Double-sided adhesive tape for the touchscreen: which one is better? The procedure for payment by electronic money, bank card, from a mobile account.

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Our attentive readers will remember that from time to time our friends at YourOptibay delight us with useful instructions for repairing our computers. Today we are waiting for a fascinating story about how to upgrade the penultimate SSD drive thin iMac 21.5" Late 2012 in addition to the stock HDD for later FusionDrive.

Step 1

Before starting any work with the iMac: Disconnect it from the mains and hold down the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply capacitors. Before disassembly, we advise you to wear special antistatic gloves.


Step 2

We insert a special knife to open the iMac. We immerse it in the gap between the case and the screen of this disk, and, moving up, slowly separate the screen from the case.

Step 3

We use it like a pizza cutter. When moving up, the disk will rotate, cutting the double-sided tape.

Step 4

We cut through the double-sided tape on all sides, except for the bottom.

Step 5

We attach two suction cups and gently pull up, lifting the display. Don't rush, it may take some time. As soon as the screen rises slightly, we separate the adhesive tape from the display with a spudger.

Step 6

While holding the display with one hand, disconnect the display power cable. Be careful not to raise the display more than 15-20 centimeters. iMacs still have cables connecting the display and the case.


Step 7

Disconnect the display data cable from its socket on the motherboard. To do this, lift the bracket that secures the cable connector in the connector on the motherboard, and then lift the screen.

Step 8

With a little effort, we remove the cable of the right speaker.

Step 9

We unscrew the two T10 10 mm screws that secure the right speaker to the monoblock body.


Step 10

We separate the right speaker from the back of the case, approximately 1.5 cm, until we can see the antenna cable running along its right side.


Step 11

Using the sharp end of the spudger, we remove the antenna cable from the grooves, moving from top to bottom.

Step 12

Carefully pull out the right speaker two centimeters up, and then tilting it out.

Step 13

We unscrew the 4 screws that secure the brackets holding the hard drive:

    2 screws 21 mm T10 Torx
    1 x 9mm T10 Torx screw
    1 x 27mm T10 Torx screw


Step 14

Remove the right and left brackets that secure the hard drive.

Step 15

Antistatic gloves are especially recommended for this step. The work takes place close to the power supply, and in their absence, there is a possibility that the accumulated voltage on the capacitors will hit you. With a little effort, we remove the power button cable from the connector.


Step 16

With light movements to the right and left, disconnect the power control cable.


Step 17

We unscrew the 2 screws 7.2 mm T10 that secure the power supply board.


Step 18

Tilt the power supply forward. The board has a lot of capacitors, so it is not recommended to do this operation with bare hands, as there is a chance of getting an electric shock.


Step 19

Lift and slightly turn the power board counterclockwise.


Step 20

Slightly shift the power board to the right and lift it up a couple of centimeters. Be careful: the complete removal of the board will be a little further. On the this moment the power board is still connected to the motherboard.


Step 21

We hold the board exclusively by the edges - there is a chance of getting an electric shock. We turn off the loop with light movements to the sides.


Step 22

Disconnect the power cable from the motherboard and pull it out.


Step 23

Disconnect the cooler cable from the motherboard.

Step 24

We unscrew 3 screws 12.3 mm T10 that secure the cooler to the case. We take it off.

Step 25

Raise the hard drive.

Step 26

Disconnect the power cable and data cable of the hard drive. We remove the hard drive.

Step 27

Remove 1 7.2mm T10 screw that secures the hard drive bay.


Step 28

Pull out the hard drive bay.


Step 29

Disconnect the left speaker cable.

Step 30

We take out the cable of the left speaker from the clamp.

Step 31

We remove the data cable and the hard drive power cable.

Step 32

We lift the metal bracket with a small handle and take out the cable.

Step 33

Disconnect all 4 antenna/AirPort connectors. We remember in what order these connectors were located.

Step 34

Disconnect the headphone port cable from its socket.


Step 35

We unscrew the four screws that secure the radiator to the monoblock body.

    2 x 6.3mm T8 screws
    2 x 4.7mm T8 screws

Step 36

Remove the 4 7.2mm T10 screws holding the motherboard.


Step 37

Very carefully remove the motherboard. Be careful not to let any wires get in the way of removing the motherboard.

Step 38

Step 42

It is necessary to disassemble the case of the SSD disk, and remove the board from it, to place it in the iMac case. We cut the double-sided thermal tape into four squares and arrange them, as in the photo. We place the SSD drive board on the iMac's case next to the left speaker.

Step 43

We return the motherboard to its place, fix it according to the steps in the instructions. We lay the power cable around the cooler. Be careful: you need to arrange the cable so that it does not touch the cooler blades, this threatens to overheat and damage the iMac. We lay the data cable on top of the cooler and connect it to the SSD. We put the hard drive in place. We connect it.


Step 44

We remove the old double-sided tape, first prying it with a spudger, and then slowly pull it up.

Step 45

After removing the old double-sided adhesive tape, it is necessary to degrease the surface where we will apply the new adhesive tape, both on the case of the monoblock and on the case of the display module. We recommend using solvent 646. You need to stick a new double-sided tape on the case and install the screen, remembering to connect two cables to the connectors on the motherboard.

Conclusion:

Thus, we were able to upgrade the stock iMac 21.5” configuration with a conventional HDD hard drive on board — an additional 250Gb Samsung SSD. Now the all-in-one is ready to install FusionDrive and then install Mac OS X. The performance gain is 4 to 10 times. For example, the OS began to boot in 12 seconds instead of 50 seconds in the standard configuration.

If you doubt that you yourself will be able to make a replacement, we recommend that you contact the specialists from YourOptibay.ru. Our office iMac literally took on a new life and turned from a sluggish and tired computer into a jaunty monoblock that solves all the tasks assigned to it easily and, most importantly, quickly.


Modern internal interfaces for connecting individual nodes within digital technology are almost impossible to imagine without loops.

These multi-core connections take on the role of a movable joint of electrical boards, individual models and other circuit nodes.

The most common types of loop connections include:

  1. Soldering (one of the most reliable methods, but it requires a certain technological process and equipment, overheating of circuit elements during soldering can damage them).
  2. Various mechanical joints (clamps, inserts, etc., making such a connection is very simple, no additional equipment or skills are required, the disadvantages include low reliability - the cable may not be fully pressed, contacts oxidize over time, etc.) .
  3. Sticker on conductive glue / adhesive tape (we will dwell on this method of connecting cables in more detail).

What are the types of conductive adhesive for the cable

Initially, adhesive technologies were used to mount a chip on a substrate using a special conductive paste. In this case, soldering (that is, heating) was not required, the paste solidified, providing the necessary heat removal and electricity conduction.

Later, the technology was adopted to connect various kinds of displays and other digital equipment nodes.

Conductive adhesives provided reliable and fast adhesion with minimal dimensions (since there is no need for special connectors).

Modern conductive adhesives can be:

  • Isotropic. They differ in that inside the conductive material there are no restrictions on the direction of current propagation, the medium is homogeneous. These can be ICA (Isotropic Adhesives) or ICP (Isotropic Pastes).
  • Anisotropic. Inside a conductive material, current only propagates in a certain direction. This group includes ACA (anisotropic conductive adhesives) and ACF (anisotropic conductive films).

The latter are most widely used in household appliances. So, using ACF, you can glue the cable to the matrix of the LCD TV. The current will pass between the connected contacts strictly perpendicular to their surface inside the anisotropic adhesive tape.

The use of any adhesive mixtures is associated with certain restrictions. Various ACF films (adhesive tapes) are designed for bonding certain types of materials, require compliance with temperature and humidity conditions, the absence of dust and other small particles that prevent adhesion, as well as certain conditions for pressing the surfaces to be glued (minimum force, heating, etc.).

An important indicator of the use of ACF is the minimum required gap between the contacts (each type of film has its own).

VIDEO DESCRIPTION

How and how to glue the cable to the board

Most modern boards for digital technology use a mechanical method for connecting cables, however, in some cases, anisotropic conductive films (adhesive tape) or adhesives can be used.

To glue the flex cable to the board in the case of ACF it is necessary:

  1. Clean up any remaining joint/adhesive tape with isopropyl alcohol.
  2. Take an anisotropic adhesive film (suitable, for example, 3M Z-Axis 9703, be sure to make sure that the distance between the contacts does not exceed 0.4 mm before use, since a short circuit can be obtained with a smaller size).
  3. Remove the first protective layer and stick the film on the board.
  4. Remove the second protective layer from the ACF film.
  5. Correctly match the contacts of the cable and the contacts on the board, attach the cable and evenly press it against the surface of the board with sufficient force.

When carrying out work, be sure to take into account that there should be no dust and small particles in the air (if the sticker is made at home, work can be done in the bathroom).

The room temperature must be between +20°C and 38°C (but never below +10°C).

How to stick a cable to the display - a description of the method

The technology for mounting cables using conductive adhesive tape is identical to the process of connecting a cable and a board.

Differences can only be in supported materials (for example, Axis 9703 adhesive tape is not recommended for mounting on glass surfaces, only 5352R and 5552R films from the same manufacturer are suitable) and the minimum recommended gap between the contacts (for example, 3M Z-Axis 5552R film can be used with distance between contacts is less than 100 microns).

Some conductive films or adhesives may require heat or high force applied to the surfaces to be bonded during installation.

Before buying in without fail refer to the film/adhesive specification. Specify how to apply.

Repairing torn cables with conductive tape

It often happens that in the process of disassembling displays or other complex equipment, when peeling off the cable, excessive force is applied, and it breaks.

The acquisition of such a seemingly simple element can become an almost impossible task, since similar conductors cannot be found on sale, as well as donors (broken equipment from which spare parts can be removed).

In this case, ACF film or glue will save the situation, regardless of the type of cable.

The procedure is as simple as in the case of connecting the cable to the board or monitor.

  1. The damaged section of the loop is cut out. To do this, the conductor is completely cut at a right angle in two places along the edges of the gust (damaged area).
  2. If necessary, in the area to be joined, the current-carrying parts are exposed (if the conductors are insulated in the middle of the loop) and treated with alcohol.
  3. The first layer of protective film is removed from the ACF, and the adhesive tape is applied to the end of one of the cable cuts.
  4. The second protective layer is removed and the second piece of the plume is applied.
  5. Depending on the requirements of the film installation technology, heating or a sufficient compressive force of the junction may be required (here it is important to consider that heating is contraindicated for some types of cables, which means that the connecting film should be selected with installation without heating).

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

The disadvantage of this method of recovering the loop is the reduction in its length.

Fair, not too high or too low. There should be prices on the Service website. Necessarily! without "asterisks", clear and detailed, where it is technically possible - the most accurate, final.

If spare parts are available, up to 85% percent of complex repairs can be completed in 1-2 days. Modular repairs take much less time. The site indicates the approximate duration of any repair.

Warranty and Liability

A warranty should be given for any repair. Everything is described on the site and in the documents. A guarantee is self-confidence and respect for you. A 3-6 month warranty is good and enough. It is needed to check the quality and hidden defects that cannot be detected immediately. You see honest and realistic terms (not 3 years), you can be sure that you will be helped.

Half the success in Apple repair is the quality and reliability of spare parts, so a good service works directly with suppliers, there are always several reliable channels and a warehouse with proven spare parts for current models so that you do not have to waste extra time.

Free diagnostics

This is very important and has already become a rule of good form for the service center. Diagnosis is the most difficult and important part of the repair, but you should not pay a dime for it, even if you do not repair the device after it.

Service repair and delivery

Good service appreciates your time, therefore offers free shipping. And for the same reason, repairs are carried out only in the workshop of the service center: it can be done correctly and according to technology only at a prepared place.

Convenient schedule

If the Service works for you, and not for itself, then it is always open! absolutely. The schedule should be convenient in order to be in time before and after work. Good service works on weekends and holidays. We are waiting for you and working on your devices every day: 9:00 - 21:00

The reputation of professionals consists of several points

Age and experience of the company

Reliable and experienced service is known for a long time.
If a company has been on the market for many years, and it has managed to establish itself as an expert, they turn to it, write about it, recommend it. We know what we are talking about, since 98% of incoming devices in the SC are restored.
We are trusted and passed on complex cases to other service centers.

How many masters in the directions

If you are always waiting for several engineers for each type of equipment, you can be sure:
1. there will be no queue (or it will be minimal) - your device will be taken care of immediately.
2. you give away macbook repair an expert in the field of Mac repairs. He knows all the secrets of these devices

technical literacy

If you ask a question, the specialist must answer it as accurately as possible.
To give you an idea of ​​what you need.
Will try to solve the problem. In most cases, from the description, you can understand what happened and how to fix the problem.

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If the product is not currently in stock at the pickup point, you can always place an order and receive it in 2-3 days. It will be sent from the Moscow warehouse, as soon as the order arrives, you will be immediately notified.


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Delivery is carried out only to the home address or to the office. We do not deliver orders on the street, in the subway or at railway stations.

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If the product is not currently in stock at the pickup point, you can always place an order and receive it in 2-3 days with our courier.


You can receive your order in St. Petersburg at any address within the ring road for 330 rubles or arrange courier delivery outside the ring road (up to 10 km + 390 rubles), then 30 rubles. for 1km.


Delivery is limited inside in the South-West to Pionerstroy Street, in the North-West to Shuvalovsky Prospekt.

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Delivery by Russian Post.
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From 2-12 days
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