur checkers, laid out on metal sheets or baking sheets, are evenly distributed along the entire length of the building. For personal safety, a gas mask must be used. Having withstood the greenhouse for three days in sulfuric waste, it should be well ventilated.
• They get rid of the keel with 40% carbation, diluting 500g in 10 liters of water. With this solution, water the soil from a watering can during digging.
• The gall nematode and the black leg will die from karbofos. 90 g of powder is diluted in 10 liters of water and 1 m³ of soil is treated with the resulting composition. After that, the soil must be dug up so that the soil moistened with karbofos is at the bottom.

All disinfection work is carried out at a temperature not lower than + 10ºС, otherwise the effect of the treatment will be minimal. In addition to these methods, many summer residents use an infusion of tobacco, garlic or mustard, adding ash or coniferous extract.

The soil in the greenhouse must be thoroughly cleaned

soil fertilization

At the end of all work, you should carefully dig all the soil. To enrich the fruitful layer, manure, humus, peat are used. Approximate proportions - half a bucket of fertilizer per 1m². In addition, superphosphate or potassium sulfate is added to the soil. Minerals are used based on soil analysis and what crops will be planted in the greenhouse in the spring.

From above, the soil is sprinkled with ash or sand, at the rate of 1 liter of composition per 1 m² of land, and covered with straw. An excellent means of warming the soil is to use the fallen snow, covering the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse with it evenly. In the spring, it will melt under the rays of the sun and saturate the soil that has dried up during the winter.

Washing the walls and frame of the greenhouse

It is better to wash the removable film coating of greenhouses before dismantling it, so it dries better and faster. For washing, ordinary soap solutions are used that will not damage the film, for example, compositions based on laundry soap. You can disinfect the coating with the usual solution of copper sulfate. After carefully drying the film in natural conditions, it should be carefully folded and placed for storage in a dry, warm room.

Tips from seasoned gardeners

The structure itself should be carefully treated with a solution of bleach, approximately 400 g per 1 bucket of water, after insisting it for 4 hours and mixing. A certain amount of the solution, preferably its upper part, can be used to disinfect the soil, and the sediment is suitable for processing structural details, as well as garden tools. An ordinary brush will serve as a tool for applying lime.

Non-separable greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass are washed in a similar way. Under no circumstances should aggressive chemicals be used. detergents and sharp tools such as iron brushes. Wooden floors are treated with a solution of freshly slaked lime and copper sulfate. Small improvised objects and containers: cups, drawers, shovels - should be thoroughly cleaned, scalded with boiling water, dried and put away until spring.

Strengthening the frame

A large layer of snow accumulated over the winter can destroy even a strong industrial greenhouse from galvanized steel. The bearing capacity of the greenhouse is a maximum of 500 kg/m², while, for example, Siberian snowdrifts reach a much higher weight. That is why the frame of the greenhouse must be strengthened either with additional arcs from the manufacturer that come with the kit, or with home-made supports in the form of the letter "T". It is most effective to fix the ridge - the upper part of the greenhouse.

It is necessary to strengthen the frame of the greenhouse so that the snow cover does not damage it

How many supports are needed? If the width of the building is 6 meters, then 4 fixtures are enough. It should be taken into account that leeward places and the proximity of fences threaten the formation of snow "caps", therefore, in dangerous places there should be twice as many props. It is not difficult to avoid burrowing into the ground; it is enough to put something solid under the base. To prevent the supports from falling, they are fixed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe upper crossbar.

If there is an opportunity in winter, it is advisable to clear the surface of the greenhouse from snow. Sometimes it is enough to knock from the inside if there is not much snow. The main thing is not to use hard scratching objects for work: they can damage glass or polycarbonate, in connection with this, its ultraviolet protection and light transmission will decrease.

Timely tillage and care of the frame guarantee the full preparation of the greenhouse for the new season. Fertilized and dug up soil, cleared of pests and diseases, will bring much more yield, and a well-groomed greenhouse will serve for many years.

Soil preparation in the greenhouse plays an important role in obtaining a rich harvest. How and when should you prepare the soil for a greenhouse? How to get rid of pests? Warming up the greenhouse with manure in early spring, the procedure. What kind of manure or others and at what time is it better to use? So, how to properly prepare the soil in a greenhouse or greenhouse, we read in the article.
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Soil preparation in the greenhouse

Autumn work, before frost

The soil in the greenhouse also needs to be prepared for the onset of frost. It is necessary to take the earth out of the greenhouse from the beds and scatter them with a layer of 60-80 centimeters. Then humus is introduced into the greenhouse with a layer of 15-20 centimeters. If the land is not fertile, fertilizers are added to it, and then they are also brought into the greenhouse. At the end, you can lay out mulch on the beds.

After the greenhouse survives the frost, by the time the plants dive, it will have fertile and soft soil ready for planting.

How to get rid of a bear. Greenhouse disinfection

Unfortunately, it is rare to find humus without a bear, so it’s better to get rid of this pest right away, spreading the pickled seeds in the greenhouse a couple of days before diving.

If the same crops are grown in the greenhouse, for example, tomatoes, most likely, various pests of these particular vegetables have already appeared in the soil. Therefore, before planting seedlings, it is worth spilling the soil with a hot (about 60 ° C) solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 1 gram per 10 liters of water.

It is necessary to disinfect not only the soil, but also the greenhouse itself. To do this, all wooden structures are washed with copper sulfate, which destroys fungi, lichens and moss, and after a week they are coated with bleach.

To obtain a treatment agent, 400 grams of bleach is infused in 12 liters of water for 2-4 hours. Then the liquid is drained, and the sediment is used for smearing. If, in the summer, greenhouse plants have suffered any disease (for example, tomatoes have been ill with brown spotting), greenhouse structures and glass should additionally be sprayed with foundationazole or oxychome.

Warming up the greenhouse in early spring, soil preparation

If the winter was harsh, with severe frosts, but you plan to use the greenhouse for planting in early spring, you need to start the process of self-heating. To do this, after the snow melts, the earth is abundantly spilled with hot water. And after a few days you can start planting!

But you can get the first greens already in early spring or plant seedlings of cold-resistant crops in a greenhouse not only with the help of hot water. The soil can be warmed up in a tried and tested old-fashioned way - with the help of biofuels or the introduction of organic matter. This method can be used by those summer residents who have the opportunity to purchase fresh manure in early spring. The volume of manure applied should be 1/4 of the volume of the entire greenhouse soil. For example, a standard plot with two greenhouses and four greenhouses will require about half of KAMAZ manure.

Horse manure in cold climates releases the optimal amount of heat. Plus, it heats up the fastest. Pig manure, as well as rabbit and sheep manure, are not suitable for heating greenhouses - it is too hot for greenhouse plants.

How to prepare warm soil

So, the preparation of warming soil will require the following steps.

1. In autumn, organic residues are brought into the greenhouse. These are straw, grass clippings, plant tops, leaves and kitchen waste. This is necessary so that the soil is looser, and for the spring burning of manure.
2. In autumn and spring, sawdust should be brought into the greenhouse. Thanks to them, the soil becomes loose, and nitrogen from fresh manure is also absorbed. Sawdust is needed as much as manure was brought into the greenhouse - the more manure, the more sawdust.
3. Lime is also added in the fall to normalize acidity, since organic residues in the process of decay contribute to soil oxidation.
4. In the spring, fresh manure is introduced into the greenhouse. This is the main source of heat and a supplier of nutrients for future plants. If you do not add plant residues, the manure will not heat very much. Therefore, it should be mixed with straw, sawdust and leaves.
5. In the spring, earth is poured into the greenhouse.
6. Ash is poured on top of the earth.
7. Mineral fertilizers are also scattered over the ground.

In order for all the components listed above to fulfill their warming function, it is necessary to prepare a “pie” from them. Tops and grass are laid as the bottom layer, straw and leaves are laid on top of them, then lime and sawdust. These components should be introduced into the greenhouse in the fall. In the spring, manure crumbles from above and sawdust falls on it. Mix the ingredients with a fork. Thanks to the mixing, the organics later begin to overheat. Then the whole composition is abundantly spilled with hot water. This speeds up the warming process.

After that, all the components are covered with a layer of earth (about 25 centimeters), sprinkled with ash (1 cup per one square meter), and also make complex mineral fertilizers, such as Nitrofoska, and loosen the entire bed. Then follows another strait with hot water - and the soil is covered with a film. Within a week, the ground will be warm enough to start planting.

What can be used instead of manure

If it was not possible to find fresh manure in early spring, you can try to do without it.

In this case use:

• fir tree,
• thin branches,
• leaves from bath brooms,
• hay,
• chopped reed,
• siderates - in detail,
• seaweed,
• sawdust,
• bark,
• pond and river silt,
• urea
• earth,
• lime,
• ash,
• mineral fertilizers.

All components are introduced in a certain sequence:

• the lower layer is made up of large and long rotting branches, brooms, spruce branches, reeds;
• then the following components are alternated and laid in thin layers;
• urea and sawdust are brought together (200 grams of urea per 3 buckets of sawdust);
• then lime follows, the volume of which depends on the amount of leaves and sawdust;
• silt is used only for acidic soil;
• the top layer consists of earth, ash and mineral fertilizers.

All layers, with the exception of ash, earth and mineral fertilizers, are applied in the fall, and these components in the spring.

Do not make up the warming soil too early, otherwise it will not warm up to the desired temperature.

Part of the biofuel can be put next to the greenhouse for freezing for the winter. In order to warm all the components in the spring, it will be necessary to cover them with a double film and, as they thaw, lay them out in a greenhouse or in a greenhouse.

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After harvesting, the time comes to prepare the greenhouse structure for wintering, and the soil for the next season. There are a number of activities that need to be carried out in the fall, and not postponed until next spring. Such work in the greenhouse can be safely considered an investment in the future harvest..

First of all, the room is freed from fruit-bearing plants, weeds and other green residues. It is not recommended to leave them until spring, firstly, various insect pests and pathogens of fungal diseases can overwinter on them. Secondly, they will interfere with the work on fertilizing the soil. In order to grow a rich harvest, the land in the greenhouse is fertilized twice: in autumn and spring.

Next, the greenhouse itself is cleaned: the surfaces, frame parts and coating are washed. If the plants did not get sick during the season, then simply rinse the inner walls with water from a hose and brush through the details of the frame with a brush. Glass, polyethylene and polycarbonate can be washed with a solution of bleach (400 g per bucket of water) or an emulsion of laundry soap can be dispensed with. After drying from moisture, the details of the frame, where necessary, are tinted.

Clean greenhouse after cleaning and washing

Measures to combat fungal infections

If the plants for summer period suffered from disease or insect invasion, cleaning is not limited to. Disinfection must be carried out, otherwise fungi, bacteria, insect larvae and eggs will persist, and the next year the plants will become sick again.

Soil replacement

Processing the greenhouse after harvesting in the fall is carried out in several ways. The most effective, but time-consuming and far from always acceptable method is soil replacement: the upper 10-20 cm of soil is removed and replaced with a new one. There are also “tips” that suggest steaming the removed layer with boiling water or calcining it, which really helps to eliminate not only fungus, but also bacteria. The only problem is that the method works well when it comes to several bags of soil, for example, for growing seedlings. But how to do this with a large amount of land is not clear.

Treatment with a fungicide

Therefore, the best option would be treatment with a modern fungicidal preparation, for example, Fitosporin-M. You can also use Bordeaux liquid, a 10% solution of copper sulfate and sulfuric smoke bombs. The last option is quite extreme (dangerous to health), but inexpensive and multifunctional. Before acting, carefully watch the video on how to properly fumigate a greenhouse with a sulfur checker. And note that sulfur can cause corrosion of metal structures, greenhouse manufacturers usually warn in the instructions whether or not to use a sulfur checker in their greenhouses.

Video about fumigation with a sulfuric smoke bomb

Fumigation of a greenhouse with a sulfur checker is harmful and dangerous to health, but effective and budgetary:

Important: to get rid of fungal infections, it is necessary to process not only the ground, but also all surfaces inside the greenhouse, as well as seedling containers, boxes, racks, greenhouse equipment, supports (metal and wooden).

Solutions of substances are sprayed using a sprayer. With "Fitosporin-M" and other biological products work at a temperature above 10 ° C, at a lower temperature, the active substances do not work.

Pest control

“Fitosporin” or Bordeaux liquid will disinfect the greenhouse and soil from fungal infections, mold, and various bacteria. Insects remain, whose eggs and larvae overwinter in the soil and in the crevices of the greenhouse frame. This, for example, spider mites, aphids, nematodes. Also, as in the case of fungi, disinfection by spraying is necessary. If you used a sulfur checker, then you don’t need to use anything else: sulfur destroyed everything.

Spraying structural parts of the greenhouse - necessary condition in the fight against pathogens and fungi

If after the end of the season there are drugs such as Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Gaupsin, Trichodermin, you can dilute their residues and use the solution to spray the soil and frame parts. The use of bleach is also effective: 400 g of the substance is taken for 10 liters of water. The solution is infused for 2-4 hours. If a spider mite was seen in the greenhouse, the amount of bleach is increased to 1000 g. The solution is sprayed, the sediment is used to brush the wooden and metal parts of the greenhouse: special attention is paid to the frames, the lower parts of the frame, joints and junctions of parts. In extreme cases, you can use solutions of chemicals, for example, the insecticidal preparation "Karbofos", effective against aphids, scale insects, bedbugs and ticks. Mosses and lichens are removed with a five percent solution of iron sulfate. Disinfection with gentle biological products is also carried out for preventive purposes.

Soil work

Preparing the soil in a greenhouse in autumn is to raise its fertility and cleanse it of pests..How to fertilize the earth in the fall? in the best way solving problems in a complex way is the use of EM preparations (containing effective microorganisms). There are two ways to prepare the base:

• grow plants - green manure, which are then cut off at the root, the green mass is laid in a layer of 5-10 cm;
• use organic fertilizers.

If you have time to grow green manure, do it. For the future cultivation of cucumbers, mustard, rapeseed, peas, and vetch are sown; for tomatoes - mustard, lupins, beans and other legumes; for pepper - oats, lupins, peas, alfalfa. The average vegetation period of such plants is 2-5 months, so it is necessary to sow the seeds at the end of July, or in the middle of August, if we are talking about mustard, which develops up to required dimensions takes just over a month.

Green manure plants need from 1 to 6 months to grow and develop to the desired size. The best option is mustard: it grows quickly, gives a large number of green mass

When green manure plants grow up, they are cut off at ground level and cover the ground with tops. As an alternative to green manure, they use: fresh manure (not the best option, since it contains many pathogens), peat, humus, compost. Standard for 1 sq.m. 5-12 kg of organic fertilizers are consumed. After placing the green layer of green manure (organic matter), the beds are shed with biological products such as Vostok EM-1, Radiance-1 or Baikal EM-1. There are 3-5 liters of solution per square meter. Half a glass of a substance dissolved in 10 liters of water is enough for 2-3 square meters. meters.

By carrying out such a procedure, you can get rid of fungal and bacterial pathogens and increase fertility. In addition, over time, microorganisms will begin to decompose the organic residues of green manure or fertilizers, turning them into biohumus. Most proponents of organic farming successfully apply this technology in the fall. Preparations, of course, are less effective than "chemistry", but for preventive purposes they are the best and most multifunctional option. If there is no time, finances or desire, you can simply use organic fertilizers, which can be applied for digging, or laid out in layers. Organic fertilizers introduced in autumn decompose slowly and also enrich the soil, increasing its fertility.

A short video shows soil cultivation in the Fitosporin greenhouse and mustard sowing to fertilize the soil (in the plot, the work is carried out in the spring, but the same scheme is applicable in the fall):

If EM preparations or organics have not been applied, then it is necessary to fertilize the soil with mineral fertilizers. In autumn, potash-phosphorus fertilizers and a small part of nitrogen are traditionally applied, the dosage is calculated according to the instructions. The earth is dug up shallowly - by 5-7 cm, loosened. It is more convenient to work with a pitchfork so that weed roots can be picked up. The shovel breaks them apart: something can be seen and removed, and something will remain for the next season. Fungi, eggs, larvae also remain in the soil, so it is shed with the same preparations that were used to wash and spray the frames.

Strengthening the frame with temporary arcs or props

In regions with frosty and snowy winters, it is recommended to strengthen the frame of the greenhouse with temporary arcs or props. Snowdrifts that have accumulated over the winter on the roof of a covered garden can damage the structure. Therefore, the frame of the greenhouse should be strengthened with homemade T-type props or factory arcs that come with the kit from the manufacturer. When strengthening the frame, emphasis should be placed on the upper part of the structure - the so-called "skate".

How many supports are required? As a rule, for a greenhouse with a width of about 6 meters, 4 T-shaped devices fixed at the top of the building will be enough. If there is a threat of accumulation of snow caps (the greenhouse is located in a leeward place or near a fence), then the number of props should be doubled.

Beams can sink into the ground and thus weaken the structure, so be sure to place the struts on a solid base, and not on bare ground.

Provide snow removal from the roof of the greenhouse during heavy snowfalls

It's important to know! The maximum load on the greenhouse structure is 70 cm of air snow or 30 cm of wet snow.

Proper conduct of autumn work in the greenhouse guarantees the successful transfer of the building winter period and full preparation of the structure for the new season.

A well-groomed greenhouse will last for many more years, and the cleaned and fertilized soil will delight you with a rich harvest.

I live in the village. I moved from the city to the countryside and for the fourth year now I have been mastering the charms and difficulties of village life. Now spring has come, and the main thing we have is a vegetable garden. Urban fashionable conversations on topics such as manure is so useful and whether to replace it with green manure are not conducted in our village. There is manure - there will be a harvest.

country classic

All the latest technology cultivating the land is not for our villagers. Here they acted and act in the old fashioned way.

From fertilizers - only manure.

In autumn, after harvesting, they plow the ground on a horse or walk-behind tractor and spread manure on top. In the spring, manure is scattered again and plowed again. No crop rotation. Potatoes for years in the same field, in the beds are always the same garlic, cabbage, onions, beets and carrots.

In the greenhouse - cucumbers with tomatoes. When summer residents appeared and along with them black spandbond-lutrasil, the villagers began to use it - to plant strawberries on it. Apple trees are never fed or watered. Raspberries and currants are also not particularly worried. And everything grows and bears fruit. True, every year is different. But it is written off on the nature and weather.

The next door neighbor

One of my neighbors, a summer resident from the regional center, has vast experience in dealing with the land. Her garden is a picture: not a single extra blade of grass in the beds, and the paths between them are trampled down as if they were specially compacted. In greenhouses - thickets of cucumbers and tomatoes. Strawberries are the sea, zucchini are giants, onions are the size of an orange. The reason is increased nutrition. Literally everything is used here: manure, grass infusion, and chemical fertilizers. Now, in April, a neighbor from morning to evening with a shovel is intensively digging up all the beds.

garden experiment

My other neighbor, a resident of the capital, loves experiments. One day she was planting potatoes in straw. Alas, that summer there was an invasion of water rats and shrews - they ate everything. But the pumpkins last summer were a success. The experiment is as follows: they mowed the grass and left it, put several layers of newspaper on top, then a couple of buckets of earth, make holes and plant a pumpkin seed.

I love high beds. I made them as follows: I dig a groove 30 cm deep, put branches, old boards, rags, grass, ash, a little earth on top and cover everything with spandbond. Tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, physalis grow well.

Fertilizer with manure - bet on organic matter

However, whatever the beds and experiments, the earth still "wants to eat" in order to please us with a good harvest. In our village, they remember the old saying: "The earth is mother, and manure is father." Therefore, I also trust the classics. Forget about chemical fertilizers and focus on manure. The introduction of manure has little effect on the effectiveness of nitrogen fertilizer, but phosphorus and potash fertilizers weaken against the background of manure. You should always choose one thing, the earth does not need excesses.

Manure is a complete organic fertilizer, contains all the nutrients necessary for the plant and is a very effective remedy.

What is valuable in it? Magnesium and calcium reduce soil acidity. Microorganisms increase biological activity. Potassium and phosphorus are found in manure in a form available to plants. Manure nitrogen remains in the soil for a long time. From manure, a large amount of carbon dioxide is released into the soil, which is needed for photosynthesis and heat transfer.

Sometimes it is difficult to apply the exact amount of manure to the soil. In this case, I have a cheat sheet, I share:

The 10 liter bucket contains:

• 8 kg of fresh horse manure,
• 5 kg of manure on a bed of sawdust,
• 9 kg fresh cow manure
• 5 kg of bird droppings,
• 7 kg of humus,
• 12 kg of slurry.

What kind of manure can fertilize the garden

Horse dung- the best. Great for greenhouses and greenhouses. Already a week after laying in the greenhouse, its temperature rises to 60 °. It lasts for more than a month, and then drops to 30 °.

rabbit dung practically in no way inferior to the horse. But this is a rarer option, we have few rabbit farms.

Goat and sheep manure is also an excellent material for biological heating in early spring.

cow dung- warms up only to 50 ° and cools down after a week.

Pig manure - similar in quality to cow manure, it is better to use both of them for later greenhouses and greenhouses when the sun comes up.

bird droppings- effective, but use in excessive amounts can damage both the aerial parts and the roots of plants. From bird droppings, goose and duck droppings act more gently.

Assorted from different types manure- welcome.

Dunginstruction

Manure is stored in dense piles without oxygen access and loose heaps with air access. The first option, I think, is better. So it is better to save all of it beneficial features. The term of overheating of manure is up to six months.

I defend the liquid manure mass before use. Then I put the solid sediment into the soil, and dilute the remaining liquid with water 5-6 times and water the plants with it. It is mainly a nitrogen-potassium fertilizer. It goes very well with cabbage and root crops. Just make sure the plants are well watered first. They love such top dressing and fruit and berry crops. It can even be sprayed on plants with powdery mildew.

How and how much to apply manure

Making manure in the garden and in the garden - sharing experience

The worms are roaring - the earth is resting!

In autumn I buy a fresh manure machine. I make a litter of straw and grass, I put the brought manure on it. I put cabbage leaves, carrot tops, etc. on this pile. I periodically water a bunch, I cook food for earthworms. Please note: fresh cattle manure should lie for at least six months, rabbit manure - two to three weeks, and pig manure - a year and a half.

In spring and summer, I also periodically water a bunch. In July-August, I populate with earthworms, which I dig out on the site or take from the heap of the previous year. Worms are the best doctors, cooks and tasters of the earth in the world. There are California worms, they are more efficient, but too capricious - they need a certain temperature.

When I harvest tomatoes, cabbage, peppers and other vegetables, I do not uproot them, but cut them down with a shovel or an ax: there are a lot of earthworms on the roots. In autumn, they begin their breeding season.

So, preparatory work over, now we start preparing the soil for the new season. Consider this on the example of winter garlic. When and how to plant winter garlic, they wrote more than once. But what to do then?

Taking into account our climate, I harvest garlic on July 15-20. I dig the vacated area onto the bayonet of a shovel. I throw the earth on the side of the road - it turns out a trench. In this trench I lay the green mass of grass, straw. I strongly trample down with my feet and bring in the compost along with earthworms taken from the heap of the previous year. Compost rate - 20 kg per 1 sq. m, as recommended by scientists.

I fill the trench with earth, and in the next one I again lay grass, straw, I bring in compost. That's it: the plot has been dug up and fertilized. Now I take a rake and all the harrow. I water the soil well. After 2-3 days again harrowed soil so that there is no crust. Now the plot will rest. Depending on weather conditions, I water it again after 10-12 days. Then the harrow, destroying the crust and the weeds that have appeared, I give air access to the ground.