How is the copy different from the original quality display. How to distinguish an original iPhone display from a copy: instructions and photos How to choose a quality display for an iPhone 4

Below we have tried to state the differences in the quality classes of displays as simply and clearly as possible. After reading this article, you will be able to distinguish original iPhone display from a copy. This material is presented for informational purposes only and is based on our experience with parts for Apple. The material contains real photos of goods sold in our online store.

Advparts is not responsible for the quality and consumer characteristics of spare parts, and also does not guarantee the quality of spare parts purchased from THIRD-PARTY organizations, based on the information read in this material.

In total, there are 3 classes of displays in our store: Original removed, Original restored and AAA. Read more about quality classes in spare parts

General differences of the copy from the original display.

From the user's point of view on replica displays:

  • worse color reproduction and brightness (see photo below)
  • slightly worse sensor response speed, BUT false positives are possible
  • the front protective glass is less resistant to damage (it breaks more often), when the top glass is broken, the sensor usually stops working
  • there may be sensor failures at low temperatures and in humid weather
  • worse or no oleophobic (grease repellent) coating

Why are iPhone screen copies cheaper?

The production of copies uses a different technology.

Original (filmed and restored): the original display and sensor grid are assembled, a protective glass is installed on top.

AAA: display copy is made separately, touch glass is installed instead of protective glass. The display and touch glass are supplied assembled.

Where do the original display modules on the iPhone come from?

As you know, Apple itself does not supply components for the iPhone. Therefore, all original displays are removed or remanufactured parts.
Captured displays are available for iPhone 7 and later. This is a 100% native display taken from a new device. No differences from your native display.
Restored originals are made in factories. Displays arrive at factories with broken front glass and non-damaged displays. On special factory equipment is replaced windshield, frame, and, as a rule, the backlight of the display. The procedure takes place in sterile rooms, the slightest violation technological process leads to rejection of a large number of displays. At home, it is impossible to restore.

How to distinguish the original from the copy?

For the iPhone 4 and 4S, the main difference will be the thickness of the glass around the Home button (in the original, the glass in the Home area is noticeably thicker).

For iPhone 5, 5C, 5S and SE

Difference 1 (mandatory).

The thickness of the glass in the area of ​​​​the Home button (in the originals it is thicker).


Copies in the area of ​​the Home button under the glass (on the back of the display) may have a special overlay that prevents the pusher of the Home button from falling in.

Difference 2

Difference 3 (optional, depends on recovery technology).

The presence of the Apple logo in the upper left corner on reverse side original.

The absence of a rainbow rim and logo is not an indicator of a copy, BUT their presence indicates that you have an original display in front of you.

For iPhone 6, 6 Plus, 6S, 6S Plus, 7 and 7 Plus we sell original displays and AAA.

Difference 1 (mandatory).

The thickness of the glass in the area of ​​​​the Home button (in the originals a little thicker).


Difference 2 (mandatory).

The presence of the Apple logo on the display cables (both restored and removed). Please note that on the displays for the iPhone 7 series, the "apples" are on the closed part of the cable (adjacent to the backlight).




Difference 3 (optional for recovered, depends on recovery technology).

The presence on the original of the rainbow rim in the area of ​​​​the light sensor.




Difference 4 (optional, depends on recovery technology).

The presence of the Apple logo on the back of the original display.


Difference 5 (required for removed, optional for restored, depends on the recovery technology).

The presence of a grease-repellent coating. Typically, original refurbished iPhone 6 and above displays have an oleophobic coating, but this is not required.

Important! The absence of a rainbow rim and logo is not an indicator of a copy, BUT their presence indicates that you have an original display in front of you.

If you have any questions, you can contact us by phone, e-mail or via the feedback form.

m. Kozhukhovskaya- Self-delivery is carried out after confirmation of the order. Specify the terms of shipment of goods from our operators by phone or you can wait for a call from our specialists by placing an order on our website.


Please note that the order is kept in reserve at the pickup point for 48 hours.


Please call us if you would like to extend the shelf life of your order.


Address: st. Petra Romanova, house 6, entrance from the corner of the house, to the right of the Bosch shopping center


We work: Mon - Fri 09 - 21, Sat 11 - 19, Sun - day off

? Moscow

- Tomorrow after 13:00 More than 10 pcs.

m. Dostoevskaya- Self-delivery is carried out after confirmation of the order.

Same day delivery times, subject to stock availability.

If the goods in this moment out of stock at the pickup point, you can always place an order and receive it in 2-3 days. It will be sent from the Moscow warehouse, as soon as the order arrives, you will be immediately notified.


Address: st. Driving around, house 1


We work: Mon - Fri 12 - 20

? St. Petersburg

Delivery is carried out the next day after placing the order.

You can receive your order in Moscow at any address within the Moscow Ring Road for 330 rubles or
Design courier delivery outside the Moscow Ring Road (up to 10 km + 390 rubles), then 30 rubles. for 1km.


Order express delivery on the same day in Moscow for 590 rubles. Delivery is carried out on the same day, when ordering before 18.00.


Delivery is carried out only to the home address or to the office. We do not deliver orders on the street, in the subway or at railway stations.

? Moscow - only 330 rubles.

today after 12.00

If the product is in stock in St. Petersburg, delivery is carried out on the next business day after placing the order.


If the product is not currently in stock at the pickup point, you can always place an order and receive it in 2-3 days with our courier.


You can receive your order in St. Petersburg at any address within the ring road for 330 rubles or arrange courier delivery outside the ring road (up to 10 km + 390 rubles), then 30 rubles. for 1km.


Delivery is limited inside in the South-West to Pionerstroy Street, in the North-West to Shuvalovsky Prospekt.

? St. Petersburg - only 330 rubles.

You can receive your order anywhere in the Russian Federation or in the CIS countries.


Delivery by courier EMS Mail Russia or Transport company SDEK.
Shipping cost 590 rub. After sending, you will receive a tracking number to track your package. For buyers from nearby countries, as well as distant regions of the Russian Federation (EMS tariff zone 4 and 5): Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Belarus, Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Czech Republic, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia - please choose only the express delivery method for 590 rubles . The parcel will be sent by Russian Post. Shipments to other countries occur only by the delivery method for 590 rubles.


Delivery by Russian Post.
Shipping cost 290 rub. Receiving an order at the nearest post office. Please remember to include your full name and full shipping address when placing an order. After sending, you will receive a tracking number to track your package.

We draw your attention to the fact that transport company NOT open on weekends holidays. Orders placed on Friday before 3:00 pm will ship on Monday, and orders placed after 3:00 pm on Tuesday. Shipments to the regions of the Russian Federation occur 2-3 times a week.

? To the regions of the Russian Federation - from 290 rubles.

From 2-12 days
- from 1-7 days.

Use this guide to replace your cracked or damaged iPhone 4 display.

All necessary parts and tools are included in a self-replacement kit, which you can purchase in our store.

  • Back panel - 3 steps;
  • Battery - 3 steps;
  • Motherboard - 13 steps;
  • Speaker - 2 steps;
  • Display - 9 steps;
  • New Module - 1 step.

Tools:

  • Five-sided P2 Pentalobe screwdriver for iPhone;
  • Sucker;
  • Phillips screwdriver #000;
  • Plastic tools for autopsy;
  • Flat screwdriver 2.5mm;

iPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Rear Panel

Step 1

Before disassembling your iPhone, make sure it is turned off.

Your iPhone 4 back cover can be secured with either two #000 Phillips screws or two Pentalobe screws (second image). Check which screws you have and use the correct screwdriver to remove them.

Remove the two 3.6mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the power connector.

The pentagon screwdriver must be used very carefully as it may strip the threads of the screws.

Step 2

Press the back panel with your fingers and drag towards the top edge of the device.

The panel will move about 2 mm.


Step 3

Pinch the back panel with your fingers and remove it from the mobile, or alternatively use a small suction cup.

Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the back panel.

If you are installing a new back cover, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area next to the lens.


iPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Battery

Step 4

Remove one 2.5mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the board.

Some devices may have two screws, one of which binds the contact pad, which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Step 5

Using a plastic tool, carefully pry the battery connector cover up from the socket on the board.

Be very careful: lift only the battery cable, not the connector on the board. If you lift the connector, you can tear it off completely.

Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Step 6

Pull the plastic tab to remove the battery from the device.

Do not remove the plastic tab from the device.

You may need to use a plastic tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.

Remove contact clamp from the device.

Before reconnecting the battery connector, make sure that the terminal clip (highlighted in red) is correctly positioned next to the battery connector.

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the pressure contacts, as well as the connecting parts from grease (for example, with Windex). Grease from your fingers can interfere with battery performance.

iPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Motherboard

Step 7

Use the SIM eject tool (or paperclip) to remove the SIM card.

This may require significant effort.

Remove the SIM card and the frame for it.

Step 8

Remove the following screws:

  • One 1.2mm Phillips screw;
  • One 1.6mm Phillips screw.

Remove the thin steel cover of the power cable.

Before assembly, all metal parts of the steel cover must be degreased (eg with Windex). Grease from your fingers can cause interference.



Step 9

Using a plastic tool, gently pry up and disconnect the power cable from the motherboard from the two short ends of the connector.

Step 10

Carefully slide the power ribbon cable off the motherboard and lower speakers.

Do not use excessive force to move the cable. This may lead to its rupture.

Step 11

Use a plastic tool to separate the bottom antenna connector from the socket on the motherboard.

Step 12

Remove the 1.9mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

Step 13

Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the motherboard:

  • One 2.3mm Phillips screw;
  • Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws;
  • One 1.4mm Phillips screw;
  • One 4.8mm Phillips screw.

When assembling, start with the 4.8mm Philips screw and then move on to the 2.3mm screw. This is necessary in order not to confuse and not spoil the cable.

Also make sure the 4.8mm Philips screw is installed correctly when assembling. It forms the base for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit for poor Wi-Fi reception after assembly.

Step 14

Use a plastic opening tool to slightly pry the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the motherboard.

Carefully Pull the Wi-Fi antenna tabs away from the inner frame. This can be done with a fingernail, the tip of a utility knife, or tweezers.

Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the device. Be sure to make sure that the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches and the 4.8mm screw itself are not lost.. This is the main reason for Wi-Fi not working after assembly.

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal parts of the steel cover that come into contact with the connectors from grease (for example, using Windex). Grease from your fingers can cause interference. The connectors themselves cannot be cleaned with a cleaner!

Step 15

Using the opening tool, carefully pry up the connector rear camera up from the socket on the motherboard.

Remove the rear camera.

Step 16

Remove small round white sticker(warranty sticker and water indicator) covering the screw near the battery tab.

Remove the 2.4mm Phillips screw that was hidden under the sticker.

Step 17

Using the tip of the opening tool, carefully remove the following cables from the board:

  • Sensor cable (lift from below);
  • Display cable (lift from below);
  • Headphone jack/volume buttons cable (lift from top);
  • Top microphone/power button cable (lift from above);
  • Front camera cable (lift from above).

Step 18

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8mm fastener next to the headphone jack.

When assembling the device, this fastener sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If it is not tightened, the shield will be higher than desired and the back panel cannot be installed as in step 2. The shield must be flush with the headphone jack.

When assembling the motherboard, make sure the edge of the motherboard is under the circled fasteners, otherwise the screws won't fit.

When reassembling, make sure the small rubber spacer is attached to the top of the motherboard. Without this part, the motherboard may damage the cables next to it.

Step 19

Carefully remove the motherboard from the iPhone, being mindful of any cables you might come across.

Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, at the top of the device), it is very fragile.

When assembling, be careful not to cover the bottom antenna cable under the motherboard.

iPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Speaker

Step 20

Remove one 2.4mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the frame.

Step 21

Remove the Speaker from the device.

Before reattaching the speaker cabinet to the inner frame, make sure the four small EMI fingers are below the edge of the display frame.

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all metal-to-metal contacts between the EMI pins and the inner frame, as well as the groove for the brass screw from grease. Finger grease can interfere with operation.

iPhone 4 Screen Replacement Instructions - Display

Step 22

Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

  • One 6mm Phillips screw;
  • One 1.4mm Phillips screw.

Remove the vibrator from the device.

Step 23

Remove the Phillips 1.5mm screw securing the front bezel next to the headphone jack.

Step 24

Remove three 1.5mm Phillips screws c big heads along the side volume button.

Step 25

Remove the Phillips 1.5mm screw near the microphone.

Step 26

Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw next to the power connector ribbon cable.

Step 27

Remove the three 1.5mm Phillips screws from the side of the SIM card.

Keep an eye on the washers under each screw.

Tip: The screws around the perimeter of the case can not be completely unscrewed, but only loosened by 2/3, this should be quite enough for the subsequent separation of the screen from the case.

Remove the 1.5mm Phillips screw next to the rear camera.

Step 28

Carefully insert the edge of the opening tool between the rubber frame of the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.

Do not attempt to insert a tool between the glass and the rubber frame.

Carefully pry the top edge of the front panel away from the steel frame.

Step 29

Slowly and carefully lift the top edge of the front panel away from the steel frame.

Continue to pull the front panel out of the steel frame until it slowly begins to separate from the adhesive applied under the home button area.

Carefully pull the bottom edge of the module away from the steel inner frame.

Be careful! If the Home button sticks to the front panel, you may break its cable.

Do not overturn the module or remove it completely from the frame. This may damage the cable.

If the glass is cracked, removing the panel may cause it to bend, which could cause small pieces to fly off. Before you take this step, cover the front glass with film, then detach it over the trash can. Wearing goggles would also be a smart move.

Step 30

Disconnect the cable and carefully remove it from the steel frame.

Before attaching the front panel to the steel frame, make sure that the cable is not folded or stuck between the inner frame and the front panel. This may damage it.

When the front panel is installed correctly, the sensor cable and display cable should be in close proximity to each other, be the same length, and should just hang over the steel frame.

Make sure no cables get stuck between the screen and bezel.

When replacing the module, you should remember that you may have to use the speaker grille and the clear plastic ring around the front camera from the old/damaged module. This will depend on the configuration of the new part.

The display is perhaps the most fragile and vulnerable element of any iPhone: any hit or fall can be fatal for it. In most cases, physical damage to the screen is resolved by replacing the failed display module with a working equivalent, which involves purchasing a new display. And at this point, many users have a reasonable question - which module to buy? In this article, we will try to answer this question in detail, making it easier for you to select and purchase a screen module for your iPhone.

Any display consists of three main elements: a protective glass, a touchscreen and, directly, the matrix itself. Sometimes all three elements form an inseparable screen module, but most often you can find options for sale in which glass and a touchscreen or a touchscreen and a matrix are combined into a single whole. Of course, if the glass is damaged, its replacement in a module with separated glass and a combined touchscreen and matrix is ​​cheaper, and it is for this reason that most of the modules we offer have a similar structure.

It is worth noting that particularly strong or unsuccessful impacts and falls can not only damage the glass, but also lead to a malfunction of the matrix itself, and in such cases the screen module changes entirely. The screen modules themselves can be divided into three broad categories: original displays, high-quality counterparts, and modules produced by small factories in China.

When talking about original modules, it is worth noting that Apple does not supply them separately - that is, if the screen is damaged, the entire smartphone will be replaced at the service center. Where do they come from then? Most often they are removed from broken iPhones that have an intact screen, and they can also be supplied by companies that produce these displays for Apple. All such modules have an excellent assembly and display an image that is indistinguishable in quality from the original screen. You can safely buy them, but their price is the highest among all the screens installed on the iPhone.

High-quality analogues of screen modules are produced by Tianma, Longteng LCD (IVO) and JingDongFang (BOE).

Tianma is a Japanese-Chinese company that produces the highest quality analogues of matrices for the iPhone. have very high quality assembly and display almost the same image as the original Apple displays.

Longteng modules are manufactured by the well-known Chinese company IVO (Infovision Optoelectronics). They are slightly inferior in quality to screens from Apple and Tianma, but at the same time they have the best combination"price / quality" among all screen modules on the iPhone.

They are also JingDongFeng, produced by the Chinese company BOE, which is one of the largest suppliers of displays for smartphones, tablets, laptops and TVs. These screens visually almost do not differ from the original and display an excellent image, however, in terms of quality and characteristics, they are still inferior to the original displays and their counterparts from Tianma and Longteng.

In addition to the three companies listed above, analogues of modules on the iPhone are produced by a number of small Chinese companies. Such screens are inexpensive, they often use good modules from leading manufacturers, however, due to total savings on other display components and unsuitable conditions for their assembly, the quality of such modules leaves much to be desired. When buying such screens, you run the risk of receiving a defective product and encountering a number of problems during its installation and use.

However, even original displays and high-quality analogues are not without flaws: they also have flashes and broken pixels, and between layers under magnifying glass you can see dust particles and small particles of dirt. Formally, such defects are not a factory defect, but many users are unlikely to be happy with their presence. That is why we divide all the screens we sell into three classes.

The first class is the highest quality screens without dead pixels, with uniform backlighting and without specks. Similar modules are checked by us under a microscope.

The second class includes screens with one or two dead pixels or barely noticeable specks between layers. Visually, they are almost indistinguishable from first-class screens - only a very attentive user will be able to notice their shortcomings.

The third class is represented by displays in which there are more than two dead pixels, there are barely noticeable lights or small specks that are visible to the naked eye. We rarely see such displays and usually we sell them at an impressive discount.

On this, we, perhaps, will upload this article - the information presented in it will allow you to easily choose a high-quality display module. If you need expert advice, you can contact our support team, which will be happy to help you choose a high-quality screen for your iPhone.

Split seconds and your iPhone met with His Majesty asphalt. Mesh screen, cracks on the entire surface of the display, exfoliated pieces of glass.

We are looking for a service center. Found! The price is 50–60% lower, and they also promise to supply an original screen from Apple itself, and complete the entire repair in 20–30 minutes…

Did you send it in for repairs? You were divorced at the same moment when they said that they would put the "original". Do not believe! Let's see why.

There are no original displays for the iPhone

Apple's policy is in a complete refusal to sell original components on iPhone and iPad. The company does not distribute spare parts between service centers.

Broke the screen? Apple will offer a replacement for the entire device at an additional cost. The cost of such a "repair" is much higher, but you yourself chose the iPhone - accept it.

Conclusion: In the service center they assure you that they will put the "original screen"? Legs in hands and out.

So what kind of screens do we put?

What kind of screen do we risk getting when we turn to specialists for help? With the original figured out - they do not exist. Those. original screen- this is the one that is installed on the iPhone when you purchase it. Service centers can offer:

Factory Chinese- an adequate display, which is manufactured on a factory scale. Remember that the iPhone (and almost all Apple technology) is assembled at Foxconn's Chinese factory. There is no cause for concern.

"Donor" from the original- the only option to get the original screen for your smartphone, provided that the previous owner did not change the screen.

Cheap China- no comments here. Such displays are produced by small Chinese desks that assemble “original” components in the truest sense of the word “on the knee”.

The image quality of the replaced display depends on the type of matrix installed. There is also a wide range of choices here:

  • Used matrix taken from a donor (manufacturer LG, Sharp)
  • New matrix from LG, Sharp
  • Cheap Chinese equivalent of unknown origin

As a result - a significant spread of prices without any control. You can be supplied with a Chinese display with a low-quality matrix, assuring that this is the original. Vice versa? You don't believe in fairy tales, do you?

iPhone display classes

There are several classes of alternatives to the original Apple displays at once: each has its own quality, its own color reproduction, its own skeletons in the closet. Starting from the lowest quality display to the original (best), all iPhone displays can be arranged in the following order:

5. China of unknown origin. Without clan, tribe and any guarantees.

4. Class A analogue. This will be delivered to you in most small service centers in the country

3. Analog class AAA. There are many variations: somewhere the matrix is ​​​​better, but the plastic is worse; others have excellent protective glass, a matrix and plastic, but not very high-quality cables.

2. Analog class Original. It's expensive, but it's the best you can find.

1. Original Apple Display. You have one and you get it when you buy a smartphone. Take care of him.

The difference between iPhone display types is clearly shown in this table:

Tap on the picture to enlarge

The cost of repairing a broken iPhone screen depends on a number of characteristics of the installed display.

Glass- the impact resistance of the entire display assembly, protection against dirt and fingerprints, resistance to haze also affect the price.

Matrix- color rendition, "correct" brightness and uniformity of illumination. With permission, in principle, everything is not so bad - even handicraft Chinese manufacturers adhere to it.

Plastic- it may turn yellow or white after a few months (white/black iPhone). For how soon this happens, you pay.

plumes- glitches, brakes, response speed, sensitivity - it all depends on the quality of the cables.

metal frame- a low-quality screen can peel off or backlash immediately after replacement.

Glue- one more factor on which the speed of screen delamination (glass separation from the case) depends.

And now the sad statistics. Most service centers prefer "AAA" or "A" grade displays. They account for about 90% of repairs in Russia. An analogue of the "Original" class has long been out of the red book. Finding a service center that installs such displays is not easy.

How to understand which display was offered by the service center

It is difficult to determine a cheap fake "by eye". However, there are a few points, paying attention to which, you can at least try to avoid an outright divorce for money.

Price. The cost of the screen is 50-70% lower than the offers of competitors, but you are assured that this is an "Original" class display? Don't believe. Displays in this class are significantly more expensive than AAA. Between the class "Original" and "A" and the abyss.

Guarantee. Up to three months is the most adequate period. Nobody else will. And then, as you're lucky: either it will work for a long time and without fail, or the glass will begin to flake off, the sensitivity will drop, the coating will peel off.

Do they offer a warranty of less than a month? Pass by.

Backlight Uniformity. Remember, the replacement screen of the "Original" class (yes, the one that is the most expensive) has a uniform distribution of backlight over the entire area. No "it's darker here, but brighter here, and there's a bit of fog in the corners," especially around the edges.

Immediately after installation, without leaving the threshold of the service center that provided the services, check the quality of the work of the master. Are there any backlashes, was the iPhone case bent during the removal of the “native” broken screen, and does the new one respond well to pressing, strokes, and touches with several fingers.

Remember, having decided to save money, you risk getting your iPhone for regular screen replacement. It will be more expensive both for you and for the health of your gadget.