Buying a new bike, some people immediately begin to ride it. However, it is important to take the time to set it up. Of course, shops often sell adjusted bikes. But since all riders are different in height, you need to customize the bike for yourself.

Many people know how important it is to adjust the saddle. Sometimes this is prompted by elementary intuition, because driving too low or high is extremely inconvenient. But when adjusting the saddle, many people forget how important it is to adjust the handlebars on a bicycle.

Why do you need to adjust the steering wheel?

There are several reasons for this:

• Health;
• Energy costs;
• Comfort.

Many beginner cyclists in the neck, back and arms already after an hour of riding. The reason for this is precisely the incorrect adjustment of the steering wheel on the bike. The optimal angle of the body and the even distribution of the load between the arms and buttocks (they account for most of the body weight) allows you to save muscles and joints.

In addition, an overly upright sitting combined with improper sitting compresses the vessels in the groin area, which in the future can create problems for both men and women.

The correct position, which is achieved by adjusting the handlebars on the bike in combination with the saddle, allows you to maintain strength for as long as possible. At the same time, the muscles are less prone to fatigue, and the cyclist will be able to.

Optimal Height

It depends on the person and the type of bike. For example, the height of the steering wheel should be slightly lower than the level of the seat. Due to this, air resistance is reduced, and the athlete quickly gains maximum speed and holds it longer. In this case, the body of the cyclist is located almost horizontally.

Having decided whether you need to adjust the handlebars on your bike in your case, you can get to work. But before that, it is worth determining what type of steering wheel is installed on your "iron horse".

Threaded handlebar adjustment

It is distinguished by the presence of a fixing nut at the junction of the handlebar stem with the frame. There is also a hex locking bolt on the top of the stem. You will need to adjust.

The top bolt is easy enough to loosen - you do not need to unscrew it completely. Then it is necessary to unscrew the threaded connection, represented by a nut at the base of the extension.

After that, the steering wheel can be raised. If the bike has already been used for more than one year, the steering wheel may have become attached. Therefore, it is worth moving it. Try not to jerk the reach too much, as you risk damaging the hoses and wires coming from the steering wheel. It is better to bring the bike to a table or other hill in advance, so that after dismantling, immediately put the steering wheel on it.

Then it is worth washing the stem and lubricating it with anti-seize grease. It should be applied 2 cm below the stem. This will prevent the pipe from getting stuck in the frame during installation. Having chosen the height that is optimal for you, you can install it in the reverse order. Tighten the fixing nut at the base of the frame first, and then the locking hex bolt.

Threadless handlebar adjustment

To adjust the handlebars on a bike with a threadless mount, you must first loosen the central hex bolt. Then remove the 2 bolts running perpendicular to the frame of the bike and located on the handlebars on the rider's side. This will allow you to remove the handlebar from the stem.

The next step is to determine the optimal height of the steering wheel and install it. Spacer rings will help you fix the steering wheel in the desired position. To reduce the height, they must be removed, and to increase, they must be added. If you do not have the required number of parts, you can always buy them in the store. Extra rings can be put on the stem over the handlebar and secured with a central bolt.

Having put on the steering wheel, it is necessary to fix the central bolt. Do not tighten it, otherwise you will not be able to turn the steering wheel. Also be careful not to damage fragile parts.

After that, you can begin to tighten the two hex bolts that fix the steering wheel on the stem. But before that, carefully check that the steering wheel is clearly perpendicular to the wheel. After tightening the bolts, ride the bike. If you feel the handlebar is a little loose, loosen the side bolts and tighten the center hex bolt a little. After that, fix the side fasteners.

Conclusion

Adjusting the steering wheel on a bicycle is a trifle, and this work will not take much time. However, the little things often matter the most. take care of your health and comfort. Good "rides"!

Digital cameras have become an integral part of modern life. They are a great way to capture forever. important points. However, while being as expensive as they are useful, cameras are also known for their fragility. Problems with a digital camera lens can occur for a variety of reasons. And specific repair approaches will depend on the specific camera model, but sometimes in order to get the lens to work normally again, all it takes is some critical analysis of the problem and light tapping in the right place.

Steps

Part 1

Check if a lens error message is displayed on the camera screen. Lens problems can have many different causes. If you're having this problem, first check to see if the camera is reporting any lens error on its screen. If so, this means that the camera itself has determined the specific cause of the problem. If there is no message, then the problem may be external (the lens is very dirty) or it may be caused by a temporary failure of the firmware.

Think about what happened to your camera not so long ago. Most problems with lens performance digital cameras occurs due to falls. There are many potential circumstances in which the camera could fall. And if you spill something on it or put it in an inappropriate place (for example, on beach sand), you can also damage the lens and the firmware of the device. Understanding the cause of the problem does not guarantee that you will be able to fix it, but it will make it easier for you to choose the right approach for further actions.

Read the user's manual that came with your camera. The user manual usually has a dedicated section on possible problems in the operation of a particular camera model. However, for the most part, the principle of operation of digital cameras is the same.

Part 2

Self repair

Remove the battery and memory card from the camera. A common workaround for problems with most devices (including cameras and cell phones) is to turn off the power for a few minutes. This allows you to reboot your device. If the problem with the lens was due to a firmware failure, then you can remove the battery and memory card for 15 minutes. Perhaps this will eliminate the error that has arisen with the lens.

Slap on the side of the camera. You may consider this action as a last resort - after all, this does not look like a repair at all - however, many people managed to fix problems with the camera by slapping the side of the device with the palm of their hand. If the problem with your camera is that your lens is stuck somewhere, a slap can release the stuck camera hardware and solve your problem.

Clean the lens barrel. A compressed air dust blower spray can penetrate all the crevices of the lens barrel and expel accumulated dirt from there. Blow air evenly through all crevices and areas where excess dirt may accumulate. Then turn off and restart the device to check how successful or unsuccessful the lens cleaning procedure was.

Connect the AV cable to the camera. It is possible that the camera needs a little more power to cope with dust particles clogging its lens. Connecting the camera's AV cable to the camera will turn off its display for five minutes and supply the device with additional power to operate the lens. If the matter lies precisely in the lack of energy, then the camera will be in perfect order in 5 minutes.

Move the stuck lens manually. Sometimes a problem with a camera lens can be purely mechanical. If the lens does not retract, only partially retracts, or retracts and then immediately retracts, gently rotating the lens by hand can help it stop jamming. You can gently push or pull the lens so that it can overcome the problem that prevents it from working properly. If the lens does not extend at all from the camera body, turn the camera upside down and tap the front of the camera against your cupped palm.

• You should hear a click when the objective lenses are in place.

1. Use forced autofocus. When digital cameras extend the lens while trying to autofocus at the same time, this action may correct a problem with the camera's lens. First, press the shutter button with the camera turned off to force the camera to focus. Then, while still holding the shutter button, press the power button on the device.

   Part 3

   Seeking Professional Help

   1. Contact the manufacturer of the digital camera. If you've ruled out easy-to-fix issues from the list of possible causes, it's a good idea to contact the device manufacturer. Call the hotline of the company that manufactured your camera. After contacting a representative of the company, describe the problems you encountered. If this is a fairly common camera problem, a technician may be able to offer you specific solutions for your specific camera model.

      • Digital camera manufacturers usually have information about phones on their websites. hotline in various countries.

   2. Take the camera in for repair. If you're unlucky enough to be unable to fix your camera problem yourself, it might be wise to seek professional help. Photographic and electronics repair shops can take your camera and fix it for a fee. It is recommended to hand over the equipment for repair only when you have exhausted all possible ways self-correction. You will be charged a lot of money for repairs, even if the entire repair procedure takes only a couple of minutes, so you need to be sure that applying for a repair will be worth this money.

   3. Buy a new lens for your camera. Many digital cameras have interchangeable lenses. At the same time, it is very likely that your camera belongs to a fairly common brand. Otherwise, we can say for sure that you are not the first and not the last person whose lens fails. If the camera is otherwise working perfectly, you can try buying a new lens for it. Lenses can usually be purchased both in photographic equipment stores and ordered directly from the manufacturer.

      • Change the lens yourself only if you know exactly what you are doing. Your camera's user manual should contain specific instructions for this procedure.

   4. Consider purchasing a new camera. Unfortunately, it may happen that you have no choice but to calculate your losses and simply throw your broken camera into the trash. Purchasing a new camera will save you the effort of repairing your old device, and will likely make you shell out a lot for a more advanced camera than what you previously had. If you've used your old camera enough long time, you may even come to the conclusion that purchasing a more modern device with better picture clarity will be a completely reasonable step for you.

      • Most modern smartphones have built-in cameras. This fact can save you from the urgent need to replace the camera with a new one if you have such a phone.
   • The best way to keep your camera lens in good condition is to never expose it to potential hazards. Take good care of your equipment and treat it with care every time you use it. Store the camera in a safe and secure place.

   Warnings

   • The need for even the most high-end digital cameras begins to disappear with the development and spread of telephone technology with cameras. Smartphones offer people almost the same features that digital cameras have. Keep this in mind when making your payment decision. professional repair old camera.
   • Use the lens troubleshooting methods in this article only if your camera is out of warranty. If it is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer's official service center for further service.
   • Observe special care when disassembling the camera yourself to avoid electric shock.

Here is a quote that caught my eye (from the dialogue between the client and the master of the workshop):

- "How much does it cost to repair or replace the lens of a Power Shot SX 10IS camera (minimum and maximum cost) - a post-warranty camera.
The camera did not fall. just gave a lens error. What is the repair time?

- "Good afternoon, Marina.
The cost of repairing the SX10 lens is 4800 rubles, lens replacement is most likely not required. The term is usually 1-2 weeks, depending on the complexity of the problem. All this is preliminary information, the final answer to your questions will be given by diagnostics, which we have for free.
Sincerely, Alex..."

And here is the material that I found on the Internet ... Maybe you shouldn’t lay out money right away? Need to try....

Lens failure - this has to be the most common digital camera failure. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (error zoom) (Fuji), "LensObstructed" ("lens problem") (Kodak) , "lens>error, restartcamera" ("lens error, restart camera") or just "lens error" ("lens error") (almost all camera manufacturers in recent times use this option). Some cameras may not show anything at all on the display, but only emit a beep, the lens drives in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.

The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canons) means that you do not have a card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping this cable installed as a skid when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra power to aid in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or blowing air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.

Now we are entering the area of ​​potentially dangerous ways camera rescue. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow doesn't help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help clean them up. Pay special attention not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.

Method 6: Repeatedly hit the rubber cap on the USB port with the intent to dislodge any particles that might interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or a cracked LCD screen.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this unless there is obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens pointing down, try "softly" tapping the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.

1.

Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position again. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop any further effort at that point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other methods.

Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

Both lovers and professional photographers faced with the fact that the mirror gives an error or takes pictures no longer as high quality as it was before. If the user did not drop, did not “drown” photographic equipment, then it is difficult to determine the cause “on the move”. To help with this, we have reviewed the classic malfunctions that occur with SLR cameras in this article. Read on to find out how to determine the cause, when you can fix the problem yourself, and when you should “fly” to the workshop.

Common Camera Problems: Causes, Diagnosis and Troubleshooting

Depending on the type of problem, the method of checking the camera is determined: diagnostics will help determine why the camera is not working.

Classic malfunctions that are inherent in cameras arise either due to assembly features, or due to time, dust and water ingress. By default, the most common problems with the camera are that the user cannot turn on the camera, the image quality is reduced, the flash does not work, or the shutter does not work.

Also, photographers are faced with a typical problem, which lies in the breakage of the screen. This happens more often with displays that support touch-type input: it becomes impossible to control the camera.

The camera does not turn on

Often photographers turn to a service center or specialized forums with a problem related to turning on the camera. There are several reasons why the device cannot be turned on: the device was dropped to the ground, hit, drowned in water, there were problems with the battery or.

How to find where the problem is?

To find out why the user does not turn on the camera, you should check the battery. It is advisable to supply a replacement that is definitely working to make sure the battery is the problem.

If there is no substitute, you must use a tester: the user measures the level of charge. If the value indicated is higher than the tester, then the battery is broken and will have to be changed.

It happens that a failed flash drive does not allow the camera to work correctly and even turn on. The user can find out that the matter is in a flash card only by changing it to a working one.

Important: just like a flash card, the lens affects the ability of the camera to turn on. To make sure that the matter is in optics, put a replacement option.

If, after the manipulations made by the user, the camera still does not turn on, it is necessary to check whether all covers are closed tightly enough: a loose or broken latch prevents the microswitches from being pressed.

Here are mini-problems that do not require the photographer to take the camera apart to diagnose. If all of the above components of the camera work, then the device will have to be disassembled.

Features of diagnostics and repair of cameras that are not included

Turn-on problems also occur due to the breakdown of the microswitches themselves. Checking the sensors for serviceability is possible only when disassembling the camera. Having disassembled the camera, a repairman or an ordinary user finds sensors that serve to switch the main functions of the camera among themselves, and “rings” them with a tester.

Are the micro switches OK? - It's about pay.

The most frequent breakdown, which the user can detect and fix only after disassembling, lies in the board. Repairing the main board on your own is not easy, but it all depends on the breakdown. The board contains fuses that fail over time: they are not repaired, but replaced with new ones.

When repairing and diagnosing at a service center, the master uses an oscilloscope, with which he checks the correctness of the pulses emitted by the elements of the camera. After checking the components and determining why the camera does not work, the master names the terms and price of the repair, which depends on the cost of the part and the level of complexity of the work.

Shutter not working

Incorrect functioning of the camera, which belongs to the type of SLR, is caused by a broken shutter. It is not difficult to determine that this is the case: a shutter malfunction leads to a “black picture” (images are not viewed - only a black background) - the matrix does not light up.

Important: when the shutter is stuck, only system-type data is displayed on the display, and on a black background, even if the screen is color. The flash is working at this moment.

How to determine that the case is in the shutter

It only takes two steps to make sure that the camera is malfunctioning due to a stuck shutter.

1. Seal the flash with electrical tape, colored tape (the limiter option, which is used for apartment repairs, is suitable).
2. Try taking a photo while looking into the camera lens.

If the shutter is working properly, then the user will see the shutter moving in the lens. But if the hole, which is located in the center of the lens, is closed, and no movement is observed during the picture, the shutter is stuck.

Features of repairing the shutter of a SLR camera

To begin with, the photographer should try to fix the DSLR shutter without disassembling the camera. To fix the problem yourself, the user will need to take an object equipped with a rubberized sheath: a screwdriver handle equipped with a rubberized coating will do.

The user needs to press the “shutter” and tap the handle on the side or bottom of the camera casing. By doing this, the photographer will eliminate sticking.

Important: if the manipulations described above do not help, the shutter needs to be cleaned. To do this, you have to disassemble the lens. Trust this procedure to a professional.

Lens breakage

The lens jams if sand enters the gaps: the problem is corrected by disassembling and cleaning. The camera is cracking, and its motor is making noise, if the photographer has problems focusing, it's about.

The user, including the camera, hears the gears crackle or buzz, but the lens does not move out, which means that the camera was dropped / knocked, which caused damage to the drive gearbox (the position of the mechanical parts was disturbed), or the gears related to the gearbox simply wore out.

Important:the user has the opportunity to repair the fixings of the gear casing by handicraft, but the mechanical parts (gears) are not.

The lens remains motionless, but the user does not hear extraneous sounds - a breakdown in the drive motor. Unprotected and caught in snow or rain, the lens let water into the motor - a part that is not resistant to corrosion.

Because of this, the rotor, collector are oxidized and wedged, and contact with the brushes of the apparatus is broken. In this case, the oxidized components are cleaned, but if the malfunction is not eliminated, the parts, or even the entire optics, will have to be changed.

You should know: the camera turns on, and the lens extends to the end, but a message appears on the screen indicating an error - the problem is in the sensor. The problem is corrected as follows: the lens is disassembled, and the broken sensor is replaced with a new one.

The SLR camera focuses and photographs slowly, and the sharpness in the pictures is not enough - these problems are caused by a “dried” focus motor. So, the lubricant in the focusing mechanism freezes, so there is not enough of it for the lens to move. To fix this, you will have to disassemble the photo lens, clean the mechanism that relates to focusing from thickened grease, and lubricate it with a new one.

A consequence of the fact that the camera lens does not focus on the object is the ingress of water.

At least once in a lifetime, each of us breaks down complex digital equipment. So my Canon A 460 family camera broke down, and, as always, at the most inopportune moment. The camera, of course, is not new, it was bought in 2008. All this time he served faithfully, did not let down even once. Of course, he is morally obsolete. Modern soap dishes boast dozens of megapixels and multiple optical zoom. But the Canon A 460 suits me perfectly, takes good pictures, is able to perform acceptable macro photography.

In general, the malfunction manifested itself at one moment, the photos began to turn out very white, as if canon a 460 light up photo. And characteristically, horizontal stripes are visible. Here are some bad photos:

But the video was filmed, as before, without changes. I immediately noticed that at the moment the shutter release button was pressed, there was no characteristic sound of the shutter curtains operating.

If you encounter a similar malfunction, do not be upset, most likely to blame. You will have to replace it with a new one - this is a typical malfunction. Although, to be honest, this activity is not for the faint of heart.

To get to the bowels of the lens, you need to disassemble the entire camera, which has small details. In addition, we are dealing with optics that do not like dust. Therefore, you will have to acquire patience and self-control.

Of course, you can buy a new lens and replace it entirely. But I could not find it cheaper than 800 rubles, although the shutter cable is not so cheap, around 160 rubles. In general, I decided to replace the cable. I photographed the procedure for disassembling the camera on my phone, I apologize for the quality of the photos.

Canon A460 disassembly

Let's start by removing two AA batteries. Then we take out a three-volt battery, which is responsible for the memory. We unscrew 5 bolts and do not forget about the sixth, which is located under the protective cap of the USB connector:

Immediately after the cover is removed and access to the main board appears, you need to discharge the flash capacitor.

Attention! Discharging the capacitor by simply shorting the leads is strictly prohibited, as the microprocessor may fail.

To discharge the capacitor, we use a low-power load, for example, a light bulb, which we unscrew from the refrigerator:

Then unsolder the wires to separate the board from the case:

We will further disassemble the Canon camera based on the photographs that I found on the Internet. True, I simplified the disassembly a little, excluding the removal of the matrix, and also refused to dismantle the main tube from the lens.

The new shutter cable looks like this:

We assemble the camera in the reverse order and preferably on the same day so as not to forget anything. When assembling the lens, I would like to draw your attention to the moment when we will attach the optical viewfinder. It consists of four lenses, two of which are movable and must move in sync with the retractable tube.

Simply screwing the viewfinder into place will not work, because the movable lenses are in their initial position and are held by springs, so the lenses do not fall into the guide grooves on the barrel. How can we get out of this difficult situation?

Some experts advise to extend the lens. I did it easier. I just removed the metal cover from the video finder, which is held on by latches:

Then we try to put it in place, simultaneously moving each movable lens, trying to get into the guide groove of the tube. After we have succeeded, close the lid:

Next, you should definitely make sure that the assembled lens is working. To do this, we use one finger-type battery. By changing the polarity on the motor, we make sure that the lens moves out completely, moves without delay, we observe the closing of the protective shutters, we check the performance of the viewfinder:

If everything works fine, then I congratulate you, you have overcome the most difficult operation of assembling the lens. It remains to collect the camera together.

This is what a broken camera shutter cable looks like:

I hope this article has helped self repair, and you did not have to look for a workshop where they could repair the Canon A 460 camera.