Seasoned fishermen are well acquainted with the indispensable attribute of their favorite hobby: worms. However, even experienced anglers do not know the name of the worms used as bait and, moreover, they do not suspect that they can be used not only for fishing. Vermiferma — promising and low-competitive business. You can breed Californian worms even at home, and investments in this business are minimal. From the article you will learn how to earn up to 200 thousand rubles per month on breeding worms at home or on a personal plot.

Worms are common invertebrates on Earth. There are a great many of them, however, biologists distinguish three main subspecies of earthworms: Anecic, Endogeic and Epigeic.

First lives on the surface of the earth and if he needs a "burrow", then he digs it vertically. If it is transferred to atypical conditions, then it will lose the ability to reproduce. This is true for the artificially created environment as well. Anecic is important for soil formation.

Second prefers mineral soil with a meager proportion of organic matter. The minks are horizontal and rarely come to the surface. Constantly processes the soil, enriching it with various nutrients. However, it also loses the ability to reproduce when transferred to an artificial habitat.

Third the type is the red Californian worm and it endures any conditions, therefore it is necessary to derive economic benefit from it. This species prefers to process organic matter (leaves, bark, etc.). Minks dig neat and short.

To whom to sell California worms?

Contrary to popular belief, not only anglers can sell worms. Implementation takes place through the following channels:

• Farms just planning to start operations;
• Summer residents to increase the population of worms in the gardens;
• Fishermen in places where there are few or no worms;
• Fishing shops (both for sale and for cultivation);
• Producers of biohumus;
• Pet lovers, pet stores (for feeding pets).

However, before you sell, you need to grow Californian worms. Let's see how this business works.

Where to begin

To breed worms at home, you will need to purchase: scales, a sieve, a shovel, pitchforks, buckets, a wheelbarrow, thermometers, boxes or containers for growing. Much depends on the quality of the soil: the intensity of reproduction, the life cycles of worms, their appearance.

Each container must be half filled with humus and crushed cardboard, mail moisture should not be below 70%. If you don't have a moisture meter, just squeeze the soil in your hand: if there are a couple of drops of water left, then the humidity is right.

When starting a business, do not rush to buy expensive equipment: for growing, you can take wooden boxes or even plastic food boxes. Be sure to make holes for ventilation.

A separate room is allocated for the vermi farm, the temperature regime of which should be 18 to 25 degrees. When watering, use water without chlorine: it adversely affects the quality of the life cycle of the worm.

You can buy breeding stock both on the Internet and from the owners of local farms. Pay attention to the appearance of the worm: it must be mobile, the color is red. The livestock includes no more than 1.5 thousand individuals. There should be no more than 3 families per 1 m2.

California worm cocoons are sold on the Internet. Minimum order from 300-500 pcs. The advantage is the absence of problems during transportation even over long distances. From one cocoon, 5-25 fry hatch, which tolerate artificial soil better than adults. The cost of 1 cocoon is from 3 to 8 rubles for 1 piece.

How to settle and care for

Prepare the ground. After 2-3 days, make a recess in it and populate the first worms. Then cover them with soil and cover the container with a lid. After another 1-2 days, add food. After a week, it is worth checking whether everything is in order with the inhabitants of the container, perhaps some of the settlers have died. If you find dead worms, then vary the acidity level: to increase it, add straw or sawdust, and to decrease it, add limestone, chalk, egg shells. Ideally, the surface of the earth should be clean, and the worms should be as mobile as possible.

You can feed the worms with any plant food: potatoes, cabbage, banana skins, watermelon peels, bread, grass. Worms are vegetarians and therefore you should not give them meat and eggs. Also, don't feed them citrus fruits. Feed food should be in a crushed form: they will not be able to process large pieces. Try to keep the composition of the feed constant, the worms do not tolerate the change of food.

They multiply quickly and therefore prepare boxes for transplanting young animals in advance. Over the winter, one family increases by 10 times or more. Remember that they need moisture, so water the soil regularly. And also the worms need oxygen, and if the soil depth is more than 20 cm, then carry out regular loosening.

Profitability

Up to 10 thousand worms and about 0.5 tons of biohumus are obtained from 1 cubic meter. The cost of a worm is about 2-3 rubles, the cost of biohumus varies. One box or small container of fishing or pet food worms can be sold for 250 - 350 rubles. The cost of 1 kg of worms reaches several thousand rubles.

Return on investment comes in 2-3 years. Many entrepreneurs do not take such a business seriously and therefore do not reach the payback point. It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the vermifarm, as well as humidity. Worms can only survive in conditions 70-80% humidity. Competition in the market is minimal, so the creation of a vermifarm in an apartment or in a country house is a promising line of business.

The overall profitability depends on a large number of factors, but the main one is farm size. The larger the worm breeding area, the more profit you will receive. Try your hand at this business by organizing one container of worms and once you feel progress just buy more containers or build a farm on the land. Remember to promote your business: agree in advance with fishing and pet stores on the supply of worms for subsequent sale (deliveries should be made in bulk).

Advantages and disadvantages

Vermifarm carries minimal risks: it is enough to try yourself in this business with a small investment. Organize a worm farm even in an old refrigerator or wooden box. If you lack experience or information, look for it on the Internet: watch a couple of training videos.

There are no shortcomings in this business, it is simply excellent, according to the reviews of entrepreneurs. With a serious approach, this working business will bring serious income.

Do not assume that the production of worms is focused only on pet stores and fishing shops. One of the main lines of business is the creation of vermicompost used on farms and in private households. This fertilizer is in demand both in Russia and abroad. Biohumus today is a profitable investment.

vermicompost, or biohumus.

red california worm" (KKCH).

Benefits of biohumus

Earthworm food

- bread crusts;

Earthworm Care

Usually food is added to the worms every 1.5-2 weeks. The frequency of feeding depends on the number of worms in the box (in the ridge) and on the temperature of their content. When the temperature approaches the optimum (24 degrees), the activity of the worms and the amount of food they consume increase.

Earthworms need oxygen, therefore, after reaching a substrate layer thickness of 20 cm or more, it is regularly loosened (pierced).

To pierce the ridge, use special vermicompost pitchforks with round ends or rounded pins.

Everything starts anew.

Wintering of earthworms

The use of biohumus

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Worms for breeding

(Temporarily out of stock)

Californian for sale worms for breeding in a large plastic box (container) with a supply of feed (substrate). We send orders to all regions of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries, as well as abroad. For small production volumes, we recommend using the container breeding method. In the winter season, delivery through a transport company is carried out in a warm mode - the worms will remain intact.

California worms for breeding from the manufacturer

Order and we will save the price! Pick up when it suits you!

3450 2950 rubles when ordering 1 container with a population of the Californian worm;

3350 2850 rubles from 2 to 4 pieces;

3250 2750 rubles from 5 to 9 pieces,

3150 2650 rubles from 10 pcs.

Plastic empty perforated boxes - 350 rubles / piece. (size 60x40x20cm, volume 40 liters, see photo below).

There are worms of different ages in the box

• adult worms 10% (from 5 to 12 cm, about 1000 pieces);
• fry of worms 40-60% (juvenile individuals ranging in size from 1 to 3 cm, 2-5 thousand pieces, are not counted separately, since they are very small). Watch a video about them at the bottom of the page;
• cocoons of worms 20-30% (diameter 2-5 mm, one cocoon is taken as 5-7 worms, 100-300 pieces, not counted separately).

You get worms of all ages and sizes in a plastic container in which the worms will breed and bring even more offspring, producing biohumus. If you want to grow worms in a container, you need to purchase (for each container of worms you purchase) an additional 2 empty containers. You can also buy a population of worms in any container convenient for you by prior agreement. Worms tolerate transportation without problems and can live in a container with a supply of substrate without additional feeding for about a month. During vermicultivation, an increase in the number of worms depends on compliance with the breeding technology: maintaining a constant temperature, humidity, timely feeding, air extraction, division, loosening, acidity of the substrate, ventilation and other factors. You can familiarize yourself with various breeding technologies on our website.

The population includes adult worms, fry of the California red worm and cocoons. From 5 to 7 tiny worms (juveniles) come out of one cocoon. In the first week after emerging from the cocoon, the worms are very small and thin. Over time, they gain weight and change their color. Worms for breeding is in a breathable spunbond bag in a container. For safe transportation, the container is placed in a large breathable polypropylene bag and, if necessary, insulated during the cold season. Bottom lining made of thick layers of paper or cardboard. We carry out all packing activities for the order free of charge. The substrate (food for worms) is enough for at least 4 weeks. You can buy worms for self-delivery from a farm in the Moscow region or Moscow, we also organize delivery to all regions of Russia through a transport company. The total weight of one container is from 12 to 15 kg, depending on the humidity and density of the substrate. As a rule, the average weight is 14 kg, but when received in another city, it may be 1 kg less due to the evaporation of some of the moisture during long-term transportation. All orders are collected before shipment and reach the customer without any damage.

Number of worms in a container and transportation

If we calculate the average volume and weight of the substrate per adult, we obtain the following data. The volume of the entire substrate, taking into account the geometry of the container, is approximately 58x40x15 cm = 34800 cm3 and the weight is 15000 gr. At the same time, the feed does not occupy the entire height of the container of 20 cm, since there should be a small margin on top for better ventilation and to prevent excessive compression by third-party goods. Accordingly, all adults have a volume of 34800 cm3. With their number of 1000 pieces, we get an average volume of 34.8 cm3 and a weight of 15 grams per worm.

California worms breeding at home

Malek processes the minimum amount of food, especially during transportation - they can be neglected in the calculations. This volume is enough for one month, and during transportation, the worms do not process it very quickly due to third-party vibrations, noise and small temperature drops.

Who benefits from purchasing the California worm population

• Novice farmers who are just planning to engage in vermicultivation and want to try this type of activity;
• To increase the California worm population by adding adult worms, fry or cocoons to beds, piles, etc. on an existing farm;
• Fishermen in regions where fishing worms are absent in the ground for various reasons or their cost in fishing shops is very high;
• Fishing shops that have the opportunity to grow fish worms for resale, as this is much more profitable than buying packaged worms;
• When vermiculturing at home, for the production of biohumus in small volumes and the cultivation of worms for fishing at any time of the year. Fertilizer is perfect for various house plants and garden plots;
• For feeding pets: lizards, snakes, rats, fish, spiders, mice, newts, etc.

Plastic perforated container for breeding worms

For the container method (see photo below) of growing worms and producing biohumus, plastic containers are used, perforated on the sides and at the bottom, 60x40x20 cm in size. The entire composition of the breeding stock is contained in a bag of dense spunbond. The bag itself is included in the price. To breed worms in a container way (information about this method is available in the corresponding section of the site), you will need an additional two empty containers per population. The formation of a fully filled rack of three tiers takes approximately 2-3 months, while the number of adult worms, fry and cocoons approximately doubles.

Packing worms

Worms for breeding with a supply of substrate, neatly placed in a spunbond bag.

Before sewing up the bag, a little rotted foliage or grass is placed, which was previously moistened. Then the bag is sewn on top.

Sheets of thick cardboard paper are placed at the bottom of the container to maintain moisture.

The sewn bag with worms is placed in the container.

The container is packed in a bag made of breathable polypropylene fabric for shipment to another region.

If the order is with additional empty containers, they are nested inside each other. A container with worms is placed on top, then everything is fixed on the sides with adhesive tape.

We send orders to clients in other cities in additional containers through a transport company, one of the terminals is located in Moscow. You can see what the order ready for shipment looks like in the next photo.

Instructions after the acquisition of breeding stock

After receiving a container with worms for breeding, do not rush to immediately cut the spunbond bag and, moreover, mix the entire composition of the substrate (compost). If you received an order through a transport company, then the green (or white) woven polypropylene bag in which the container is located must be removed. It is used only for order transportation, as it is tear-resistant, resistant to punctures, cuts, abrasion and inert to various chemicals. After receiving, wait until the worms have processed most of the substrate and get used to other, including temperature conditions. To do this, after receiving the order, we recommend waiting 15-20 days from the date of sending your order.

Cut the spunbond along the perimeter (you can leave the leftovers on the side and bottom), or you can dissolve the central seam. After that, start feeding the worms. Prior to this, without cutting the spunbond, we recommend making several indentations on top with your fingers and pouring 150-250 grams of water at room temperature into them once every 5 days. Thus, water will slowly penetrate through the spunbond and moisten the substrate. Do not use warm tap water, as it contains many chemical elements harmful to worms. It is better to use spring or rain water, and not necessarily completely clean and transparent. If this is not possible, pour cold tap water into a glass and let it stand for at least 12 hours. If a puddle forms at the bottom of the container during moistening, then it is no longer necessary to add water and the substrate has sufficient moisture. For more information on breeding worms, see the relevant sections of our website (menu on the left).

Earthworms in the soil are a factor in its fertility and a condition for the normal development of plants.
The main enemy of earthworms is man. Many people do not know the priceless virtues of these earth workers, and sometimes they consider earthworms to be harmful creatures. This delusion arose from ignorance. Therefore, it is necessary to explain that there is no other such useful animal - a friend of the earth and the basis of our well-being - as an earthworm.

A huge amount of food waste is annually taken to the city's garbage dumps.
Being a lover of indoor plants, one day I decided to try to get biohumus in an apartment using the vermicultivation method.
I read the necessary information about it and got down to business. During the winter, without any complications, our family of three, with the help of earthworms, received about 150 kg of excellent fertilizer from food waste.
This biohumus is enough not only for indoor floriculture, but for gardening and horticulture (for planting 2-3 thousand potato bushes or 1 thousand tomato bushes).

A successful home experiment on the production of biohumus and the fact that I am an apologist for the principles of organic farming contributed to a serious mastery of vermicultivation.

The use of earthworms

Vermicultivation is a process of recycling organic waste using earthworms.
The resulting product is called - vermicompost, or biohumus.

Selection of the dung worm (genus Eisenia-foetida) in the United States has resulted in a line known as the "red California hybrid", or " red california worm" (KKCH).
KKCh provides a rapid increase in biomass and the fastest disposal of waste, is a long-liver (lives up to 16 years).

Basically, earthworms are bred for the production of biohumus.
In addition, worms can also be used live (as food for various domestic animals, fish, amphibians and reptiles, as well as some species of birds and rodents).

Benefits of biohumus

More and more people are now seeking to consume organic food. In different countries, vegetables grown on biohumus are much more expensive than those grown on manure or mineral fertilizers.

On the soil fertilized with vermicompost, you can not only grow eco-friendly products, but also increase the yield of the site by 2-3 times or more.
According to the ability to restore soil fertility, one ton of biohumus replaces 15 tons of manure.

The most important advantage of vermicompost is that its application does not increase the contamination of the soil with weeds (when applying ordinary manure, the contamination increases by 30%).

Biohumus is non-toxic, free from chemical additives and from many pathogenic microorganisms. It improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, prevents the leaching of nutrients from it; reduces the effect of harmful salts and phytotoxic elements, radionuclides and heavy metals.

Biohumus as one of the main components of soil for greenhouses increases the duration of the use of the substrate up to 3-5 years. At the same time, the quality of products is significantly improved, the amount of nitrates in it is sharply reduced.

There are fundamental differences in the effect composts and vermicomposts have on plant growth. This is explained by the fact that processes of various nature occur in them, in which communities of microorganisms that are very different from each other participate.

Conditions for breeding earthworms

Breeding earthworms is easy for everyone to master.

It is necessary to exclude the possibility of penetration to the worms of moles - the worst enemies of earthworms. In the case of cultivation of worms on the street, a protective net is used or a platform is concreted to keep the worms at an angle (to reduce stagnant water).

With year-round production of biohumus, boxes with worms are placed in utility rooms - in garages, sheds, basements, attics, even in an apartment. The air temperature suitable for keeping earthworms is 15-25 degrees.

The cultivator of worms should be covered with mulch (straw, hay, burlap) from drying out and light.
In the apartment, a box with worms is covered with a lid. The lid and bottom of the box must be perforated.

A box with worms is placed on a pallet, where excess liquid drains. Sand can be poured into the tray and then used to mix into the soil of the garden.

A neutral environment with an acidity of 7 pH is optimal for keeping worms. In an environment with an acidity of 6 pH or more than 8 pH, all worms die within a week.

The prepared wet substrate should stand for 5-7 days before settling with worms. During this period, the substrate must be periodically moistened to remove residual ammonia.

Earthworm food

During the day, one worm is able to process a large amount of organic matter equal to its own weight (the average weight of an earthworm is 0.5 g).

Worms feed on almost any organic matter:
- cattle manure (fermentation 3-6 months);
- pig manure (fermentation for at least a year);
- rabbit or goat manure (can be given immediately);
- kitchen waste (potato peelings, etc.);
- used tea leaves (tea and coffee);
- bread crusts;
- soaked and shredded newspapers or cardboard, etc.

It is not recommended to use manure that has lain for more than two years after completion of composting as feed for earthworms. It already contains very little of the nutrients needed by the worms. Such manure can be used as an additive in the composting of organic waste.

You can speed up the fermentation of fresh manure with the help of EM preparations (EM - effective microorganisms). In this case, the manure will be ready for use by worms in 0.5-1 month.

Earthworms are vegetarians, do not use animal waste to feed them(meat, egg white and yolk, etc.).

All food given to earthworms must be minced or ground in some other way. because worms cannot process solid food.

Maintain a constant feed composition because the nascent worms tune in to the food they first tasted. When the composition of food changes, some time must pass for earthworms to adapt to it.

Earthworm Care

Caring for worms comes down to feeding, maintaining a favorable temperature, watering and loosening the compost ridges (box substrate).

On the wet compost (substrate) ready for settlement, place the earthworms and distribute them evenly.

Breeding California worms at home

Within a week after settling, check whether the worms are willing to move into the new substrate. If the surface of the worms is clean, and they themselves are mobile, this is evidence of their well-being.
When the worms are lethargic, not active, do not try to hide from the light, these are signs of their severe damage by various pesticides from the new food for them. You may then have to prepare new compost for the worms from another source of organic matter. But such a need is extremely rare.

Worms need moisture, do not forget to water the substrate regularly.

The optimum moisture content of the substrate is 80%. Earthworms are very sensitive to fluctuations in compost moisture, especially to its decrease.
Watering the substrate is carried out using a watering can with small holes.
Do not water the compost directly from the faucet. Use pre-settled (3-5 days) water with a temperature of 20-24 degrees.

The first feeding of worms is carried out a few days after settling in the compost. The feeding operation is as follows. On a quarter of the surface of the ridge or box, fresh food is layered 3-5 cm thick and evenly distributed.

As the worms eat food, a layer of food of 5-7 cm is again applied to the substrate. At this stage, the food is applied to the entire surface.
And so periodically continue to feed the earthworms until the box is completely filled, or until the height of the ridge reaches 50-60 cm.

Usually food is added to the worms every 1.5-2 weeks.

The frequency of feeding depends on the number of worms in the box (in the ridge) and on the temperature of their content. When the temperature approaches the optimum (24 degrees), the activity of the worms and the amount of food they consume increase.

Earthworms need oxygen, therefore, after reaching a substrate layer thickness of 20 cm or more, it is regularly loosened (pierced). To pierce the ridge, use special vermicompost pitchforks with round ends or rounded pins.
Loosening the compost (without mixing the layers) is carried out 2 times a week; it is pierced to the depth of worms and cocoons.

With the stable work of earthworms in a box (ridge), the compost is stratified into three zones.
The first upper zone - the surface horizon (5-7 cm) is a fresh substrate, which is food for worms. Its amount is constantly changing, as the worms feed on it constantly, and new layers are periodically added.
The middle zone (10-30 cm) is working, the bulk of the worms live in it.
The third lower zone is a vermicompost accumulator; as the worms work, it constantly increases in height.

The process of obtaining biohumus ends when the nutrient substrate is completely processed by worms. The duration of the process is usually 3-4 months from the beginning of the settlement of worms in the substrate.

When the container is filled with ready biohumus, the worms with part of the old substrate are transplanted into another container.
Everything starts anew.

Exemption from worms of ready biohumus

The need to sample worms arises when the nutrient substrate is completely processed. This is also required when the density of breeding worms exceeds the optimal population density (from 30 to 50 thousand pieces per 1 sq.m).

Worms can be transplanted from biohumus into another container manually, but this is not easy. In order to choose worms from ready-made vermicompost without hassle, it is better to stop feeding them for a while (an additional few days) to let them get hungry.
Then, on 1/3 of the biohumus area, a portion (5-7 cm layer) of new food is laid out, into which hungry worms move on their own. Place straw cuttings (or torn paper) dipped in sugar solution on top. Also, to attract worms, you can use the pulp of vegetables and fruits or a layer of humus (5-10 cm).

After two or three days, the layer of feed, together with the worms that filled it, is removed from the biohumus.
This operation must be repeated three times within three weeks to collect all the worms (including the juveniles that emerged from the cocoons).

To facilitate the release of ready-made vermicompost from worms, you can use boxes of a special design with a mesh bottom. When such a box is filled with biohumus, another box with feed is placed on it - so that the bottom of the upper box lies on the substrate of the lower one. Worms from the lower box crawl into the upper box with fresh food.
Unfortunately, we do not sell special boxes for breeding earthworms with a mesh bottom, as well as double boxes with a mesh in the middle.

In the garden version of a special double box with a grid in the middle (see the title photo), the worms are separated horizontally. When one part of the box is filled with vermicompost, fresh food is placed in the second adjacent part. Then the worms themselves crawl there through the holes in the partition of the box, leaving pure biohumus for further use.

Raw vermicompost freed from worms is a smearing mass of dark color. It is collected with a scoop, dried to 40-50% moisture, sifted through a sieve and packaged for storage.
Dried vermicompost can be stored at ambient temperature (from -20 to +30 degrees). But freezing biohumus is still not recommended in order to exclude the loss of its biological activity.

Wintering of earthworms

The best place to keep vermiculture in winter is a heated room.
The thickness of the substrate depends on the frequency of feeding the worms.
Since the top layer of the substrate dries quickly in a warm room, it must be moistened regularly.

When keeping vermiculture in winter outdoors, the substrate should not be moistened. When the temperature reaches -5 degrees, the substrate 40-50 cm high is covered with a layer of fermented manure (20-30 cm), watered and covered with straw (hay) to a total height of 100-120 cm.
The top layer 5 cm thick can freeze through, which is not dangerous for worms, since it is a heat insulator. Worms in the process of life emit heat, the amount of which depends on the number of individuals.

In the spring, awakened worms will feed on manure or top layer compost.

Features of breeding earthworms in the apartment

When breeding earthworms in an apartment, there may be a smell from the waste that the worms feed on; insects may appear.
As a rule, the smell is emitted by the food that has just been put in (and if animal protein is present in the food, then the smell can be quite unpleasant).
In this case, the new food can be sprinkled on top with ready-made vermicompost. EM preparations can also be used to combat unpleasant odors. You can bring a certain amount of land from the dacha and periodically sprinkle the substrate with it. You can cover the substrate with raw burlap.

Ready biohumus has no unpleasant odor, it smells like ordinary earth. In addition, earthworms secrete substances that serve as a kind of deodorant.

The use of biohumus

The main benefit of keeping earthworms is that you can make valuable fertilizer from your free waste.
It is enough to purchase 1.5-3 thousand worms and populate them in compost in order to obtain an amount of vermicompost within a year sufficient to fertilize a plot of 3-4 acres.
A population of 1,500 earthworms populated on 2-3 square meters of compost is able to provide your garden plot with two tons of first-class fertilizer.

Biohumus produced by earthworms can be used for growing all types of plants (indoor flowers, seedlings, vegetables in open and closed ground, for planting fruit crops, grapes, medicinal plants). Especially useful is the use of biohumus in greenhouses, where it is very important to exclude the possibility of diseases.

Thus, by producing vermicompost on your own, you rationally use waste and save money, getting a high-quality product that you are sure of. Indeed, in packages with purchased substrates, stones, sticks, bones and other garbage are often found.

If you use biohumus to grow indoor plants, then earthworms or their cocoons may accidentally get into the flower pot. Do not worry: earthworms cannot bring any harm to plants.

With the beginning of the use of biohumus, in 2006, in our summer cottage, the first tomatoes in the open field ripened in the third decade of July.
We practice the principles of organic farming. We grow plants in raised fenced beds. We use a Fokin flat cutter.
We do not use pesticides and mineral fertilizers. We use only biohumus for root feeding of plants. For foliar top dressing, we use BioVit, a complex preparation made from biohumus.

Plant growth stimulator BioVit

BioVit is a powerful biologically active plant growth stimulator, due to which it is possible to increase the yield by another 30-40%.
With BioVit minerals get to plants in the form prepared for them. The fact is that the plant is not adapted to consume mineral solutions directly. If mineral salts are introduced artificially, then the plant will increase the water content of its tissues in response to this. That is, the fruit will weigh more, and there will be less useful substances in it. After all, if a person consumes a lot of salt, he will feel thirsty - the same thing happens with a plant.

In nature, the plant consumes mineral salts through microorganisms that transport the mineral to the roots, converting it along the way. Or the plant consumes salts of fulvic and humic acids, the reactions of which with minerals actively occur in the soil in the presence of a sufficient amount of humus. BioVit contains directly salts of humic and fulvic acids, which are a complete complex of NPK (the main nutrients needed by the plant).
BioVit also contains microelements in a normalized form: copper, manganese, zinc, etc. Microelements in a small amount are vital for a plant, since they are actively involved in almost all of its life processes. For example, manganese is directly involved in photosynthesis.

The use of biohumus and BioVita allows you to organize a complete root and foliar nutrition of plants. This best affects the growth, flowering and yield of plants, allows you to get environmentally friendly and nutritious fruits.

Sergei Grigorievich Polovitsa, ( [email protected])
Director of Vermi-Land LLC (Kyiv, Ukraine)
www.vermilend.narod.ru

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home< Разведение Калифорнийских червей в домашних условиях.

Breeding California worms at home.

Breeding the red Californian worm (KKCh) at home is a very profitable occupation, because the food for the KKCh is any organic waste that is processed by the worm into a balanced environmentally friendly biohumus fertilizer. Also, the Californian worm multiplies very quickly, which allows the worm to be sold biomass and by the piece to fishermen's shops and agricultural enterprises, as protein supplements for animals and birds.

The best type of earthworm for breeding in domestic and industrial conditions is the red California worm. Before buying worms, please note that the worms must be mobile and red in color. At first, the worm should be in its native substrate in order to get used to the new food.

A high-quality breeding stock of the red California worm (family) should consist of at least 1500 individuals.

For breeding at home, the California worm is used in boxes, piles (lodges), compost heaps or pits. Organic waste is used as food for worms: manure, bird droppings, plant tops, fallen leaves, straw, wood chips, sawdust, food vegetable waste, cardboard, paper, etc.

The basic rules for preparing the substrate (compost) for the further colonization of worms:

• do not use chlorinated water to moisten the compost. Chlorine is poison for worms.

  Growing earthworms in the garden and in the apartment

  If the water is chlorinated, you need to stand it for 2-3 days, the chlorine will go away, you can also use rainwater

• it is forbidden to use fresh manure, because in the process of manure burning, its temperature will rise to 70-800C and the worm will die
• it is not recommended to use old manure that has lain for more than 3 years, it contains a small amount of useful substances for worms.

Organic waste is collected in heaps and moistened. In this way, they rot for 1-3 months.

Compost pile dimensions:

• collar width 1.2-2 meters
• height 20-30 cm
• any length.

The California worm easily gets used to different feeds, therefore, when using different composts, we recommend doing a trial colonization. A little ready-made substrate is placed in the box and 50-100 adult worms are populated. If in a day they are all alive, then the compost is suitable for further settlement. If 5-10 worms died, then the reason for this may be increased acidity or alkalinity. With increased acidity, add a little limestone or ordinary chalk, with increased alkalinity, add straw or sawdust to the compost, you can also add tops of plants.

Favorable conditions for breeding the California worm:

• acidity 6.5-7.5 PH
• temperature 15-220C
• compost humidity 70-80%.

Breeding of Californian worms at home begins in the warm season, the worm is settled in compost, 1-3 families per 1 m2, and after a couple of months they begin to select worms that have already multiplied. The worm is chosen in this way: the worm is not fed for 2-3 days, so that they get a little hungry, and then 7-10 cm of fresh compost are placed on top of the heap or box, and this layer is removed in a day. The main amount of worms, up to 60-80%, enters the fresh compost. Only the juveniles and cocoons of the worm remain in the lower substrate. We repeat the procedure for sampling worms several times. It is not possible to select all the worms in this way, 3-4% remains in the processed compost, which is already a fertilizer - vermicompost. Worms selected in this way are populated in new heaps, boxes, or used for sale.

With the onset of winter and temperatures below -50C, the piles must be well insulated. To do this, fresh compost or fermented manure 25-40 cm thick is laid on the piles, watered and covered with hay or straw 40-50 cm high. The top layer of 5-10 cm will probably freeze in winter, but it will not pose a mortal danger to worms, since it is a heat insulator. In the spring, the worms will feed on the top layer compost, 2/3 of your heap will already be biohumus.

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Industrial breeding of Californian worms

When designing a farm for industrial breeding of Californian worms, it is necessary to clearly define its direction - whether it will grow only the broodstock of worms or, along with this, industrial production of vermicompost and biomass will be organized. Based on this, the number of lodges is calculated and the size of the area on which they will be placed is determined. At the same time, knowing the number of lodges and the approximate number of worms in them, they calculate the amount of food they need and its constant availability, as well as the availability of water sources. Water is necessary to moisten the substrate - food and must meet certain requirements according to the chemical characteristics.

Bed preparation

Historically, in the industrial breeding of earthworms, as a unit of measurement, the bed means the area of ​​​​the ridge (or trench, depending on the method) with a length of 2 m and a width of 1 m, i.e. area 2m2. This unit of measurement is used in all calculations related to productivity, nutrition, reproduction, yield, etc. Usually, up to 100,000 worms of various sizes with cocoons can be contained in a bed. Such one bed gives annually about 600 kg of vermicompost if it is produced, and not worms are propagated, and about 400-450 kg of vermicompost when breeding earthworms, i.e. in the stage when the entire space of the bed is saturated. Vermifarming is considered optimal, which consists of 1200 lodges, occupying a usable area of ​​at least 1 hectare of land.

When marking the territory (with an open breeding method), it is necessary to check if there are any traces of a mole on it, which greedily eats earthworms. Penetrating into the bed, one mole in a short time can destroy the entire population. When these animals are found, it is impossible to use crotocides or any chemicals to destroy them: a dead mole sent to the bed will kill with this poison all the earthworms that will eat its rotten meat.

The way out is to install a metal mesh with small diameter cells around the entire perimeter at a depth of 50-60 cm with access to the surface to a height of at least 30 cm.

However, there are cases when, even at the same time, moles, in order to get to earthworms, broke through a passage at a depth of more than 60 cm and still fell into the active zone of the bed. Farms use a metal mesh with cells of 16 × 15 mm. The net is installed along the entire width of the bed, and its edges are bent so that two wings are formed at a height of 25 cm on all four sides of the bed.

Stock orientation

The bed is positioned so that all excess water flows out of them. If there is standing water under the bed, the worms die. If there is a choice, then in areas of high windiness or in the case when the strongest winds blow in some constant prevailing direction, the bed is located in the direction of the wind. Earthworms are very afraid of the wind.

When planning and breaking down the area for farming, areas for heaving and fermentation of the substrate are determined. They must be located within the territory of the holding or near it. It is also desirable to provide ways for transporting the substrate to the beds, etc.

The area is marked with wooden pegs 50-60 cm long, which are driven into the ground every meter along the entire length of the future bed. This will subsequently allow you to accurately populate the bed with the right number of worms per square meter. To facilitate the work of performing the necessary analyzes of product quality, humus and the number of worms, it is recommended to first make longitudinal beds of the same length, a multiple of 2 m (2, 4, 6 m, etc.), which are called sectors.

The choice of bed width depends on a number of factors, in particular, the availability of labor, mechanization equipment (rubber-running tractors, trailers with sides opening on three sides, etc.). Usually they make a bed 2 m wide, 50 m long and leave passages between them of such a width that the maneuverability of the tractor and trailer is ensured.

indoors

The above applies to the arrangement of outdoor areas. Here you can grow worms and get high productivity in the warm season. In winter conditions, worms significantly reduce their activity, and caring for them becomes more complicated. Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to switch to the industrial production of worms and biohumus in enclosed spaces with relatively high positive round-the-clock temperatures.

In enclosed spaces (various agricultural buildings), worms can be cultivated on a concrete floor, with beds, and on racks in wooden or metal boxes, arranging them on floors. The conditions of detention in enclosed spaces must meet the same requirements that apply to conditions in open areas.

It should be noted the advantages of keeping worms indoors compared to those outdoors. These advantages apply both to the service processes and to the end result. It has been observed that 1 m2 of area indoors yields twice as much marketable biomass as in open ground. The yield of organic fertilizer - vermicompost - is also much higher.

For breeding uterine worms, standard beds are used. In this case, the density can be from 1.5 to 12 thousand copies per 1 m2.

substrate (food)

There is a term "feeding". Top dressing is carried out with organic matter, the amount of which per year per bed is 1000 kg. Worms process this organic matter by 60%, and consume and assimilate the remaining 40% to maintain their existence.

How to grow California worms at home?

To obtain biohumus, an organic substrate (food for worms) is prepared in advance (2-8 months in advance). Under the conditions of access of water and air oxygen under the influence of microorganisms living in the organic substrate (fungi, actinomycetes, bacteria, organic residues decompose (mineralize) and humify (secondary synthesis). These processes can be compared with decomposition processes. Simple intermediate products are formed as a result of hydrolytic cleavage proteins, carbohydrates and lipids.

Humic acids increase the permeability of plant cell membranes and activate their enzymatic systems. During the period of plant stresses (drought, excessive moisture, cold, etc.), the stimulating effect of physiologically active organic compounds of biohumus humic acids is manifested. The presence of a significant amount of calcium humates in biohumus, which contributes to the formation of a water-resistant granular structure, provides aeration and moisture access.

Various organic wastes are used as food for worms. Therefore, they should be prepared for feeding taking into account the method of storage (fermentation) of the substrate with different agrochemical parameters. It is advisable to store the substrate in heaps using a hot-cold storage method, which significantly reduces the germination of weed seeds, the number of which in 1 ton of bedding cattle manure is from 5 thousand to 7 million seeds; in 1 ton of liquid pig manure - from 200 to 700 thousand pieces; in 1 ton of semi-liquid chicken manure - from 20 to 80 thousand pieces.

Organic Substrate Formulation

The substrate has a double meaning for worms: firstly, it serves as their habitat; secondly, it is food, thanks to which a certain level of their vital activity is ensured. To obtain a high-quality substrate, a number of specific requirements are imposed. The humidity of the initial substrate is adjusted to 70-80%, it should not contain solid contaminants such as stones, metal, wood, glass, etc., the acidity should be neutral, iron oxides should not exceed 10%. The quality of the substrate improves if it is well mixed and the waste of melons and fruits and vegetables is added in combination with 10% lime waste. The main condition is the presence of air in the substrate and its uniformity, as well as the ratio between carbon and nitrogen. Mixing of the substrate makes it possible to ensure the alignment of the mixture in terms of humidity, to create conditions for the vital activity of microorganisms and the flow of biometric processes.

Substrate fermentation

The prepared substrate goes through a fermentation stage, during which the eggs and larvae of helminths, as well as weed seeds, die. Fermentation can be carried out both in natural and accelerated mode. The full period of feed maturation in summer is 2-3 months, in winter 3-5, storage can last up to 8-10 months. When storing compost, the determining factor for its readiness is the ratio of carbon to nitrogen, which should be about 20.

To speed up the fermentation, organic waste is placed in heaps, into which hot steam at a temperature of 50-60°C is then injected through pipes. A substrate deprived of the possibility of self-heating is spread in a layer up to 20-30 cm thick, 1-1.5 m wide, moistened to 70%-80% of full wettability and allowed to stand for 10-15 days. Before wetting, crushed lime, chalk, etc. 5-10 kg/t are applied to the surface and worms are populated from 1.5 to 2.5 thousand individuals of the mother brood per 1 m2, evenly distributing them over the surface. It is desirable to do this at sunset, because worms do not tolerate solar radiation very well and die.

Worms gradually burrow deep into the substrate during the night, but they will not feed on it, they will only master it for 6 days. The surface of the populated substrate is covered with chopped straw or burlap. After 3-5 days after settlement, the substrate is moistened, but not much - 50-60%. Further moisturize in the optimal limit of 75 ± 10%. The temperature should be 22 + 5 ° C.

Growing worms in winter

In winter, it is necessary to constantly control the temperature in different layers of the bed, but at the same time it is impossible to destroy the layers too much (each intervention causes undesirable consequences). The most suitable thermometer that can be immersed at 40-60 cm (soil thermometer). It allows you to make a reading on the scale from above. In a closed room, first of all, it is necessary to ensure that the bedding (base) of the lodge is not heat-conducting. Concrete is especially cold. If the vermiculture is kept on the ground, then the litter should be made of a polymer film or other material, and protected from frost from above.

In a heated room, the advantage is that during the winter period the quantitative composition increases by 3-4 times, but active top dressing is needed here. The top layer can dry out, so the substrate must be moistened at the level of 20-30 mm of precipitation. The thickness of the bed depends on how often manure or organic matter is needed.

California worms

There are a huge number of types of worms, but few are able to reproduce and live in artificial conditions. Economically attractive and universal in their biological characteristics are worms that belong to the "red" species. They are used as an excellent bait for fishing, production of biohumus, liquid fertilizers and protein meal. Why do some earthworms have the commercial name "California"? There is a pretty simple answer to this. In the United States of America in the 50s of the 20th century, intensive cultivation of this worm began, from which its commercial name came. It was obtained as a result of the long work of the American Thomas Jason Barrett (Thomas J. Barrett, 1884 - 1975). He is the founder of industrial vermicultivation in the USA. The progenitor of the Californian worm and prospector is a common dung worm.

What do California red worms look like?

The body is elongated, in an adult it is slightly flattened in the middle. Color from dark red to brown-red, sometimes you can see the mother-of-pearl tones. The body is divided into segments with two setae each. Thickness is from 3 to 5 mm, average length is from 8 to 10 cm, adults reach up to 14 cm. Weight is from 0.4 to 1 gram, body temperature is 16-22 C.

Fertility

After fertilization, two cocoons (capsules) are formed, one for each individual. Cocoons open after maturation after 3-4 weeks (depending on temperature, substrate moisture and acidity). An average of 4 to 8 young worms are born from each capsule. In the cold season, sexual activity decreases, as well as in especially hot months. As for the moderately warm season, sexual activity increases significantly.

CALIFORNIA WORM

The worm lives 13-15 years, after two or three months of life under moderate conditions for it, it is able to produce new cocoons.

Optimal temperature

Maintaining the temperature is the main task, which is especially relevant both in winter and in summer. The maximum production of vermicompost and the highest sexual activity at a substrate temperature within 20 C. Excessive cold below 0 C or high - above 35 C negatively affects the worm, under these conditions it dies like any other species. Pay close attention to vermicultivation conditions. The optimal number is considered to be 750-1500 individuals per square meter, with a substrate height of about 25 cm. When working with ridges and piles, it is worth considering the temperature regime on the floor, since in winter a large amount of cold comes from below. It is necessary to measure the temperature not only of the environment, but also of the entire volume of the substrate (feed).

Advantages and disadvantages

A mature worm is considered after two to three months from the moment it leaves its cocoon. Two mature individuals produce 1000 to 2000 young heirs per year. It can be calculated that in five generations, one pair produces a large number of heirs, which sometimes need to be divided into different ridges or boxes. If the concentration of worms is too high, the rate of their development will be slowed down. An excessive amount in a certain volume, where they grow and multiply, does not allow some worms, especially young ones, to reach areas of the substrate that have not yet been eaten by their neighbors. At the same time, there should be a constant average temperature and humidity, a sufficient amount of moisture. Good vermicultivation conditions make it possible to obtain up to 15 young worms from one cocoon.

The Californian worm is much more active than an ordinary earthworm, it reproduces faster and processes the substrate, lives longer (up to 15 years compared to 4 years of ordinary manure).

The disadvantage is that they do not like the cold. At negative temperatures, they are not able to go deep into the ground, sufficient for self-preservation - the entire population moves to warmer areas. If everything freezes, individuals gather in one lump and die. It can be concluded that the cultivation of the "Californian" in the winter is associated with maintaining the optimal temperatures necessary for their life.

Buy California Worms

Agrodrim is engaged in breeding and sale. You can buy in unlimited quantities and in any container, for example in a plastic container, bucket or a special box with a substrate at low prices. We will ensure safety for the entire period of transportation. You can buy worms for fishing by self-delivery from our farm. For the production of vermicompost and breeding, we recommend purchasing a population of worms for breeding.

Buy worms for fishingBuy a biohumus

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03.08.2017

The red Californian earthworm was bred by scientists in the US state of California (hence its name) as a result of breeding work back in 1959.

The worm has an elongated segmented body, slightly flattened from the side of the abdomen and a rich dark red (burgundy) color. An adult can reach nine centimeters in length and up to five millimeters in thickness. The invertebrate, like all members of the worm family, is a hermaphrodite. Life expectancy is approximately sixteen years.

Today, this variety of worms is bred in personal subsidiary farms, in summer cottages and orchards in order to obtain first-class " Biohumus”, which is considered one of the best biologically active and environmentally friendly natural organic fertilizers. Formed " Biohumus”as a result of the processing of organic plant residues, and it is this work that Californian worms do with success, grinding and fertilizing the soil.

Invertebrates are also an excellent nutritious food for poultry and are widely used in recreational fishing as a very effective bait for fish.

Acquisition

In order to obtain a quality Biohumus» It is necessary to purchase earthworms of the Californian breed. This can be done in specialized farms. You should not buy worms from your hands, because you will not receive guarantees that they were not dug up a kilometer from your house. At a minimum, a business or farm that trades in California worms must have a special permit issued by the services that control their activities.

It is advisable to buy worms immediately in a large batch (at least one and a half thousand individuals), because only this size of the colony will have genetic stability. When buying, it is necessary to choose live and lively worms that have a juicy red color, and in the initial population, both young and cocoons of invertebrates must be present.

During the day, one adult is able to process the amount of organic matter, which is equal to its own weight.

In a favorable environment, a Californian worm colony can grow more than five hundred (!) times within a year. Even under natural conditions, the density of worms can be from one hundred to twenty thousand (!) Individuals per square meter of soil.

Substrate preparation

The optimal nutrient medium for growing Californian worms is compost (heap or pit), into which rotted manure is preliminarily laid (when fresh is added, the worms will die), chicken manure, mowed grass, food waste (potato peels, peels of fruits, vegetables and root crops, tops ) and carrion.

Large fractions of waste should preferably be crushed or twisted in a meat grinder, since worms do not have teeth, therefore they are not able to chew food.

You should not put citrus waste in the compost, as they can increase the acidity of the substrate, and worms will not survive in an acidic and fermented environment. For this reason, it is desirable to add crushed eggshells and fine river sand to the compost, the grains of which help invertebrates to better digest food.

It must be remembered that worms feed exclusively on rotted plant residues, so it is better not to put the remains of animal food in the compost.

Excellent food for invertebrates are dairy waste, spoiled bakery products, used tea leaves and coffee grounds.

It is advisable to turn the compost gently from time to time (so as not to harm the breeding population) to ensure oxygen enters the substrate.

The quality of the finished compost can be checked in the following way: several adult worms are placed on the wet surface of the substrate, and then they are observed. If the subjects do not crawl inside, but stay on top for a long time, then the environment for their existence is not suitable and additional composting is required.

To avoid an unpleasant smell and prevent the appearance of all kinds of insects, in particular flies and fruit flies, it is better to build a compost pit away from residential buildings, somewhere in the shade of trees.

For the winter period, the compost pit with worms must be covered with a strong plastic wrap.

Breeding worms

For breeding California worms, you will need two containers (larger and smaller). A smaller container should have a perforated bottom so that excess moisture can drain through the holes, since these invertebrates react very poorly to excess moisture.

The finished substrate is placed in a smaller container and the worms are launched there, after which it is placed in a larger container that acts as a pallet. It is advisable to cover the top of the worms with a dense cloth.

The humidity of the substrate must be at least thirty-five percent. It is advisable to take water to moisten it not from the tap, since the chlorine content in it can be detrimental to worms, but use either rainwater or stand it for a while.

By the way, the water that will pass through the substrate layer and accumulate in the second container is an excellent valuable fertilizer, since it washes out Biohumus from the first container. This water is popularly called "vermichaem" and it is useful to water potted flowers and seedlings with it.

Feeding invertebrates is desirable only after they have eaten the previous portion of food, so as not to provoke the fermentation process.

The optimum temperature for the life of the colony should be about twenty-five degrees with a plus sign. With a decrease in temperature, the worms will feed and multiply worse, and at five degrees of heat they may even die.

It is noteworthy that, unlike their ordinary counterparts, Californian worms do not crawl to the surface during rain, preferring to remain in the substrate.

Useful properties of "Biohumus"

Ready " Biohumus"It has no smell and smells like ordinary earth, although it exceeds ordinary humus in humus content by eight (!) times, so its application perfectly heals and fertilizes the soil.

« Biohumus"contains a huge variety of enzymes, growth hormones and biologically active substances. It is impossible to “overdo” and “overdo it” with the introduction of this fertilizer into the soil!

The table below shows only some of the beneficial trace elements contained in Biohumus:

« Biohumus”, as a rule, they are applied to the soil in spring, pouring it into pre-prepared holes or rows intended for sowing seeds of cultivated plants, and also added to the soil for growing indoor and ornamental plants.

Water infusions Biohumus» is used for pre-soaking seeds, which significantly improves their germination, or used for watering seedlings and feeding flowers.

Their longevity and incredible productivity, which is twice that of their relatives, are the main reasons for their breeding. But every case has its own subtleties. And, it would seem, such a simple activity as breeding worms still requires some knowledge in the field of vermicultivation.

Description

But red California worms are also capable of this, despite the fact that they were bred artificially. Due to their performance, they are in demand in industrial production.

It is red Californian worms that produce, which helps to recover both after radiation and after “heavy” crops.

Basic growing rules

California worms are picky creatures, and you should not worry about how to breed them in the country. If you change their diet, then do it gradually. And their fertility depends on comfortable conditions. To create them, you can add a little sand to the substrate, and pour a little shell under the straw, which will play the role of the worm's roof.

Location selection

Worms are unpretentious to the place of settlement. The only exception is the cold or unstable season - from November to April. During this period, the worm hole must be either well insulated or moved to a place where the temperature will be above 0 ° C.

So, the family is settled in any convenient container. It can be a self-built wooden structure or a large flower. In general, everything that will be well ventilated and does not take up much space.

Important! The worm can not be placed in the sun in the summer, otherwise your wards will die from the drying of the substrate.

Choice of a worm

The design itself should have approximately the following parameters: a width of 1–1.5 m and a height of 40–50 cm. But they can be correlated depending on the number of your worms.
The California worm is a hardy animal and sometimes does not need artificial breeding conditions at all, so here's what you need to know about wormhole:

1. This may be an ordinary hole in.
2. The place of settlement should not be treated with chemical agents in the past.
3. A safe place where pests are excluded (and this,).
4. Ability to insulate during the cold season.
5. A ventilation system of any kind so that the worms do not rot along with.

home improvement

Can accommodate 20 units. If 5 of them die, this will mean that the substrate has a high level of acidity or alkalinity. To lower it, you need to add it to limestone.

Feeding

The average individual weighs approximately 0.5 g. The worm processes such an amount of food per day that is equal to its weight. With a minimum settlement of worms (50 individuals per square meter), 5 kg per year will be processed. Here are examples of than necessaryfeed california worms at home.

Why do they keep and breed such seemingly unattractive creatures as earthworms?

Mainly for the production of biohumus. Biohumus is a valuable organic fertilizer, the main life product of worms. The worms themselves can also be used as food for various domestic animals (fish, amphibians and reptiles, as well as for some species of birds and rodents). But, since my pets (cat and Japanese finches) categorically refused to eat worms, I keep worms exclusively for biohumus. The bulk of the worm population lives in my summer cottage. There is equipped with a special worm shelter, which is covered with spruce branches and film for the winter. But I also keep some of the worms in a city apartment.

They live in a terrarium, in the bottom of which a certain number of holes have been made so that excessive moisture does not accumulate. Naturally, the terrarium must stand on some kind of pallet. The terrarium is in a dark corner under the table, because the worms do not like light.

Worms feed on almost any organic matter - potato peels, various kinds of kitchen waste, used tea and coffee brewing, bread crusts, soaked newspapers, and so on. Do not abuse citrus fruits (lemon, orange and tangerine peels), they strongly acidify the substrate. It is also better to refrain from using animal waste - meat, egg white and yolk, etc. - mainly for two reasons, firstly, because of the unpleasant smell that occurs when animal protein decomposes, and secondly, if you breed worms in the country, meat and other animal waste can attract rats and mice. Worms do not eat animal fats (milk, etc.).

Some say it's not worth feeding animal protein to worms because worms are vegetarians. But they are more scavengers than vegetarians. In my opinion, decomposed vegetable protein is not very different from decomposed animal protein. Although it is possible that worms prefer vegetable protein, they are also able to eat animal protein. After all, they feed on the simplest nematodes. There are very few animals in nature that have strict dietary restrictions; there are very few absolute vegetarians or absolute predators. Cats and dogs, being predators, eat grass with pleasure. Cows, along with grass, absorb a sufficient amount of animal protein in the form of insects and other small animals. The absence of strict restrictions on food allows animals to adapt to changing environmental conditions. An example is pigs, whose ancestors are known to have been carnivores. But back to worms.

From time to time, worms need to be given eggshells and fine sand. Sand serves worms as well as pebbles for chickens - to improve digestion. Of course, all food given to worms must be minced or ground in some other way, since worms do not have teeth and cannot chew food. To all this, one should not forget about watering, since with a substrate moisture content of less than 35%, the worms will die within a week. Under no circumstances should chlorinated water be used for irrigation. Chlorine is poison for worms. Either rainwater or well-settled water is used.

I add food periodically in small layers. When the terrarium is full, I transplant the worms with part of the old substrate into another terrarium, and start all over again. And biohumus from the old terrarium is ready for use. Worms can be transplanted manually, but this is a rather tedious task. It is better to stop feeding the worms for a while, let them get hungry. Then put on top straw cutting or torn paper soaked in a sugar solution. You can use the pulp of vegetables and fruits. In two or three days, most of the hungry worms will rise up to the new food, from where they can be collected. In a day, one worm is able to process an amount of organic matter equal to its own weight. And the average weight of an earthworm is 0.5 g. I don’t presume to say what should be the optimal density of worms in a wormhole (terrarium). Under natural conditions, the density of worms is from 100 to 20,000 individuals per square meter.
I use biohumus produced by worms for indoor flowers and for seedlings. This way I save money and get a product that I am confident in. Because you can never tell exactly where the land you bought from the store comes from. From the items that I found in bags with flower and garden soil, one could make a fairly extensive exposure - stones, sticks, bones, and even a whole anthill with live ants and ant eggs. If you use biohumus for indoor flowers, then individual worms or their cocoons may accidentally get into the flower pot. Some flower growers, for some reason, are afraid of this. However, worms cannot bring any harm to flowers. They do not gnaw on roots, because, as I said, they do not have teeth. They can only eat a rotten root, but with rotten roots, the plant will die without worms. But if you don't like to know that there are worms in your flower pot, then it's easier to just pick them by hand than to try to poison them with something or, as some advise, lower the pot into water and wait for the worms to choke. So you can only destroy the plant. Worms can live in water for quite a long time (up to a week).

Some unpleasant moments that may arise when breeding worms.

This is, firstly, the smell of the waste that you feed the worms, and, secondly, the appearance of all kinds of extraneous insects. Ready biohumus has no unpleasant odor, it smells like ordinary earth. In addition, worms secrete certain substances that serve as a kind of deodorant. However, freshly laid food that the worms have not yet begun to eat may emit an odor. Much here depends on the type of food, soaked newspapers or tea leaves do not emit a special smell, and coffee leaves even have a quite pleasant smell. But if there is animal protein in the food, the smell can be quite nasty. In this case, the new feed should be sprinkled with ready-made vermicompost. Some, however, use EM preparations, such as Baikal or Vozrozhdenie, to combat unpleasant odors. Personally, in the fall I bring a certain amount of land from the dacha and periodically sprinkle the substrate with it. I think that this is not bad for seedlings either, since biohumus in its properties approaches the soil in which seedlings are to grow in summer.
As for insects, Drosophila, sometimes podura, are most often planted in the substrate. By themselves, these creatures are completely harmless. They cannot harm worms. Rather the opposite. After all, it is known that worms feed on the simplest nematodes, bacteria, fungal spores and other microflora and microfauna. True, whether worms eat eggs and larvae of fruit flies or fools, I don’t know. Be that as it may, it is unlikely that anyone will like the presence of various midges in the apartment. Since the appearance of these insects is primarily associated with the increased humidity of the substrate with which you feed the worms, you can fight them by reducing watering (however, without stopping completely, so as not to kill the worms). As I was told on one forum, you can use sticky tape for flies to kill fruit flies, if you stick it in strips on the lid of the terrarium. Podur can be caught on a piece of raw potatoes. They love her very much and gather on her in large numbers. Do not use pesticides, you can poison the worms.

Where to get worms?
1. buy red Californian worms.
2. buy specially bred Russian (for example, Vladimir)
3. dig up in the garden, in the forest, collect on the street after rain.

Before discussing these three options, I will make one important digression. Whichever option you choose, you will still not be able to find exactly the same food for the worms that they are used to. And the main advantage of keeping worms is that you can get valuable fertilizer from your free waste. There are different opinions about how easily worms switch to a new food. Professor Igonin used to be of the opinion that worms get used to new food rather hard. Some of his colleagues believe that this is not such a significant issue. Yes, and Anatoly Mikhailovich himself (after he started selling "Vladimir Prospectors" :) now speaks not so categorically. Judging by my own experience, I can say that it is still not worth it to abruptly transfer worms to a new food. You can lose if not the entire population, then most of it. Well, if by this time the worms have already laid cocoons. Young, newly born worms get used to the food that they tried at birth. If it is nevertheless necessary to transfer the worms to a new food, then this should be done gradually, gradually mixing it into the old one.
From this point of view, consider all three of the above options. Since the ability to adapt to new conditions depends to a large extent on the worms themselves. If you decide to buy "Californians", then make sure that they sell you really Californian worms, and not ordinary ones dug up right here under the fence. Sometimes, under the guise of juvenile worms, a nematode is sold. The seller must have a permit to sell worms issued by the quarantine authority. Red California worms have high productivity, but are quite picky about the substrate and the conditions of detention. They are suitable only for home maintenance, that is, they live only in warmth. If you want to settle them in the country, then most likely they will freeze in the first winter. As for the Vladimir worms, they are undoubtedly more adapted to our conditions. This is a good option if you don't mind spending money on worms. If you are going to keep worms not only at home, but also in the country, or only in the country, then, in my opinion, it is better for you to dig them up in a nearby forest or in a field. And move them to your worm house. These will be the worms most adapted to your conditions. Do not forget to just dig them up along with the ground, and gradually add your new food to this ground. The most adaptable of those that I have seen, in my opinion, are the Moscow worms, which I picked up on the street after the rain. Apparently they are so accustomed to living in difficult urban conditions and eating all sorts of rubbish that they are not so easy to lime.
Well, in a nutshell, that's all. Read more about worms in A.M. Igonina "How to increase soil fertility tenfold with the help of earthworms."

More about biohumus

Composition of biohumus and its properties
The main product of compost processing with the help of technological worms is the humus organic fertilizer biohumus - worm compost.

Biohumus of 50% humidity contains 12-15% of humus.
The agrochemical value of dry biohumus is as follows:
. humus - 25-35%;
. nitrogen - 0.8-2%;
. phosphorus - 0.8-2%;
. potassium - 0.7-1.2%;
. magnesium - 0.3-0.5%;
. calcium - 2-3%;
. acidity pH = 6.9-7.2;
. microflora - 2*10**12 cells/g;
. fulvic, humic acids;
and all this in a balanced way.

Biohumus It is also a microbiological fertilizer. Its introduction improves the soil. Biocompost exceeds manure and composts in humus content by 4-8 times. Biohumus contains a large amount of enzymes, vitamins, soil antibiotics, plant growth hormones and other biologically active substances. Duration of action of a biohumus - 5 years.

Unlike manure, biohumus does not have inertia - plants react immediately to it. When using biohumus, the growing season of plants is reduced by 1.5-2 weeks. It is proved that the humates contained in biohumus are non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, non-mutagenic, non-toxic for embryos. Biohumus does not contain weed seeds. Biohumus has no smell, it is pleasant to hold it in hands.
During storage, biohumus can even dry out, but will not lose its qualities.

The use of biohumus
Biohumus can be applied in the spring for digging, it can be poured into seedling holes, in rows for sowing seeds.

Biohumus is added to planting mixtures for growing seedlings and indoor plants.

It is impossible to “oversalt” the soil with biohumus, the more you apply, the better.

Biohumus can be infused in water and watered with infusion of plants.

The use of mineral fertilizers mixed with biohumus is exceptionally effective.

Biohumus application rates
Since biohumus has to be saved, its application rates are as follows:
. when planting seedlings in the ground, add 1-2 handfuls of biohumus to the hole;
. when planting tomato seedlings, add 0.5-1 liters of biohumus to the hole;
. for potatoes 0.5-1 liters of biohumus with each potato;
. mulch the soil under the cucumbers with biohumus with a layer of 1-2 cm;
. mulch the soil under the strawberries with biohumus with a layer of 1-2 cm;
. do not dig the soil under fruit trees, but annually mulch with a layer of vermicompost 2-3 cm;
The company "Master Ground", which supplies biohumus fertilizer, recommends the following application rates:
. flowers - 0.5-1.5 kg / sq.m;
. vegetables - up to 2 kg/sq.m or 150 g/rm;
. berry - 0.5-1.0 kg per bush;
. fruit - 1-2 kg for each tree;

Water infusion of biohumus
An aqueous infusion of biohumus is used for soaking seeds, watering seedlings, indoor plants, garden crops.
Mix 1 cup of dry humus fertilizer in 1 bucket of water and let stand for a day. The water takes on the color of tea. The sediment can be used to fertilize indoor flowers.
The resulting infusion soaked the seeds of cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes for 12 hours.

For watering plants, the infusion is diluted with two more parts of water.

Effectively spraying plants with infusion. Fruit trees and shrubs are sprayed after flowering, when the ovary falls off, during the period of fruit growth and the laying of flower buds (in early August). When spraying fruit trees and bushes with biohumus infusion in combination with mulching the soil under the crowns with biohumus, a layer of 1-2 cm, their fruiting becomes regular.

Spraying flower crops three times with an interval of one week accelerates flowering by 1-1.5 weeks.

Soil composition
The basis of the soil - soil minerals make up 80-90% of the weight. They, as a rule, contain almost the entire periodic table, but in a form not available to plants. The smallest particles or flakes of minerals form clay soils, larger ones form loams, and even larger ones form sandy loams and sands. The smallest particles that form clay minerals are in the form of flakes, so their total surface is huge and they are able to hold element ions on their surface in a form accessible to plant nutrition. Some soil microorganisms, with sufficient moisture and heat, are able to dissolve the mineral particles themselves, making the chemical elements bound in them available to plants.
Clay is potentially fertile soil. Tatyana Ugarova calls it "practically inexhaustible clay minerals".
Another component of the soil is organic matter, and its most valuable part is humus - the smallest colloidal particles of organic matter, which have an even larger surface and even better retain element ions, in a form accessible to plant nutrition. Humus is a storehouse of basic nutrients. Small clay and humus particles form compounds of the clay-humus complex, which retains nutrients. That is why it is so important to add some loam to the compost heap.
The third component of the soil is its living component - a community of various soil microorganisms - bacteria, fungi, ciliates, amoebas, algae, microscopic worms, etc. Their biomass in the upper 25 cm soil layer can reach 1.0-1.5 kg / sq. Meter soil and more. Soil microorganisms play the main role in the formation of soil fertility. The majority of microorganisms are bacteria.

Features of light soil
Light sandy soils are easily washed, soluble nutrients, along with water, go to great depths and are lost to plants. Therefore, such soils usually lack potassium, magnesium, and trace elements. But fertilizers should be applied to sandy soils not in autumn, but in spring (main dressing) and summer (in the form of dressings), but at half the dose than on clay soils. Such soils dry out quickly, but are well aerated. Organic fertilizers on sandy soils quickly overripe (mineralize), so they need to be applied more and more often.
Sandy soils are less suitable for gardening than loamy ones. To improve the cohesion of sandy soils, in addition to manure, peat and compost are introduced. If possible, claying is carried out - surface application of clay, loam. When planting orchards in the planting pits of fruit trees, it is very effective to make 2-3 screens of clay composts with manure with a layer of 2-4 cm every 20 cm.

Heavy soil and stagnant water
If there is little organic matter in heavy clay soils, they pass water very poorly. They can accumulate excess carbon dioxide, and although carbon dioxide dissolves some minerals, excess carbon dioxide harms plants.
If there are poorly permeable soil layers at depth, then even small depressions on the soil surface can cause stagnant water in the soil. The same thing happens when there is a close level of groundwater. Stagnant waters displace air from the soil, resulting in souring (gleying) of the soil, which is expressed in the appearance of blue spots with a high content of substances harmful to plants. Beneficial soil microorganisms are inhibited, and harmful anaerobic microflora develops. But if the garden is located on a slope and the water moves slowly through the layers of soil, then there are no negative consequences.

Mandatory digging before winter, loosening and systematic introduction of organic matter - manure, peat, compost, and for acidic soils, the introduction of lime improves the permeability and structure of clay soils.

Soil structure
The soil rich in microorganisms is glued together by mineral and organic colloidal particles into small lumps that do not fit tightly to each other, which allows air to penetrate deep into the soil, and water not to linger on the surface and wet the soil. Clay rich in humus crumbles into small lumps. The passages of microscopic and earthworms, the cavities of dead plant roots also improve the aeration and permeability of the soil.

The addition of lime to heavy clayey acidic soil also improves its permeability and structure.

Soil microorganisms
Some soil microorganisms decompose organic matter introduced into the soil, promote the formation of humus, make nutrients available to plants, others bind atmospheric nitrogen, synthesize organic compounds, and the following convert these compounds into forms available to plants. Soil microorganisms convert phosphorus into a soluble state, even decompose minerals, and first of all, practically inexhaustible clay minerals, delivering the entire "Mendeleev's table" to plants. Some plants are unable to develop normally without a certain microflora. As a result of the vital activity of beneficial soil microorganisms, the soil becomes structural, crumbly.

The life span of bacteria and other soil microorganisms can be very short - from days to several hours. If there is food, it is warm and humid - they multiply very quickly, and die off very quickly if the "food" is over. But their biomass and waste products make up the same "nutrient broth" for plants, which includes not only simple compounds for plant nutrition, but also amino acids, vitamins, auxins, antibiotics and many other nutrients and plant growth stimulants.

Most beneficial soil microorganisms thrive in a slightly acidic and neutral soil pH of 6.5-7.0 in the presence of moisture, air and heat in the range of approximately 15-30°C. Organic matter is essential for the nutrition of soil microorganisms. There are two ways for organics to enter the soil - root excretions of plants with post-harvest residues and the introduction of organics into the soil from the outside, in the form of compost, manure, green manure, etc.

Root selections
Plants do not remain indebted to microorganisms - living plants feed soil microorganisms with their root secretions, and not just dying post-harvest residues, although the roots also make up about a third of the plant's mass. Tatyana Ugarova gives a figure - up to 20% of the total mass of plants are root secretions. The composition of root secretions includes organic acids, sugars, amino acids and much more. According to T. Ugarova, a strong plant abundantly feeds soil microorganisms, while mass reproduction of the rhizosphere (root) beneficial microflora occurs. Moreover, plants stimulate the development of predominantly such microflora that nourishes plants, produces plant growth stimulants, and suppresses microflora harmful to plants.
Composting is an art
- this is how they now evaluate the exceptional importance of compost for the garden. Unfortunately, we still pay very little attention to the correct preparation of compost (if at all). And properly prepared compost is the basis, the guarantee of the future harvest.
When making compost, it is important to add some loam (clay garden soil). Loam also serves as a source of soil microorganisms - "sourdough" and binds nutrients formed during the maturation of compost as part of clay-humus complexes. In particular, clay-humus complexes arise when soil particles are mixed in the intestines of an earthworm, which is why the effectiveness of worm compost - biohumus, which is also enriched with beneficial microflora from the worm's stomach, is so great.
Briefly, the sequence of layers of the compost heap: 15-20 cm of grass and similar waste, sprinkled with ash, dolomite or lime 300-600 g/sq. meter, and sprinkle everything with clay garden soil - approximately a 2 cm layer. And so several times. Compost should be watered through a sprayer (you can use a watering can) so that the pile is constantly wet.
The addition of compost to the surface of the beds enriches the soil with microorganisms, revitalizes it, and does not at all come down to a simple conversion to N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) nutrients. Be sure to compost your garden!

It is curious that in the Mitlider method using bottomless boxes filled with a mixture of sawdust and sand, by the end of the first season, the sawdust turns into crumbly, loose earth rich in humus, saturated with soil microorganisms, which, in terms of its effect on the main soil and plants, is very similar to a compost layer. in the garden! (But remember - you can’t dig up fresh sawdust with the soil!)
Beds after harvest
Do not leave loose, humus-rich soil bare, not covered with plants or a layer of organic mulch, which provide food for soil bacteria and create conditions for their vital activity, protect the soil from drying out and weathering. Therefore, if you have bare beds left after harvesting, sow any crop as a ground cover, like green manure. In the spring, mow the plants - put the tops in the compost, and the roots remaining in the beds, which have absorbed the nutrients, will give them to the soil, preserving its fertility.

conclusions
. All beds, including Mitlider's narrow soil beds, need the introduction of humus - well-rotted manure or compost, biohumus, which enrich the soil with beneficial soil microflora and humus, which increases the soil's ability to retain nutrients.
. Thus, the combination of organic and complex mineral fertilizers can increase soil fertility faster than the use of each type of fertilizer separately.
. Vegetables are most beneficial when grown without nutritional deficiencies. But over time, there may be a nutritional deficiency of any macro and micro elements, even if at first everything was in abundance. Each locality may have its own lack of macro and micro elements. Therefore, top dressing with corrective fertilizers is necessary.
. Most beneficial soil microorganisms thrive in a slightly acidic and neutral soil pH of 6.5-7.0, with moisture, air and heat in the range of approximately 12-30°C.
. Very light, sandy soil needs the introduction of peat and clay - claying, peaty - sand and loam. Excess water should be drained by drainage work.
. The ground should not be left bare - the soil should be covered with either plants (or lawn) or a layer of organic mulch. An extremely important role in the enrichment of the soil with microorganisms is the introduction of compost and manure humus into the beds.