Which exposure meter is better. Metering modes

Modern photographers are given many opportunities to correctly expose the picture. Cameras are equipped with different types of exposure meters. Each of them is designed for specific lighting and tasks. It remains only to figure out how to use exposure metering in photography, what are the pros and cons of different types, how to choose the settings for a specific situation.

What is camera exposure

Metering is the calculation of exposure, which is necessary to create a picture. Cameras measure the brightness of the scene being shot in several ways. There are 3 types of metering:

  • spot or partial exposure metering;
  • matrix metering;
  • center-weighted metering.

From right choice camera exposure settings, it depends on whether the scene is correctly lit, whether there will be part of the frame, or vice versa - .

Spot and partial camera metering

Although these are two different types exposure definitions, they have one principle of operation. They evaluate a small part of the frame. Most often closer to the center. The point type analyzes 1-5 percent of the image. Partial - about 15 percent. Some camera models allow you to move the metering area from the center to other parts of the photo.

Plus spot metering in the accuracy of exposure of the selected fragments. It works especially well if the image captures contrasting objects. And also in situations where the selected fragment is sufficiently lit, and the background image is in shadow, or vice versa.

The disadvantage of this type is the possibility of losing the entire frame, except for the selected object. The rest may become too light or vice versa dark.

When to Use Spot Metering

They are rarely used by amateurs. And professionals know that in many situations one cannot do without it. For example, when shooting people in backlighting, you need to choose exactly spot metering. Otherwise, the person will be just a dark silhouette against a background of bright light. Also, point measurements are useful (if the object does not occupy the entire area of ​​​​the image) and shooting people or objects at a considerable distance.

This type is good when the image is evenly lit, while the subject itself is darker or brighter than everyone else in the frame. So spot metering will do just fine when shooting a white dove against a black wall or a girl in black against a light background.

Matrix camera metering

Unlike the spot mode, in the matrix mode, metering is performed in several areas of the frame at once, which are determined by the camera itself. The technique displays the average value of the ratio of light and shadow, as well as brightness in all selected fragments. This determines the exposure for the entire frame.

The algorithm by which matrix metering works is very complex, individual for different manufacturers and kept secret by them. Depending on the manufacturer, the image is divided into a certain number of zones. From a few tens to a thousand.

When measuring exposure, the camera analyzes not only lighting, but also focus points, color, distance from the subject to the camera.

When to use matrix metering

This type is most popular among photographers. It doesn't matter whether they are amateurs or professionals. It is especially useful when the scene is evenly lit.

Its advantage is versatility. Not knowing which mode is better to choose or not having enough time to analyze the future frame, it is better to set the matrix metering.

Center-weighted mode

This type is based on the analysis of 60-80 percent of the frame. The measurement area is circular and located in the center. Now there are models in which you can adjust the size of this zone. The edges of the photo only slightly affect the exposure of the frame.

Some time ago, center-weighted metering was the main thing in most cameras. Now it has remained as such in compact cameras, and in automatic mode it has been replaced by a matrix one in DSLRs.

Its advantage is the good exposure of the main objects. After all, as a rule, they are located closer to the center, and not at the very edge of the picture.

When to use center-weighted metering

It's perfect for . When the main subject is a person, it is more important to properly expose it than the surrounding objects and background. Center-weighted metering is more predictable than matrix metering. Thanks to him, the camera can eliminate the influence of the back of the picture on the portrait of the model. It is well suited for shooting people in . When using center-weighted metering, the pre-focus function comes in handy. It allows you to lock exposure metering for the period while the shutter release button is pressed halfway. So you can read the exposure by putting the subject in the center, and then shift the frame to Right place and then fully press the shutter button.

Which exposure meter is best for shooting

This question is asked by many beginners who decide to master their camera well. But there is no definite answer. After all, it all depends on the task and shooting conditions. The easiest way is to use matrix or center-weighted modes. In most situations, they expose the frame correctly. They are more versatile. At the same time, dimly lit objects that do not contrast well with the background are best shot with matrix metering. Contrasting - with center-weighted. And for more unusual shots, such as backlit portraits, spot metering is fine.

Exposure compensation - for best results

Since all types of metering take into account only reflected light, errors in the exposure of the frame may occur. In this case, exposure compensation must be used. A standard example is a winter landscape in a snowy forest or shots against white sand on a sunny day. They are likely to be underexposed. Exposure compensation by 1-2 stops will correct the situation, making the pictures better.

Exposure was, is and will be one of the key parameters in photography. With its help, you can "catch" the fastest car, "stop" a galloping horse, or you can get spectacular light plumes or make water "silk". All these effects are achieved due to exposure, but how to correctly set this parameter to digital cameras? This is where exposition comes in handy.

The situations in which you have to shoot are different, depending on the exposure mode, you can get the ideal shutter speed for the frame, or you can get too short or too long, which will lead to an excessively dark or overexposed photo.


How exposure metering works

AT Nikon cameras D300s/D800/D800E metering mode is changed using a dedicated switch.

So, exposure metering helps the camera set the appropriate shutter speed, as well as aperture (depending on the selected shooting mode), by measuring the amount and brightness of light in the frame. The easiest option for the camera when the scene is fairly evenly lit. However, life is often different, moreover, according to the photographer's idea, the light pattern of the frame can be distributed arbitrarily. This is where hiccups can occur. The problem can arise when there are multiple lights in the scene, or some areas are in shadow while others are well lit. To get a good result, you need to choose the appropriate metering mode. There are three modes in the camera settings:
" Matrix
" Center-weighted
" Spot (Spot)

Matrix exposure metering

By default, matrix metering is set for all cameras. It is versatile and suitable for most scenes. The essence of the algorithm is as follows: the camera analyzes the entire frame, dividing it into zones, and sets the exposure and / or aperture (depending on the shooting mode) according to the data received. Direct and back lighting is taken into account, the focal length and remoteness of the subject are taken into account. All this is true for type G or D lenses, in other cases a more simplified scheme is used. Are you satisfied with the results of matrix metering? Let's move on to the next option!

Center-weighted exposure metering

Center-weighted metering is also taken across the entire frame, but the central area is given significant priority. Using lenses with a built-in processor, in the camera settings, you can change the diameter of the priority zone - 8, 12, 15, 20 mm or average (the entire field of the frame). The default is 12 mm, to determine the appropriate option, it is worth experimenting with the settings.
Center-weighted metering is best used when the subject covers a large part of the frame, while there may be bright light sources behind it, such as the sun or a lamp.

Spot metering exposure

When using spot metering, the camera uses a very small area for setting shooting parameters - only 4 mm in diameter, which is about 1.5% of the area of ​​the entire frame. The focus point selected by the camera or manually and the area around it is given priority. Thus, it is possible to measure the exposure for subjects located at any point in the frame. For the mode to work again, a lens with a processor is required.
Spot metering ensures that the subject is correctly exposed, regardless of the overall lighting conditions in the frame. If the person is in the shade and the sun is shining brightly, this option will be preferable if you want to "stretch" the exposure for the person.

Metering and shooting modes

In the last article, we considered shooting modes - P/S/A/M. In the case of the program mode (P), the camera will automatically set the shutter speed and aperture depending on the scene, the selected metering option and the focus point. Further, you can adjust the combination of shutter speed / aperture parameters, thanks to a flexible program. By choosing a shutter-priority (S) mode, the camera will indicate whether the frame is correctly exposed if the aperture value does not meet the shooting parameters. For example, in extremely dark conditions, even f / 1.4 aperture may not be enough and you will either have to slow down the shutter speed or increase the ISO values, and possibly both. But how do you know if a frame is properly exposed? When looking through the viewfinder, the main or secondary screen (if available), you can observe the scale with steps. If the frame is overexposed or underexposed, the exposure indicator will show deviations in one direction or another.
With aperture priority, the camera will take over the task of setting the shutter speed, the photographer will have to decide on the desired depth of field, and also make sure that the shutter speed is optimal for obtaining sharp frame, when not using a tripod or monopod. Using manual mode, the camera will indicate if the frame is correctly exposed by displaying scale data.

Exposure compensation

Exposure compensation will help compensate for the shutter speed in the case when the result set by the camera's automatics does not suit you.

We reviewed the available metering modes, the principle of operation and possible settings. Moreover, we learned about how it works depending on the shooting modes and what to look for. But there are situations when the values ​​set by the camera are not suitable, and switching exposure modes does not help. In the case of the manual shooting mode, everything is clear, the camera recommendations can be bypassed without problems, in semi-automatic modes it is a little different. The user is presented with a convenient tool - exposure correction or its compensation. Next to the shutter button is another one, which shows a square with plus (+) and minus (-) values. By holding it down and turning the main control dial of the camera, the exposure can be compensated in one direction or another. The parameter itself is called the exposure value (EV, Exposure Value). It can be changed from +5 to -5 in increments of 1.0, 1/2 and 1/3 (adjustable in the camera). A handy tool that allows you to bypass most obstacles without having to switch to manual shooting mode.

How to change the metering mode?

On Nikon's entry-level cameras, accessing the metering settings is as simple as pressing the button, which will then open up other options.
In Nikon's entry-level cameras, such as the D3200 or D5200, the metering mode is changed by calling the menu with the Info button. In older models - D7000 and D600 - a button is allocated for switching the mode at the top of the camera, near the shutter. By holding it down and turning the main command dial, you can select the appropriate mode. If we are dealing with the D700, D800, there is a metering mode switch on the back of the camera. Lastly, the center-weighted metering options are found in the user settings menu, section Metering/Exposure.

Conclusion

Correctly set exposure metering will help to get a frame that does not have to be "pulled out" when editing. The choice of the optimal mode depends on the scene and shooting conditions, if the automation does not allow you to get desired effect, adjust the exposure, or switch to manual mode.

Thank you for the provided photo of the mountain landscape of Mikhail Boyarsky

exposure meter- device for instrumental measurement photographic exposure and determining the correct exposure settings.

Exposure metering mode- in modern photo and film equipment determines the method of evaluation brightness different parts of the frame during instrumental measurement exposure mainly by using the camera's built-in exposure meter.

Various metering modes have appeared with the development TTL exposure meters , since they are practically impossible with their other types. Moreover, modern digital and film cameras have the ability to measure both constant light and light in various modes. photo flashes , measured, as a rule, by the same sensors as continuous illumination.

Average measurement

With an average measurement the brightness of all parts of the frame is taken into account equally. Both external exposure meters and most of the built-in ones have this method of measurement. The first TTL exposure meters had only such a metering mode that is suitable for low-contrast scenes, but produces errors in case of a large difference in the brightness of the subject and background.

Center-weighted exposure metering

In this mode The sensor sensitivity is unevenly distributed over the entire field of the frame, reaching its maximum value in the center, where the main subject is usually located. central part small frame , bounded by a circle with a diameter of 12 millimeters, occupied 60% of the total measurement result. The proportion of the remaining parts of the frame was 40%, allowing more accurate measurement of most scenes. Unlike the spot mode, which is sensitive to the slightest changes in the position of the metering area and requires constant attention, the center-weighted metering is more average and suitable for reportage shooting.

Spot metering exposure

With spot metering, the exposure is measured by the brightness of a small area of ​​the frame, ranging in size from 1 to 5% of its total area. Usually the "dot" is located in the center of the frame, although many cameras allow you to set it in other places. Spot metering allows you to correctly determine the exposure of contrasting scenes without coming close to the subject.

For example, when shooting a brightly lit object against a very dark background (for example, an actor on a dark stage), using spot metering for a scene important part allows you to expose the subject correctly, ignoring the overall dark tone. And although this will underexpose the background, the desired subject will receive the correct exposure.

Partial measurement mode

Partial metering is a kind of point, covering a wider "point" of 10-15% of the total frame area. Unlike center-weighted, which takes into account the brightness of the entire frame in different proportions, partial measures only a limited area, like a spot.

Matrix (evaluative, multi-zone) exposure metering

Evaluative or matrix metering is based on dividing the frame into several segments, the exposure of which is independently measured, and the results are processed by the camera's microprocessor, determining the optimal exposure based on statistical data.


Proper exposure versus exposure set by the camera

Exposure is a complex beast. And conquering it is very, very important. Exposure and composition are the two most important components of great photography.

The exhibition consists of three components:

  • or sensitivity to light;
  • Aperture or the size of the hole through which light enters;
  • Shutter speed, or the amount of time that light will pass through.
You can shoot in Manual, Priority, or Aperture Priority mode, but that doesn't make the sensor judge the scene any differently.
Measuring the light or brightness of the scene you are trying to capture is a critical component in determining the ideal exposure. To do this, you need a sensor that can sense brightness levels.
Exposure is measured with a light meter. There are two types of light meters: the first measures the light falling on an object or scene, and is called a light meter, measuring by brightness; the second measures the light reflected from the scene or the selected object, which is why it is called a light meter that measures by illumination. All exposure meters built into digital cameras, are exposure meters that measure by illumination, and in this article we will talk about them. The better you understand how these light meters work, the better you will be able to understand and interpret the data they give you. Note that exposure meters that measure by brightness are much more accurate than exposure meters that measure by light.

How does your camera determine exposure?

Light-based light meters try to estimate the amount of light in the scene you are trying to capture. Unfortunately, this estimate is just a guess. You've most likely seen cases where you tried to photograph a very dark or black subject and it came out overexposed, or it was a snowy scene where the snow looked gray or underexposed. The reason is that the camera's light meter makes sure that most scenes are reduced to medium gray (18% gray). This medium gray is the middle between the darkest shadows and the brightest highlights. Since the sensor in a camera has no idea about white or black, you have to help it by using some form of exposure compensation based on the color scheme of the subject or scene.

Exposure metering modes

To work with exposure and determine the degree of exposure compensation, cameras have exposure metering modes. Typically you will come across three main modes: Matrix (also called Evaluative), Center-weighted and Spot modes. Each one is suitable for certain situations. And do not be mistaken that one of these modes will do everything for you.

Evaluative exposure metering

In this exposure metering mode, the sensor divides the scene into segments and analyzes each of them for the ratio of light and shadow (bright and dark information). When the information is collected, it calculates the average value and sets the exposure based on it. Please note that different cameras can divide the frame into a different number of segments. In addition, different cameras calculate the average value for exposure differently. Manufacturers use complex formulas to calculate exposure. Therefore, it is important that you know how your camera behaves in different situations, and learned to understand when he should be trusted and when not.
Many modern digital SLR cameras do not just average the values ​​obtained in the grid segments, but also pay special attention to the focal points that are used to create a particular photograph.
Matrix metering mode was used to set the exposure for the next series of photographs. In the same lighting, white and black panels were placed next to each other.
When taking the first photo, the camera set the exposure when pointed between the white and black panels. The camera judged all white and all black and came up with a logical solution by averaging the exposure.

Evaluative exposure metering - center between white and black panels

White panel measurement

This photo was taken while the camera's sensor was judging exposure from the white panel. White turned out to be gray, and black turned out to be a darker gray. This happened because the camera tries to make everything neutral gray or 18%.

Black panel measurement

In the third photo, the camera was judging the exposure from the black panel. As a result, the image was overexposed: the white was too bright, and instead of black, it turned out to be dark gray.

AT this method The most important measurement is the central part of the frame, which can be up to 75% or even more of the entire frame, while the edges of the photo are considered a less important part of it. Many professional digital SLR cameras allow you to change the diameter of such a center-weighted zone.
Many photographers prefer this mode of exposure metering, while getting quite good exposure accuracy. Please note that when using center-weighted metering, in most cases, you need to place the subject in the center of the frame, determine the exposure, and only then choose the right composition for the photo.

Spot metering exposure

In this mode, the light is measured only within a very small part of the scene. Typically, this zone is in the center of the photograph, and the measurement range is approximately 3 to 7 degrees. Typically, the measurement area occupies less than 5% of the frame. Most digital SLR cameras medium and high levels allow the photographer to move the metering point within the frame to determine the location from which the data should be collected (usually the same as the focus point).
This is a very accurate exposure metering mode. It provides accurate data from a small area of ​​the selected scene and is most effective when shooting scenes with high contrast.
All the same white and black panels were photographed using spot metering. As you can see in the photo below, there is a similar problem. Even the spot mode was fooled.

Spot metering on black (left photo) and spot metering on white (left photo)

In order to determine the correct exposure (and the camera didn't get fooled), spot metering was done on a gray card placed in the same light as the black and white panels. The exposure determined with the gray card was used to photograph two panels. In the photo below we see a good exposure.

Exposure determined from the gray map

How to switch between exposure metering modes?

The exposure metering mode icon looks like an eye in a rectangle. Your camera's exposure metering system may have three or more modes of operation. When you change the measurement mode, the icon will also change.

Which exposure metering mode to use and when?

Matrix exposure metering

Matrix metering is well suited for scenes that are evenly lit. It can come in handy if you need to take photos quickly. Although your camera's light meter can sometimes fail you, it is a sophisticated computer-controlled device and can be relied upon for general photography. You can set this mode on your camera and use it to improve your understanding of exposure.

Center-weighted exposure metering

Use this mode for any scene where you want the correct exposure for the main subject, while the correct exposure in other areas of the photo is not so important. This mode is great for portraits of people and pets, still life, and some types of product photography.
Center-weighted mode is much more consistent and predictable than matrix mode. Use it thoughtfully when deciding where the camera will measure the light in the scene, and pay attention to those areas where lighting is not key to your chosen composition.

Use this mode, for example, for street portraits, scenes with high contrast, goods and food shots.

Spot metering exposure

Spot mode gives the greatest metering accuracy and exposure control. It is great for backlit subjects, close-ups and macro shots. This mode can be used to determine the exposure for the brightest and darkest areas of a landscape. Without this mode, it is impossible to photograph the moon. Don't forget spot metering when it's important to get the right exposure for an object that doesn't fill the entire frame.
Spot metering excels in situations where the subject is much lighter or much darker than its surroundings.

Exposure compensation

In some situations, you will need exposure compensation to get the correct exposure, regardless of which exposure metering mode you are using. Scenes with a lot of snow will be underexposed and will need to be adjusted by +1 or large quantity stops so that the snow is white.
Conversely, a black shaggy bear or a person wearing dark clothes will be overexposed, so a negative correction of -1 or more stops will be required.

So which mode should you use?

The answer is that it all depends on the subject, the direction of the light, and so on. For evenly lit scenes, select matrix mode. Center-weighted mode is suitable for scenes with high contrast where you want the exposure to be correct for the main subject. Spot mode is good for shooting backlit subjects.
Finally, a light meter that measures brightness can be useful for accurately measuring exposure, as your camera's sensor is fairly easy to fool. But knowing how the light meter works in your camera will definitely help you get the right, more accurate exposure.

Many amateur photographers, not wanting to waste time and energy on mastering tedious and multi-letter topics in photography, remain laymen in the matter of exposure metering modes. And beginners and camera users are often completely unaware of the existence of this topic. No wonder, because soap dishes do not allow the user to control this process, carrying it out automatically. But having started using semi-or, it is important to understand this. Therefore, now we will consider how the technique does this and what exposure metering modes the camera has.

Who is this camera metering

Exposure is one of the fundamental criteria for the quality of the resulting image. In essence, this is the amount of light that will be captured by the camera in your photo. There are formations of this amount of light - , and . But these are factors that affect the control of light transmission on. But before falling into the "paws" of these three guys, the light is formed on the subjects themselves and measured by the camera's built-in light meter. The process of measuring the amount of light from a certain area of ​​the frame with a built-in exposure meter is called exposure metering.

Built-in exposure meter

In the old days, when shooting was carried out in manual mode, every photographer knew what a light meter was and knew how to work with it. In modern times, this miracle device is built into any photo and video equipment and can work without our intervention. Due to which the camera can work in fully automatic mode. The main and only task of the exposure meter is to measure the amount of light at specific points in the frame. This task is also performed by the built-in exposure meter of the camera, with only one “but” - it measures not the reference incident light, but the light reflected from the object. Therefore, it is easy to mislead him.

Various objects have varying degrees reflectivity of light, and the built-in exposure meter perceives all objects equally (neutral gray), since it is just a technique and cannot know what exactly the lens is pointing at now. Snow is one such popular trickster. Which, due to the high reflectivity of light, makes the technician think that it is much brighter than it actually is. As a result, remains. Therefore, to help the exposure meter, there are adjustments by which we help the camera decide which area to take a “sample” from to build the exposure.

Exposure metering modes

At the moment, there are several different modes for measuring exposure with a camera:

  • average exposure metering (obsolete);
  • matrix (evaluative, multizone) exposure metering;
  • center-weighted (center-weighted average) exposure metering;
  • partial exposure metering;
  • spot metering exposure;
  • froze in bright areas.

Average exposure metering

Also sometimes called "integral". I took into account the brightness of the entire frame equally. Suitable for low contrast scenes. Therefore gave common mistakes in exposure when shooting high-contrast shots, such as a photo taken against a bright sky. Further refined by camera manufacturers. So, some brands have adjusted the system to allow exposure metering with priority on the bottom of the frame and called it “auto contrast compensation”. Now considered obsolete and no longer used in modern cameras.

Matrix Metering

The camera measures light from all sensors throughout the frame. What makes this exposure mode the easiest to use, convenient for beginners and those who do not want to bother with zone measurements. Modern cameras manage to take quite decent shots in this exposure calculation mode. Except for high contrast scenes. If there is an object in the frame, for example, with room lighting and light from the window, then the camera, trying to balance the lighting, may produce unpredictable results. In such scenes, she needs help and uses more spot metering modes.

Center-weighted Average Metering

Also called "center-weighted average", for example, by the Canon brand. Takes data from a large area in the center of the frame, and when processed, the central part of the zone dominates. This option of measuring the exposure of light data from film cameras has migrated and is now not the most popular. There are several reasons for this. It is also easy to use, like the matrix. But at the same time, it is something in between the above - a matrix rendering of the exposure and a point one, which will be discussed below. As a result, a fairly intelligent matrix mode is easier and more convenient to use for beginners, and a dot one, although more complex, is better, performs its task more accurately and is preferable for pros.

Partial Metering Mode

The mode is similar in its methodology to center-weighted, but has a smaller coverage, about 15% from the center point of the frame. It is convenient when the subject and the background of the frame contrast strongly with each other - when the background is much darker or, on the contrary, much lighter than the object in the center. That is, this is again a transitional mode that fills the void between the matrix and spot metering modes. Also not very popular.

Spot metering

One of the most difficult and at the same time favorite and accurate modes for professionals, especially for lovers of portrait or subject photography. It is complicated by the fact that you yourself indicate to the camera from which specific point of the frame it should start in building the exposure. In this case, you need to be careful and think about the choice of the point. Specify too bright, get an underexposed image. Specify a very dark - get overexposed. Therefore, this mode is considered professional, since you need to understand the principle of exposure formation and indicate the point to the camera with this understanding.

But it opens up a huge potential for creative ideas. In your hands there is the possibility of creating high-contrast in a dark room and, for example, with a face partially immersed in shadow. Or the trees in the forest, pierced through the foliage by the sun's rays. Or a model against the background of a window with backlight hitting the camera lens. And taking into account the possibility of blocking exposure metering (discussed below), it is possible to further expand the boundaries of fantasy and taking measurements from the backlight that hits from the window, continue composing the frame and focusing on the model, create a black silhouette against the background of a bright window.

In general, the possibilities are huge, just invent and implement. But there are moments in which the point mode will not work. For example, a general portrait, a flock of animals. All options where the subjects are located at a distance from the selected point and may be illuminated differently. In such cases, modes with a larger sensor coverage area are better suited - matrix, center-weighted, partial.

Highlight metering

One of the newest exposure metering modes. It began its existence in cameras from the Nikon brand (D750, D810). Designed for photographers working with RAW format. As you know, overexposed areas of the frame are a headache for the photographer and sadness for the eyes of the viewer. After all, overexposure, unlike shadows, is impossible or almost impossible to revive by returning detail to them. Strong overexposure often remains a white burnt spot in the photograph. Highlight metering mode is designed to eliminate the possibility of this phenomenon. Focusing on the lightest areas of the frame, he builds the composition so that in the extreme case the frame is underexposed (darkish). In this case, as mentioned earlier, the calculation is that the image will be saved in raw RAW format and will be further processed in a photo editor. Since the raw RAW format, unlike the compressed JPEG, allows much more flexible manipulation of light and shadows. Due to which underexposed (dark) areas of the image will be stretched.

Metering lock mode

It is worth highlighting the capabilities of the camera for temporary blocking of exposure metering. Almost all modern semi- and professional equipment has such a function. It is achieved in two ways with some differences.

  1. The first option, in pre-focus mode (half-pressed shutter button). At this point, exposure and focus are metered and await your final decision. Which you can use to recompose the shot (change the subject) and complete the full press of the shutter. In this case, previously measured and recorded data are applied to the newly selected object;
  2. The second option is a separate button on the carcass (body) AE-L (Automatic Exposure Lock), which performs the same function, but without touching the focus and without half-pressing the shutter release. That is, by aiming at a subject with the desired lighting and pressing this button, there is some time to recompose the frame and focus on the new subject. Note that depending on the manufacturer, the (AF-L) (Automatic Focus Lock) function can also be assigned to this function. Which completely repeats the pre-focus mode. But in this case, the operating modes of this button can be configured in the camera settings.

What's the point? Often used for point and partial measurements. When you take a light test not from the whole frame, but from a specific point in the frame or part of it. This gives you unlimited possibilities for being creative with light.

As you can understand, each option for measuring exposure with a camera has its own irrefutable advantages and disadvantages. If you do not want to suffer with zone exposure modes, which require deeper knowledge and understanding of the issue, then your option is matrix. But remember, in scenes with backlight (bright light hitting the camera lens) and in high contrast scenes, the results will most often not be satisfactory. Many people like to use spot metering because the results are fairly predictable and under your control. But then you will need to use either the pre-focus function or the metering lock button. Or constantly, from frame to frame, run the point of choice of the exposure meter sensor in the frame. For owners of cameras with a new exposure metering mode for bright areas and who do not disdain further processing of the RAW file in a photo editor, oddly enough, the “highlights metering mode” is a priority :). That is, to each his own - a matter of taste. Whoever likes what type of measurement is taken into service.