To make a print at home, you will need:

• laser black and white printer IMPORTANT detail!!! wax-based powder toner is often found in color laser printers. Wax transmits light and does not give high-quality illumination. Color laser printers from CANON, Samsung, Epson are not suitable, you need a regular office black and white printer, something like HP) Set the toner consumption to the maximum;
• ultraviolet lamp (the cheapest lamp for helium nails without a timer with a top lamp will do. Side lamps are not needed. this is superfluous);
• 2 glass plates 8x8 cm;
• 2 paper clips (binder);
• stopwatch (available in every phone);
• double-sided foam tape 0.5 cm thick (you can use 0.2 in three layers);
• photopolymer (can be ordered online);
• dishwashing liquid;
• film for printing on laser printers (suitable for Lomond, ideally buy kimoto in the same place as the photopolymer);
• toothbrush (soft);
• baby powder;
• toothpicks or a needle;
• hair dryer;
• soft brush.

To make a seal, you need to create a sketch of this seal. This will require a minimum knowledge of Corel Draw.

If you want to make a seal of an existing notary or, for example, a tax one, then you will need to import the jpeg file into Correl. And on top of it, outline it by picking up fonts that are as similar as possible to the original print.

I give you ready-made print sketches in CDR format for training:

(fonts in the archive, install in advance) bank and branch data can be changed, printing is not blocked for editing:

(the relevance of the seal is the end of 2013), you can change the data to another notary, if you will provide certification in another city and region, then the original version of the seal is not required. No one ever checks the print for a hundred percent match with the original for a thousand miles.

Moscow No. 46 copy 7 (in practice, I have seen stamps of this tax stamp copies 2, 4, 7, all stamps are the same, only one number changes in the middle just below the center.) The sketch is as close as possible to the original stamp. The fonts are standard, pre-installed on all computers, but in any case, you may experience deviations in the display of fonts due to different versions of Windows. The tax stamp is flattened by 1 millimeter, this is taken into account in the sketch! The seals of notaries, tax and other authorities are specially flattened to increase protection against counterfeiting.

We look for how to invert the image of the color of the sketch in YouTube, place the negative of the print on a black square 8x8 cm in the middle. you should end up with all white text on a black square after inverting the image.

And so let's get started!

You have prepared a print sketch, inverted the image in a mirror position and changed white to black, black to white and you have a negative! We print on film.

We take a glass plate, glue the side of the glass with double-sided adhesive tape on a foam basis, you get an almost tight square-shaped bath with a side of 5 - 6 mm.

Pour the photopolymer into the bath (I do this not from a bottle, but from a syringe. I made a small hole in the lid of such a size that the spout of the syringe of 20 cubic meters fits tightly there. We turn the jar upside down and draw the photopolymer into the syringe. In this way, bubbles do not get into the photopolymer air, which will not need to be removed additionally.) fill the bath to the brim with a syringe, until a light lens forms above the surface of the rim. if bubbles appear, bring them to the surface with a needle or toothpick.

We put our negative facing the photopolymer, lightly press it with our finger so that it sticks tightly to the photopolymer. Here, a couple of drops may spill out of your tub. This is fine.

We put a second glass on top of this negative.

We clamp this "sandwich" with paper clips (binders) on both sides.

We put the "sandwich" in the UV lamp with the negative down! It is important! Right down.

We turn on the lamp simultaneously with the stopwatch for 1.5 minutes. Later on, you train with time, the exposure time depends on the thickness of the applied toner on the negative, on the strength of your lamp, on the quality of the photopolymer, denser ones illuminate faster, more liquid ones a little longer. Here at the will of the experimenter.

After 1.5 minutes, turn off the lamp, take out the "sandwich" and turn it over with the negative up, put it in the lamp, repeat the exposure.

We turn off the lamp, take out the "sandwich" and disassemble it. Carefully without damaging the seal itself, peel off the negative from it, remove the sides, disconnect our seal from the glass. Now it's sticky for you. We go to the source of running water, pour dishwashing liquid onto this seal, take a soft toothbrush and wash away excess photopolymer with light movements in a circle. Rinse until it is clean. But still a little sticky. Then dry it with a hair dryer on a cold setting until the water is completely removed. Sprinkle generously with baby powder and shake off. Remove excess powder with a soft brush.

You can additionally illuminate in the lamp for 2-3 minutes to increase the rigidity. (not necessary).

Your print is ready.

We cut your seal in a circle with scissors, glue a thin double-sided tape to it, put it on the base.

A notary seal, for example, may be needed if you want to receive, for example, a Yandex money wallet with the status Identified. The Yandex office offers us identification options in the form of coming to their office or sending a notarized copy of the passport. Here you just go to the nearest notary, certify your personal passport, see what text the notary writes and how it draws up the certification. in the same way, you draw up a passport for your drop at home as a real notary does, put your seal and send a letter to the Yandex office without notification by regular mail from the address of your drop. After 2 weeks you get a wallet with a large limit.

A bank seal can be needed anywhere! For example, I needed to confirm the address in a stick, and they asked for a utility bill, it was generally simple here. I didn’t even make it, but just printed it on an inkjet printer on top of the receipt and just took a picture in my hand and sent it to a stick. A day later I received a limit on the withdrawal of 10 thousand ye.

There was a case from life. An acquaintance sent cargo in wagons and he needed a quarantine certificate for each wagon. The times were wild and before the reform of the quarantine inspection, they printed certificates on office paper in 2007. The cost of one certificate is 6 thousand rubles, there are more than a hundred cars. The inspectors themselves earned extra money by printing them to those who wished for half the cost of the certificate without wiring, until they were caught and imprisoned. But in any case, the production of a seal to my friend cost a hundred times cheaper than the profit received.

Need to decorate fabric or gift paper and are you looking for what to make a stamp out of? In this article, we will give examples of how to make a stamp with your own hands. We have collected 20 great ideas for you!

What is the stamp made of? Don't ignore stationery!

The first material from which you can make a stamp is an ordinary stationery eraser. It costs a penny and is in every home. In order to make such a stamp with your own hands, you will need an eraser, a pen and a stationery knife:

Continuing the theme of stationery, do not forget about the eraser on the pencil. This stamp is comfortable to hold and the resulting bokeh looks incredibly cute. And do not forget that peas are always an up-to-date print:

If you think that polka dots are the maximum of a pencil eraser, you are deeply mistaken. By analogy with a regular eraser, you can make a stamp out of this with your own hands:

DIY stamp from vegetables and fruits

Take a closer look at the objects familiar to you, among them there will surely be interesting textures and the question “what to make a stamp from” will disappear by itself. Consider fruits and vegetables. Cut and dried lemon will allow you to get an interesting print:

Potato is a universal thing, because from it, like from an eraser, you can cut a stamp of the desired shape:

Don't be afraid to experiment. Apples are a popular stamp. They can be cut both lengthwise and across:

We cut off 1/5 of a head of Chinese cabbage - a do-it-yourself stamp is ready:

What else can you make a stamp out of?

Pay attention to textiles: threads, yarn, sisal, jeans, lace - all this can be used to make a stamp with your own hands:

Do-it-yourself stamp ... made of plastic? Why not!

Once again, pay attention to the materials at hand that surround you daily. Plastic and polyethylene will help with this. By the way, plastic disposable forks can be used twice in this way in order to somehow justify their use.

Cocktail tubes are a finished stamp in themselves. By the way, did you know that disposable straws for cocktails are among the top items polluting the ocean?

Take a closer look at plastic storage baskets, you may see interesting patterns on their bottom:

The pimply film, beloved by many, solves the question of what to make a stamp from:

Like cling film:

Wood is an eco-friendly do-it-yourself stamp

If you are not an adherent of the use of plastic, then you should turn to more environmentally friendly options. A wine cork is an excellent base for creating a stamp:

Mysterious patterns on a cut of a tree - a great stamp:

As you can see, there are a lot of options to make a stamp out of - turn on your imagination, look at the objects around you and find unusual solutions!

Today, you can find a seal manufacturing company in any more or less large city. The cost of production ranges from 300 to 800 rubles, depending on the complexity and urgency of the order. But there are situations in which it is impossible to contact the company. How to make a print, facsimile or ex-libris yourself?

First of all, let's define the terminology. What's happened seal probably everyone knows. Facsimile and ex-libris are also seals, only they have a slightly different meaning.

Facsimile- a seal that repeats a person's handwritten signature. It is used when it is necessary to sign a large number of documents. In most cases, from the point of view of the law, the use of a facsimile is equivalent to a signature in one's own hand.

ex libris- a book sign, most often applied to the inside of the binding and indicating that the book belongs to a particular owner. An ex-libris is also called a seal that affixes such a sign.

Technologically, prints, facsimiles and bookplates are produced in exactly the same way, differing only in the content of the print. There are several printing technologies. We use one of the simplest and most affordable - casting from thermoplastic polymer in an engraved shape.

Making a seal, facsimile, ex-libris begins with the manufacture of a blank for a mold. To do this, you can use a plastic or even paper box of a suitable size - a jar of sour cream, mayonnaise, yogurt, a disposable cup. I had at hand a package of chips and a paper Aeroflot cup. We cut the blanks to make a ring 2-3 cm high.

The ring is attached with plasticine to a piece of ordinary or organic glass. The fastening will not allow the form to move or "float" on the gypsum mortar. The glass surface must be clean, smooth and without scratches.

For casting, building gypsum (alabaster) is used. Alabaster hardens quickly and gives a smooth, clean surface. You can knead it in a special rubber cup (sold in hardware stores) or any other elastic container. An elastic glass will allow you to easily get rid of the remnants of gypsum after hardening. You can also dilute alabaster in any unnecessary dishes that you don’t mind throwing away after use.

First, the required amount of gypsum is poured into the container, and then, constantly stirring, water is added. Need to add water in small portions, it's easy to overdo it. There were just semi-dry lumps and already right there - too liquid mass. The optimal density of the solution is like liquid sour cream or kefir. If the solution is too liquid, then you need to add dry gypsum.

Ready, well-mixed solution without lumps is poured into the mold. In order for the gypsum to fill all the corners, the form needs to be well shake. There will not be a large load on the gypsum, so a layer of 10-15 mm is enough.

It is better to cast several blanks at once, at the next stage they can be easily spoiled, especially if printing, facsimile or ex-libris is done for the first time. After 30-40 minutes, the plaster hardens enough to be removed from the mould. Most often, the paper form will have to be cut for this. Plastic molds with beveled walls can be reused.

Now we have received several “pancakes” with an almost mirror-like surface, but still dark from moisture.

You can relax - the "pancakes" should dry at least 2-3 days until they acquire the perfect white color and become light and sonorous on impact. The process can be accelerated by drying the discs for 2-3 hours in an oven at a temperature of 150-200 degrees. Heating and cooling must be gradual otherwise the plaster may crack.

In the meantime, you can start preparing the content of the print. The easiest way to prepare a print or an ex-libris is in any graphic editor. Making too small signs and decorations does not make sense - the technology used is rather crude. It is best to count on a line thickness of at least 1 mm and a line spacing of at least 2 mm.

WITH facsimile the matter is a little more complicated, in this example we will consider the manufacturing technology. To receive the original, you need to sign several times on a piece of paper and choose the best signature. The sheet with the signature is scanned or photographed, and the signature enters the computer. Here it can be corrected and scaled to the desired size.

Just in case, several copies of the signature can be made on the sheet and printed on thin writing paper or tracing paper.

Now, with the help of carbon paper, the seal, ex-libris or signature is transferred to the surface of the alabaster disc. The image on the disk must be "straight". Then on the cliché it will turn out to be mirror-like, and on paper it will again give “direct” prints.

Now the most difficult stage. Print lines need to be deepened into the alabaster by about 1 mm. This is best done with an electric engraver with a suitable cutter. The rotation speed of the tool should be about 10-15 thousand revolutions. This will give you a clean surface of the lines. If there is no engraver, then the work can be done with any hand tool - a cutter, a scalpel, the tip of a knife, a sewing machine needle, an awl. This, of course, is longer, and the lines may not be as smooth. Please note that the grooves in the alabaster must be not less than 1 mm wide with straight or beveled outward walls.

Alabaster is processed quite easily, and if the print is simple, then everything will certainly work out the second time around. With complex printing, facsimile and bookplate with many curls and intersecting lines, you will have to tinker. It is possible that you will have to return to the previous step and edit the image. For a facsimile, you can try to sign with a thick felt-tip pen, it is easier to make such lines on alabaster.

After receiving a satisfactory print, you can proceed to casting cliche. In order for the casting to easily separate, the surface of the alabaster is impregnated with any oil, even sunflower oil. Too much oil should not be poured, all recesses should be saturated, but liquid oil on the surface is not allowed. If there is too much oil, then the surface should be blotted with a paper towel.

We will cast the seal from ethylene vinyl acetate. This dreaded name actually refers to a readily available, strong, lightweight and elastic polymer that is used to make hot glue sticks for hot glue guns. Cured ethylene vinyl acetate does not absorb moisture, is resistant to oils, various solvents and stamp paint.

To prevent the polymer from spreading too much, you can make the sides of paper by gluing them to the surface of the alabaster disc. Or you can not do it, then the excess material will simply be cut off.

glue gun warms up well for maximum adhesive flow. After that, the surface of the alabaster with the signature is filled with a layer of glue 3-5 mm thick. For better penetration of ethylene vinyl acetate into the thin grooves of the print, the disc can be heated with a conventional or building hair dryer.

After 10 minutes, the hardened adhesive layer is easily separated from the oil-soaked surface of the alabaster.

With side lighting, the relief lines of the resulting cliché are clearly visible.

Excess casting material cut off stationery knife. The cutting lines should be as close as possible to the print elements (1-2 mm), otherwise, with strong pressure, the free surface may bend and stain the print.

It remains to choose or make a suitable pen - and the print, facsimile or ex-libris are ready! As a pen, it is convenient to use an old snap from some kind of seal or stamp. Now you can try to make a print.

When using a facsimile, keep in mind that it may not be possible in all situations. General rule - facsimile forbidden use on documents that lead to significant financial and material consequences.

Seals are needed not only to certify official documents. Do-it-yourself prints are especially relevant for children who love to draw, and craftswomen who make semi-antique art letters or just do scrapbooking.

Today you will see three ways to make a seal and a few more videos with new ideas.

The simplest and cheapest version of a homemade stamp is made from potatoes. The main advantage of this material is that it is very easy to cut any shape out of it. The ink from such a print is easily washed off after use, because the potato does not absorb it. So how do you print?

1. Consider in advance the shape of the desired print.
2. Cut one potato in half.
3. Now you need to draw a figure on the cut with a pencil and cut it out.
4. Remove the pulp outside the borders of the picture.
5. If desired, a handle can be cut into the potato print.

Wax or sealing wax seal

If you want to make a more complex seal, stylized antique, then wax or wax seal is perfect here. Of course, making it more difficult than the previous one, but the result is worth it.

• A piece of flat wood stick
• Narrow tape
• Picture print on thick paper
• Drying oil
• Sandpaper
• Pencil
• Matches
• collet knife
• Vegetable oil
• Wax candle/sealing wax
• rags
• Brush
• Cautery on wood
• Napkins

1. First of all, you need to process a wooden stick with sandpaper. Particular attention should be paid to the part where the seal will be cut. Now you need to carefully cut out the print image with a knife.
2. Tape the cut out picture to the end of the stick with tape. Color the tree through the slits on the paper with a pencil. Do not forget that you need to apply a picture to the tree in a mirror image.
3. Remove the glued paper. Using a special device, you need to burn symbols on a tree along pencil lines. Ideally, they should all be even and of the same depth.
4. Cover the end of a wooden stick with drying oil and wipe it thoroughly with a rag. Now you need to leave the workpiece to dry for at least a day.

After drying, the print is completely ready. The impression can be put on paraffin, wax or sealing wax. Wax can be obtained from a candle. You just need to light it and drip a little on the right place. Before printing, dip the seal in vegetable oil and blot the excess. When removing a stamp from wax or sealing wax, shake it slightly from side to side so as not to spoil it.

This kind of homemade seal can be used not only as a stamp, but also as an original accessory.

• Cotton buds
• power unit
• masking tape
• Grinders (angle, Dremel)
• Salt solution
• sharp knife
• Sandpaper 200 and 600 grit
• File
• Cotton buds

1. First of all, you need to clamp the nut with pliers and gradually grind off the corners of it. Leave only one edge unfinished. Don't forget about safety precautions.
2. Now you need to narrow it and give it the shape of a ring. Keep the sides symmetrical. When you have narrowed the ring to the degree you need, proceed to remove the chamfers from the edges of the ring. After that, finalize the form.
3. Use a Dremel grinder to remove the internal threads. This must be done evenly. Don't forget about symmetry. Pay extra attention to the chamfers inside the signet ring.
4. A file will be needed to smooth out the grooves from the grinding machine. Bring the ring to perfect condition with sandpaper (first it is better to use with grit 600, then 200). Sanding paper will help to achieve the best smoothness of the ring.
5. Come up with a printable design. These may be your initials.
6. Draw the desired symbols on the ring, stick masking tape on the surface and cut them out with a sharp knife.
7. Connect the positive wire of the power supply to the ring. Dip a Q-tip in the saline solution and attach the negative wire to the wet part of it. Then run the ring with the electrode obtained several times in those places that need to be etched. After that, disconnect the wires and peel off the adhesive tape.
8. Cover the ring with polyurethane varnish. Signet ring is ready!

The signet ring can be worn like a regular ring. If you want to use it to make an impression on paraffin, wax or sealing wax, then just follow the technology described above.

As you have already noticed, all kinds of seals and stamps can be made from almost any material. If you are interested in new ideas or want to see the process of creating a stamp with your own hands visually, then below is a selection of several videos on the topic.

Linocut or how to make a stamp with your own hands

Engraving is the true art of replicating an image. Stamps can also be called a kind of engraving in a minimal format. In this master class, you will learn how to make a stamp with your own hands and feel like a real master engraver. This stamp is suitable for printing with acrylic, oil and printing ink.

An engraving cliche, which is correctly called a "board", is made of wood (woodcut), linoleum (linocut), metal (etching) and stone (lithography). It is best to start with linocut: linoleum is easy to cut and devoid of fibers, unlike wood.

Tools and materials for creating a stamp with your own hands

• a piece of economy class linoleum
• stationery knife
• wooden base (for example, a simple wooden cube)
• PVA glue or any other
• optional: you can use a linoleum engraver (they differ from chisels in size)

How to make a stamp with your own hands

Linoleum should be taken the cheapest, even, without texture (or with minimal texture) and preferably dense. You can buy a piece of special art linoleum for linocut in an art store. I like this one most of all for its structure, but when I need to cut something in large quantities, I use the most common one.

On linoleum you need to apply a drawing. The easiest way is to redraw with a pencil or pen directly on the linoleum, in a mirror image. But, when it comes to the exact transfer of the picture, it is better to print the layout in the desired size on a laser printer (an inkjet will not work) and transfer the image to linoleum using an iron.

Attention! When you apply a drawing in this way, it does not need to be mirrored!

I ironed it, let's see what happened.

Now we cut. Let's go through the contour of the ampersand with a clerical knife, and in large areas - with engravers, which can be dispensed with if the work is small.

Advice: If the linoleum is too soft to cut, you can put it in the freezer for a while. Conversely, if the material is difficult to cut, it is better to heat it on a battery or in warm water.

We cut out the letter, we also remove the excess material along the edges. We try to level the surface in large spaces.

Now you need to make a test print and trim the flaws, if any. I also lightly go over the fine-grained sandpaper to even out the surface of the stamp.

Can be printed with regular water-based ink or acrylic. The main thing is that immediately after printing, clean the stamp from ink residues in warm water (if oil, then with a solvent or turpentine) and leave to dry naturally (not on a battery!).

With this simple method, you can create an absolutely unique drawing.

But it is worth remembering: the larger the board, the harder you need to press so that the material absorbs the paint. Sometimes it is no longer possible to do it by hand. For example, the A3 print on a T-shirt shown in the photograph was already printed using an etching machine. Smaller stamps can be tapped with a wooden mallet for a perfect impression.

live internet live internet

— Diary search

— Interests

— Communities

Making seals and stamps at home

It's not difficult, you can turn any black and white image into a print (stamp). Making a personal seal will cost less than buying a ready-made seal.

Step 1. Materials and tools for making a seal (stamp)

* digital timer (for timing)

* washing solution

* two liquid containers

* soft brush (toothbrush)

* body powder, cornstarch or talc

Step 4. Preparation for irradiation

Step 5 Irradiate the Image

Step 6 Washing the Stamp

Step 7. Final transformation of the seal (stamp)

DIY rubber stamp

You understand, the scope of these gizmos is limitless - scrapbooking, postcards, gifts for children, printing on fabric / paper / walls, and so on. I needed to make a stamp with the logo of my jewelry workshop. Now I can turn ordinary kraft paper packaging into a memorable and pleasant one, one that would not be embarrassing to give as a gift.

So, we need:

- Sketch
- rubber block (a regular eraser will do)
- wood cutters
- craft knife
- ball pen
- wax crayon

If this list scares you, don't worry! Everything can be easily ordered on ebay.com, they even sell ready-made kits for a beginner carver. Perhaps this is the easiest way to purchase materials and tools, I know from my own experience that it is quite difficult to find special rubber blocks or a thin breadboard knife in our stores.

So, as a basis, I took the finished logo of my jewelry workshop.

Print the drawing in the desired size, I just drew mine again. I must say that in a fit of inspiration, I completely forgot that the template should be mirrored, so I cut out an inverted picture. In my case, it's okay, but if you need to make an inscription, remember this!
I added some measurements to make sure everything fits.

To translate the contour, I used this method - I densely sketched the back of the template with wax crayon, then circled the contour again with a ballpoint pen - already on the block.

Even after a firm pen, the outline on the block will be barely visible

Therefore, once again with a pen, draw all the lines

A little advice - it is better to immediately draw the lines of the desired thickness, and not leave them thin, as in the photo. Much easier to cut later.
Actually, the massacre begins further. Of the entire set of wood cutters, it makes sense to use these:

semicircular and L-shaped. For very thin details, I used a breadboard knife.

Carefully and slowly begin to remove excess rubber. I don’t know how to do it according to all the rules, so I relied on my own feelings and the moment of convenience. Do not try to immediately remove deeply, it is better to go in small movements and deepen gradually.

I went through very thin places with a breadboard knife. If it suddenly happened to brush off the excess, for example, a hand jumped off and the cutter walked across the line, it's okay. First, think, maybe leave it like that. When printing, there will still be flaws, perhaps your mistake will not be noticeable. If the mistake is critical, arm yourself with rubber glue and just stick a piece of gum where you need it.
That's it. It took me about 40 minutes to cut out such a picture 5 by 5 cm. But it was my first time, the second one was already much faster.

Test print - check what happened.

A little refine the details, and you can seal the bags!

Inspired by the success, I immediately made a stamp with calligraphy, although I didn’t intend to - I used to think that it would be too difficult. But no, everything is possible and quite real!

And finally, more stamps!

Thank you all for your attention and success in your work!