Protected ground facilities enable amateurs to grow seedlings of garden crops, seedlings of flowers, root cuttings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. But before settling by green residents, they must undergo certain training. How to properly prepare the outside and inside the greenhouse so that in the spring you can start growing the planned crops in it, you can find out from the article.

Repair work

Planting the desired crops should begin in early spring, approximately in the first days of March. It is desirable to perform work in accordance with the following points:

• Inspection of the building frame. If it is made of wood, then thoroughly check the reliability of all lintels and roofing. In those places where loosening is found, parts must be replaced. In the case where the frame is metal, emphasis is placed on finding areas affected by corrosion, which should also be replaced to prevent loosening of the greenhouse. In addition, in winter, during heavy rainfall, the metal skeleton of the greenhouse can bend under the weight of snow. In this case, it is leveled and additional supports are installed.

Advice. For the foundation of the structure to serve long time it is better to treat it with special protective compounds.

• Thorough inspection of the greenhouse cover. With the glass version, all cracked and broken windows are replaced. If the coating is made of polyethylene, then some sections must be replaced, and canvases with small cracks or punctures are glued with ordinary adhesive tape. When modeling the surface of a polycarbonate greenhouse, deflections, tears and dark spots may form on its surface after the cold season. Plots with such defects in the spring must be replaced.

Cleaning the interior from plant residues

The process of preparing a greenhouse in the spring also includes such an obligatory item as liberation from the remains of plants that live here last season. This step makes it possible to prevent the development in a closed system of closed ground of some diseases that affected the predecessors. For example, most pathogenic fungi do not die with the plant, but safely overwinter on dried leaves and stems.

Attention! Remains removed from the greenhouse are best taken outside the site or burned.

The roots of obsolete plants should also be removed from the greenhouse in without fail. At the same time, you can replace the top layer of soil. Step by step, this procedure looks like this:

1. Remove from 5 to 7 cm of soil. Roots are picked and discarded. The earth is transferred from the greenhouse to the open space.
2. Lay a layer of humus, and then manure.
3. All are sprinkled with a small (about 3 cm) layer of garden soil.

Additionally, soil disinfection should be carried out. To do this, use a solution of copper sulfate, which is poured into the soil in the greenhouse after loosening.

How to disinfect

Spring treatment with disinfectants of the interior during the preparation of the greenhouse is very important, since only this technique can destroy the spores of a fungus that is dangerous for crops and causes late blight. It is carried out in several ways:

• with the help of sulfuric gas checkers;

Disinfection with checkers

• spraying with slaked lime mixed with copper sulphate;
• treatment of walls, ceiling and soil with special biological products.

Attention! All dez. solutions are poisonous. They should only be handled with appropriate protection.

For gas treatment most often used checkers with sulfur "Climate". During their combustion, acids are formed that penetrate even into imperceptible cracks. Thus, fungi, slugs, spider mites are destroyed. The procedure is carried out with the door and vents tightly closed. 50 g of sulfur are required per 1 m³. Ventilate the greenhouse 3 days after fumigation. Some greenhouse owners oppose this method of disinfection, citing its low efficiency and the high percentage of sulfur compounds entering the non-draining soil of the protected ground, which is a guarantee of its absorption by plants.

Processing in the following way consists in spraying the walls, ceiling and frame with a solution of a mixture consisting of 3 kg of slaked lime and 500 g of copper sulfate (per bucket of water). This method is also not good enough due to the fact that the drugs are toxic to humans.

The use of biopreparations during the preparation of the greenhouse for spring plantings is considered the most effective, safe and promising way to get rid of fungi and harmful microflora. In addition, according to manufacturers, such processing increases productivity. For 10 liters of water you need 100 g of the drug.

How to prepare the soil

For normal plant growth and, accordingly, to obtain a good harvest, an adequate supply of nutrients in the soil is required. Therefore, before planting crops in a greenhouse, prepare the soil.

Here you can use 2 methods:

• introduction of organics and minerals;
• sowing .

• legumes;
• cereals;
• phacelia;
• mustard.

They are sown in the greenhouse very densely, early in the spring. A week or two before the planned planting of vegetables, green manure is cut with a flat cutter and added dropwise to a depth of 3-4 cm.

The preparation of the greenhouse is a very important event, on the correctness of which the well-being of the planted crops depends. After reading the article, viewing the photos and videos attached to the article, most fans will be able to figure it out and do the work on their own.

What to do in a greenhouse before planting: video

The second reason- This is putting things in order. After the winter, it may be necessary to correct the frame, glue the coating sheets.

In addition, the treatment will provide a suitable balance of minerals in the soil, protect plants from possible diseases.

Optimal greenhouse processing time

Preparation for the next season should begin before the snow melts. At this time, snow is brought in to obtain melt water and the structure is frozen to remove ice and eliminate overwintered insect larvae.

The next stages will begin in February - March, about a month before the planned start of planting. At this time, the main processing is carried out - cleaning, disinfection, soil preparation.

Processing steps

Now let's talk directly about the processing steps themselves, step by step.

The first thing to start with is the cleaning of all greenhouse equipment. We take out everything that is inside - racks, supports, trellises, buckets, garden tools, etc.

Everything that is taken out is carefully examined and checked.
Wooden elements are checked for rot and infection. If any are found, the damaged part must be completely replaced. After that, we process all wooden parts with slaked lime.

We inspect metal products in order to search for rust. All areas affected by corrosion are treated with a rust converter or folk remedies(or vinegar with lemon juice). After cleaning, everything is carefully primed and painted.

Did you know? The first greenhouses began to appear in ancient Rome, and the first greenhouse of a modern design appeared in the 13th century in Germany.

Now, when nothing interferes, we inspect the bearing supports and process the rusted places with a rust converter.

We also inspect polycarbonate sheets for damage and lack of tightness of the joints. Found problems are eliminated with glue and sealant. If necessary, the sheets are replaced entirely.
We also check the installed heating system or stove. We inspect the stove and check the chimney, fix and patch, if necessary. We clean the heating pipes and repaint with aluminum-based paint with the addition of drying oil.

Important! Do not use oil paints for heating pipes - they impair heat transfer.

While the paint dries and the room is ventilated, we will collect and dispose of garbage.

We collect and throw away everything - disposable tying devices (pegs, twine), plant remains, weeds, everything that has deteriorated, rotted and is not suitable for further use.
Leaves, plant stems, roots and other organic waste can be used to make compost and further feed the beds.

Other garbage (branches, twine, rotten wood) must be burned in any way convenient for you (waste oven, fire). This will not only eliminate debris, but also provide a source of ash to be applied later to the soil.

Now the greenhouse needs to be washed.

To do this, use only clean water and, as a last resort, a soap solution (with an alkali content of not more than 3%).

First, apply a soapy solution to the metal elements of the greenhouse. Then wipe them off with a damp soft sponge or cloth. If diseases or pests were observed last season, a remedy can be added to the solution to combat them.
Polycarbonate is washable inside and out. The rules are the same - it is advisable to rinse everything with clean water, and only where there is contamination, treat with soapy water.

Important! Be careful not to let soap get into the soil.

Outside, watering the plates from a hose is allowed; inside, it is better to do with rags or a sponge.

After washing, a low concentration treatment (3-5%) can be carried out. This will protect against most misfortunes - late blight, rot, scab.

Can be treated not with chemicals, but with organic means. For example, a decoction of pine needles. To obtain it, you need to pour half a bucket of coniferous needles with water and leave to infuse.
To speed up the process, you can put a bucket of needles on the fire for 20 minutes. Then the infusion is sprayed over the details of the structures.

Pine needles can also be replaced with nettles. The recipe remains the same.

If the infection situation is catastrophic and the usual Bordeaux liquid does not help, it is necessary to use sulfur fumigation.

You can use ordinary cutting sulfur, but it is better to use sulfur checkers (for example,).

Video: fumigating a greenhouse with a sulfur checker

Before using the checker, the greenhouse is carefully and hermetically closed, all the cracks are caulked. Checkers are installed on a non-combustible base in the middle of the greenhouse, the wick is set on fire and hastily leaves the room.

For 10 cu. m greenhouses will need two checkers.

You can open it for ventilation after two days. Airing lasts about a week. At this time, it is dangerous to enter the greenhouse due to sulfur fumes.

Fumigation should not be carried out if the metal parts of the structure are damaged by rust. Sulfur dioxide (a product of the combustion of sulfur) destroys the metal. Therefore, fumigation is considered a last resort, and should be used rarely.

Important! All fumigation work should be carried out in protective clothing using individual means protection (glasses, gloves, gas mask or respirator).

tillage

Although general disinfection allows you to immediately process the soil, but this should not always be limited. The soil should also be disinfected.

The following soil treatment methods are used:

What to do if perennials grow in a greenhouse?

The above tips are suitable for greenhouses that can be completely cleared of plants in autumn or spring. But there are also perennial plantations grown indoors. In this case, processing still needs to be done.

Did you know? The world's largest greenhouse is located in the UK. These are two domed rooms in which more than a thousand species of plants grow from all over the world (coffee, olives, palm trees, bamboo, etc.).

Processing time

It is necessary to process a greenhouse with perennial plants only at the beginning of spring - at the end of the dormant period of plants. In any case, all operations are carried out after all fruit-bearing shoots have been removed.

Basic Rules

Treatment will consist of garbage collection, cleaning and disinfection of inventory and soil. But this must be done carefully, using funds only from a specific disease or pest.

Video: greenhouse sanitization in spring

With the onset of the long-awaited spring, it's time to prepare the greenhouse for planting. The right actions guarantee a good harvest, so it will be useful to draw up a work schedule for yourself, set clear goals.

The processing of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the spring begins with repairs and general cleaning. Throw away all last year's plants, clean it of debris, pull out all inventory, pallets, pots and proceed to the main work.

Greenhouse repair

Each greenhouse, depending on the conscience of the manufacturer, experiences the winter season differently. Wooden components can rot, metal can rust heavily, cracks appear. Therefore, start spring work in the greenhouse with a general inspection and repair if necessary. Repair any damage, structural problems, and check installed irrigation, ventilation, heating, and other systems.

The frame after heavy snowfalls can be deformed. Carefully inspect all fasteners. Unreliable elements bent parts must be replaced. If the structure sags strongly, take all measures to strengthen it. Place supports or even additional arcs.

The polycarbonate coating also needs a thorough revision. It is advisable to immediately replace places with chips, cavities, cracks, with heavily darkened and worn areas.

Metal elements should be well painted over. This is especially true if you are using a sulfur treatment that promotes corrosion.

How to wash polycarbonate

Most The best way– warm soapy water with a soft cloth. Take laundry soap and just cut it into a bucket. For hard-to-reach places, use a long mop. If something sticks to the walls, do not rip off or scrape off. Clean only with a wet cloth. At the end, you can rinse again with water from a hose.

With an abundance of any diseases last year, add an agent against these pathogens to the washing solution. But never take chemical detergents containing abrasives, hard sponges, brushes. They can damage the top layer of polycarbonate.

Yulia Petrichenko, expert

Greenhouse chemical treatment

Contrary to popular belief, frost does not kill the pests that plagued you last year. Slugs, snails, aphid colonies overwinter well in pots or in the crowns of perennials. And weevil larvae - in piles of compost or in the roots of plants. Therefore, the preparation and processing of the greenhouse in the spring before planting is of great importance, be sure to go through the necessary chemicals.

A good way to disinfect is lump sulfur. Spread it on iron sheets along the entire length of the greenhouse, sprinkle with kerosene and set it on fire. Take all precautions, wear a respirator, gloves and goggles. Do not forget that the gas emitted is very dangerous for humans. Start setting fire to the sulfur from the far edge, moving towards the exit. Before doing this, do not forget to tightly seal all openings and crevices so that the smoke does not go outside. Keep the greenhouse closed for 3-4 days.

Take the amount of sulfur based on the calculation of 50 grams per cubic meter. If there was a lesion with a spider mite, then increase the dosage to 150 g.

Much easier and faster if you use ready-made sulfur smoke bombs. Usually in the instructions it is written in detail what area and volume they are designed for. In addition, such means as carbation, creolin, formalin and others are suitable. Here we are more guided by what kind of diseases bothered us before, since each drug has its own properties.

Everything that will be in contact with or near your plants also needs disinfecting actions. Dirty tools can introduce bacteria and fungi to young, fragile shoots. garden tools, dishes for seedlings can be thoroughly sprayed with 5% dissolved vitriol or bleach (minimum 50 grams per liter of water). In addition, sharpen shovels and choppers well to increase efficiency and ease of work.

The wooden frame of the greenhouse must be treated with copper sulfate diluted in water 1 to 10. Further, it is advisable to whitewash it with a thick layer of lime. And metal parts are perfectly disinfected by dousing with boiling water. If during processing you find moss, lichen, be sure to immediately remove it.

Soil work in the greenhouse

Soil preparation will be most successful if all work is carried out when it has completely melted after winter. It is advised to roast the earth on an open fire. To do this, they take it out of the pallets, put it on a metal sheet and turn on the fire under it. Ten minutes will be enough to destroy weed seeds and various pests, bacteria. Next, sift the soil well and put it back into the greenhouse, mixing with bioadditives.

Scatter the removed earth around the garden. It can be reused in the open garden. But it is not recommended to plant crops related to those that grew in it earlier. Alternatively, this land can still be mixed with manure. Then after three years it can be used again.

You can disinfect the soil by watering it with Bordeaux liquid or a solution of copper sulfate. Good for acidic soils bleaching powder. You need to do this after digging. But still, this option is not the best for spring. If possible, treat with chemicals in advance, since the fall. It is not known how these agents will affect plant growth.

Boiling water also copes well with pathogenic bacteria. The soil is poured with a large volume of hot water and covered with a moisture-proof blanket.

Polycarbonate greenhouse microclimate

Temperature under control

Preparing your greenhouse for spring may involve trying out new climate control technologies to improve the quality of your crop.

There is a lot of such equipment on the market today, from economical to fancy expensive ones. Pay special attention when setting the heating temperature. It must be adjusted to the light level. On cloudy days, you need to make it lower, and on sunny days, you need to make it higher. Don't forget that elevated temperatures with low light levels will result in thin plants. And low temperatures in bright light, on the contrary, lead to thickening.

When choosing the best option, keep in mind that at a slightly elevated average daily temperature, vegetables will grow faster, fruits will set earlier.

At a lower night temperature, carbohydrates (sugars) are preserved, as a result of which stronger ovaries are observed, leaf thickness and fruit size increase. The ratio of the lengths of day and night affects the shape of the plant. The same temperature around the clock will not give the proper impetus for growth.

It is difficult to give exact values ​​​​of degrees, since they are different for each species, variety, and also terrain.

The source of heat will extend the growing season and will allow you to increase the range. The best choice is a heater with an automatic thermostat. Although, as a simple option, an ordinary potbelly stove will also do.

Find a place to compost

If you still do not have compost, then take care of this omission. First, you have to put the waste from the greenhouse somewhere. Second, your plants benefit from nutrient-rich compost. Try to find the perfect combination of grass clippings, vegetable clippings, wood chips so that in the future you do not go broke on expensive supplements.

To preserve the compost, turn it over with a pitchfork every month.

Check the ventilation system

Fungal diseases often appear due to insufficient ventilation. To avoid infection, make sure the greenhouse has enough openings for good air circulation. Ideally, there should be two lattice windows located below on opposite sides of the greenhouse, as well as two on the roof. A good option is to invest in automatic ventilation.

Take the time to your greenhouse, and she will thank you with a wonderful harvest.

If you have a greenhouse or even several at your summer cottage, with the onset of autumn cold weather (after harvesting), you must immediately begin preparing these structures for winter. This work is very important - the quality and quantity of the crop obtained in it depends on how well the greenhouse winters.

In autumn, the greenhouse needs a whole range of activities. But after it is held in the spring, you will only have to plant seedlings in a clean and healthy "house".

Greenhouse conditions are necessary for plants to protect themselves from their main enemy - cold. Inside the greenhouse, thanks to the ingenious design and materials from which it is made, constant temperature and maintains the moisture necessary for plants to develop successfully. But precisely because of this ability of the greenhouse to create favorable conditions for plants, there is a danger that weeds and pathogens will also feel great in a warm and humid environment. Bacteria that remain in the greenhouse after harvesting will safely survive the winter, and in the spring they will attack young seedling sprouts. Harvest can not wait.

Therefore, the preparation does not involve protection from the winter cold, as is done with perennials or young tree seedlings, but also the final processing of all components of the greenhouse.

Autumn processing of the greenhouse includes two main areas of work:

• putting in order the soil in greenhouse beds;
• disinfection of the structure (framework, covering material).

You should start with tillage. And it is necessary to start work before the onset of serious cold weather.

Autumn processing of greenhouse beds

It all starts with cleaning. On a dry, not rainy and windless day, go to the greenhouse and remove all plant debris from it.

The first stage - general cleaning

With the release of beds from annual crops, there are not many questions - just remove obsolete plants, and, if possible, all their parts, underground and aboveground. The same applies to the remains of fruits and vegetables - in a word, everything that interferes with the cleanliness of the ridges must be removed.

Advice! Even if the plants in the greenhouse were not sick, not affected by pests, and you did not treat them with chemicals, do not send the collected plant residues to the compost pit and do not leave them on the site. There are two ways to dispose of plant waste - burning or landfilling off site. If your gardening association provides organized waste collection, you can send waste there.

In addition to annual plants, perennials are sometimes located in the greenhouse. Weed perennials are treated in the same way as with the remains cultivated plants- uprooted and disposed of. Cultivated perennials - for example, garden strawberries - are subject to a thorough revision to remove rotten, dried, damaged specimens. They are also removed along with the root, and in the spring new ones are planted in their place.

The second stage is the removal of the soil

This is the most time-consuming task of all that you face in the process. autumn processing greenhouses. But you have to do it, and do it well. If annual vegetables, flowers, or other useful plants are grown (and in most cases they do - that's what greenhouses are for), the topsoil must be removed annually. This is an immutable rule that underlies the future harvest.

The layer of removed soil is at least 15 cm. There should not be any difficulties with where to put this soil - it can be taken out to open ridges, sprinkled on flower beds, under trees, in alpine hills. Only before this, it is desirable to disinfect the removed soil.

The question is more complicated - what to fill in the greenhouse instead of the removed soil. In a short period, you need to create a new fertile layer. This is not easy to do, since beneficial microorganisms have a limited period of time - before the onset of frost, to start processing new soil. Therefore, the soil must be ideally suited.

There are two ways to replenish greenhouse beds with soil:

• import from outside (purchase);
• self-preparation (compilation of various components in accordance with the necessary requirements).

The first way is easier, but has "pitfalls". It is the purchased soil that does not guarantee the presence of all the necessary components in it. Moreover, contrary to promises, unscrupulous sellers can bring you soil previously taken from other greenhouses. In appearance, it will be loose, dark, humus, fertile, but pouring it into a greenhouse is the same as not removing your waste soil, or even worse. New earth - new bacteria in addition to those already present on your site.

There is only one way out - to prepare the soil yourself.

Table number 1. What should be the soil for replacement in the greenhouse.

As for the composition of the soil, it is classic and includes:

• peat of high formation;
• river or lake sand;
• compost or manure.

And then the soil is designed to stop the effects of harmful substances, processing them, if not into useful ones, then at least neutral ones that do not harm plants. Humic acids help the soil in this, which make it fertile and meet all the parameters of a good soil. Manure, litter, turned into humus, processed by insects - this is a simplified scheme for replenishing the soil with such valuable and necessary humus. In this scheme, there is no place for mineral compounds, which are probably contained in purchased soils.

But if there is no time to wait until beneficial microorganisms create a fertile layer, you can use humic acids. The soil prepared for replacement is treated with Flora-S according to the instructions. After that, it remains only to disinfect the soil. But for this it is not at all necessary to pour boiling water, urea into it and poison it with potassium permanganate. The hay stick, which is contained in the Fitop-Flora-S preparation, will cope with the task much more efficiently and with benefits for the soil.

Fertilizers "Flora-S" and "Fitop-Flora-S"

Advice! Whatever type of vegetables you grow in a greenhouse, every five years you need to carry out a complete (not superficial, as annually) soil replacement to a depth of 35 cm. There is another option - in the fifth year, transfer the entire greenhouse to a new location.

The third stage - disinfection

While the soil treated with humic acids "ripens", it is necessary to carry out disinfection in the greenhouse. Here all means are good, but the most commonly used are treatment with urea or other disinfectants and fumigation with sulfur. The second method is good because it can be used to disinfect not only the soil layer remaining in the greenhouse, but also the entire structure from the inside.

Important warning! Sulfur cannot be used to fumigate greenhouses, which are based on a metal frame.

Table number 2. Greenhouse disinfection methods.

Video - How the greenhouse is disinfected

Processing of the greenhouse structure and covering material

Facilities can be disinfected different ways, depending on what materials the greenhouse is made of. In all cases, except for the preliminary treatment with sulfur, it is necessary to disinfect the frame and all covering material separately. Any fixed coating that remains to winter on the frame, as well as any removable coating that is removed for storage in order to be reused in the spring, is subject to mandatory disinfection.

Frame processing

Frames are of three types:

• metal;
• wooden;
• PVC.

Do not forget that the metal frame is not subject to sulfuric treatment - sulfur can “eat” the metal, rendering the frame unusable.

Table number 3. How to process the frame of the greenhouse.

Coating processing

It also depends on what kind of material is used.

Film and glass

If the greenhouse is covered with a film or glazed, the coating is treated with a hot (at least + 40 ° C) solution of laundry soap. A bar of soap without impurities and with a high content of alkali weighing 100 g dissolves completely in boiling water (you can grate it). The solution, stirring, is cooled to the desired temperature. With a brush, a thorough treatment of all coatings is carried out, first from the inside and then from the outside.

Polycarbonate

It is processed not with active alkali, but with a solution of potassium permanganate. It should be intense and hot. It is not enough just to pour over the entire coating, trying not to miss a centimeter. It is important to wash the polycarbonate well from the inside. Particular attention - the corners, lower and upper (under the ceiling, wasp nests can be preserved). Outside, the structure can simply be poured with a solution. After disinfection, all doors open, a draft is provided and a quick drying of the greenhouse is arranged.

Removable film cover

Removable reusable film should also be treated with potassium permanganate, dried and sent for storage packed in a large sealed bag.

Strengthening the frame

If snowy winters are likely in your area, one more cleaning should be carried out before disinfecting the stationary greenhouse. important work- Strengthening the frame. For this purpose, temporary supports and arcs are used, which are installed inside. You can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones.

The emphasis is on the upper part (skate) of the structure. In order to protect a six-meter greenhouse from collapse, you will need at least four T-shaped props. They are fixed on the upper rungs of the structure and serve as additional insurance against collapse and breakage.

Advice! If the greenhouse is located on a site blown by the wind, and the amount of snow cover can increase critically, then double the number of props.

The supports are placed on a solid foundation. It can be plywood, metal sheet or other sealant. If you install props on the ground, under the weight of snow, they can sink into the soil.

For a polycarbonate greenhouse, there are norms for maximum loads on the frame. On average, they are as follows: 70 cm of dry, light snow and no more than 30 cm of wet, packed snow. Glass can withstand a load half as much, and a film, even the densest one, can withstand a maximum of 20 cm of dry snow cover.

That is why it is important to remove snow from the roof and walls of the greenhouse in a timely manner. Even if the design of the greenhouse provides for independent snowmelt (most modern polycarbonate greenhouses have this function), it does not hurt to control the process from time to time.

Clearing the greenhouse from snow

Preparing the greenhouse for the new season in spring is one of the most important procedures for the future harvest. Greenhouses grow numerous plants that will not ripen in time in our area without additional help.

Unfortunately, polycarbonate greenhouses are great not only for growing vegetables or fruits. In these places, harmful bacteria, such as late blight or spider mites, multiply rapidly. After each season, the greenhouse must be put in order and prepared for the new one.

Preparing a greenhouse for planting new seedlings is a rather long process. Greenhouse preparation activities begin with the first spring warming - in late March or early April.

Preparing the land is not the fastest process, it consists of several stages:

1. Checking the design itself.
2. Cleaning.
3. Disinfection of the greenhouse and soil.
4. Fertilization and formation of beds.
5. Warming up the soil before planting.

Structural inspection, cleaning

First you need to carry out a physical cleaning of the greenhouse:

The first step is to check the greenhouse itself. If it is made of wood, check the beams and treat them with a special protective solution for wood. If made of metal - make sure that there is no corrosion, renew the paint;

Important! Be sure to fix any damage in the structure - align what is bent, close the holes, if any. A broken greenhouse will not be able to perform its main functions - to create the right conditions for growing plants.

Remove the remains of plants, old garters and twine, debris;

Hoses, barrels and other equipment must be thoroughly washed and dried, put away in a secure storage;

By the way, all this can be done not only in spring, but also in autumn, after the last harvest. A tidy and clean greenhouse will endure the winter better, and there will be less work in the spring.

Soil diagnostics and disinfection

Some gardeners think that low temperatures in winter themselves serve as disinfection, but this is not so - organisms that are detrimental to plants simply fall asleep for the winter, and with the first warming they begin to actively multiply. It is very difficult to grow anything in such soil, it needs disinfection.

There are several ways to disinfect:

Very important! During fumigation, it is strictly forbidden to be in the greenhouse. A person who lays out and sets fire to sulfur must wear a protective suit, gas mask and gloves.

Soil preparation

If the greenhouse has been in use for a long time, then the ideal option would be to simply remove about 5 centimeters of the topsoil. In place of the earth, manure is laid in a thick layer - one of the best means to fertilize the land. Such a process is quite laborious, but effective.

Important! The land that was removed in the greenhouse does not have to be thrown away. If you throw it on other beds, in the open air, it will serve perfectly there.

Now the soil must be saturated with useful substances, that is, fertilizers. Which ones they will be depends on what plants they plan to plant. Fertilizers are of two types:

Organic fertilizers make the soil saturated with nutrients and create beneficial microorganisms good conditions for life. These substances also help warm the soil. The most popular of them:

• Manure;
• bird droppings;
• tree bark;
• River silt;
• Humus;

• Mineral fertilizers are chemical substances, which saturate the soil with a special element, for example, nitrogen or potassium. Any store sells whole complexes of these substances, which contain all the components necessary for good soil quality.

Do not forget! The main thing in working with mineral fertilizers is not to overdo it, too a large number of substances can simply destroy seedlings.

Soil heating

After the soil is put in order, it is necessary to prepare the soil for sowing. The main procedure for this is warming up. It is done as follows: small, shallow trenches are dug across the beds, and then hot water is poured into them. Such manipulations raise the temperature of the soil to 10-15 degrees.

Another option for warming up, especially if the days are already quite sunny, is to cover the beds with a dark and very dense film.

Oxygen saturation

Experienced gardeners know that the best soil is loose and porous. Such a land is saturated big amount oxygen.

To saturate the earth with it, the following components are added to it:

• compost - decayed remains of organic waste;
• leaves, sawdust and tree bark;
• straw cutting;

Another simple and effective way to “revive” the earth is to plant mustard or watercress in it. These plants grow quickly and well - after a couple of weeks after them, the earth is dug up and seedlings can be planted in it.

The complex of these measures will create ideal conditions in the greenhouse. A well-maintained greenhouse gives amazing results - the plants take root well, grow quickly and produce excellent fruits.