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The first silk fabrics were very rare and expensive, so they were worn only by rulers and their family members. In all likelihood, inside the palace they dressed in white clothes, and on ceremonial occasions - in. With the expansion of production, silk gradually became available to the court and then to wider sections of the population.

Gradually, a real cult of silk arose in China. Old Chinese texts mention sacrifices to the Silkworm God, as well as sacred mulberry groves and the veneration of individual mulberry trees.

Already in the era of the Warring States (475-221 BC), silk and silk products spread everywhere in China to almost all segments of the population. Mencius (372-289 BC), “The Second Perfectly Wise One,” proposed planting mulberry trees along the perimeter of “well fields” so that young and old would wear silk clothes.

Silk was widely used in the economy. In addition to being used as fabric for clothing and embroidery, it was used to make strings for musical instruments, bow strings, fishing lines and even paper. During the reign of the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD), silk became a kind of universal monetary equivalent: peasants paid taxes in grain and silk, and the state also paid officials in silk.

The value of silk was calculated based on its length and was equal to gold. Silk became, in fact, a currency used in settlements with other countries. The important role of silk in Chinese culture is evidenced by the fact that out of the 5 thousand most commonly used, about 230 have the key “silk”.

Technologies of sericulture, embroidery, and fabric dyeing were rapidly improved. This continued until the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

The volume and quality of silk products gradually increased. The brightness of the colors, the richness and perfection of the embroidery were amazing. From the 2nd century. BC. foreign trade was established - the famous Silk Road. A key role in this process was played by Zhang Qian 张骞 (?-114 BC), a Chinese diplomat and traveler who opened the countries of Central Asia to China and Chinese trade. Along caravan routes, some of which existed before, caravans loaded with Chinese goods set off for the West.

However, a number of historical and archaeological facts indicate that other countries learned about Chinese silk much earlier. Thus, in one of the Egyptian villages near Thebes and in the Valley of the Kings, female mummies were discovered wrapped in silk fabrics dating back to the 11th century. BC. This is probably the earliest discovery.

After the reign of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), special weaving workshops were founded, initially producing ceremonial headdresses, and later multi-colored silk fabrics. Fabrics were dyed with plant dyes: flowers, leaves, bark, and plant roots. The main weaving centers were located in the modern provinces of Henan, Hebei, Shandong and Sichuan. The Tang era was a time of intense silk trade; it was found in the territory of modern Xinjiang, Turfan, Tajikistan and even in the North Caucasus.

The Greeks and Romans called China the “Land of Silk” - Serika. Silk was extremely popular among the nobility. It was extremely expensive, but nevertheless, people willingly bought it. The price could reach up to 300 denarii - the salary of a Roman legionnaire for a whole year! The import of silk had already begun to threaten the very economy of the Roman Empire. In 380, the Roman historian Ammianus Marcellinus (c. 330-after 395) wrote that "the use of silk, which was once limited only to the nobles, has now spread to all classes without distinction, even to the lowest".

The barbarians were also captivated by this amazing material. The Goth Alaric, who captured Rome in 409, demanded, among other things, 4,000 silk tunics.

However, the mystery of making silk remained unsolved for a long time. Many fantastic explanations have been proposed. Thus, Virgil (1st century BC), for example, believed that silk was made from fleece from leaves. The Greek historian Dionysius (1st century BC) believed that silk was made from flowers. It was suggested that shiny silk threads grew on trees, or that it was created by huge beetles, or that it was made from the down of birds. Roman historian of the 4th century. Ammianus Marcellinus provided this explanation: “Silk fabrics are made from soil. Chinese soil is soft as wool. After watering and special processing, it can be used to form silk threads.".

The Chinese zealously guarded the secret of silk production. Anyone who tried to transfer silkworm eggs, larvae, or cocoons abroad was executed. However, in Korea, and then in Japan, they learned the secret of silk production. It is believed that to Korea around the 2nd century. BC. it was brought by the Chinese themselves, who emigrated there. Silk appeared on the Japanese Islands in the 3rd AD. Then, in the 4th century, silk production was established in India.

There are several legends telling how silk manufacturing technology became known in other countries. One of them agrees that the Chinese princess was engaged to the prince of Khotan. Her groom wanted his bride to bring with her mulberry seeds and silkworm larvae. According to another version, the princess herself wanted to bring them to her new homeland. She hid the seeds and larvae in her bouffant hairstyle and took them outside of China. This happened around 440. And from there the secret of silk production spread throughout the world.

According to another half-legend, half-history, the secret was revealed by two Nestorian monks. Around 550, they secretly brought silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds in their hollow bamboo staves to the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I (483-565).

Thus, Byzantium became the first country entering the Western world where its own sericulture appeared. The church and the state created their own silk workshops, monopolizing production and zealously guarding the secret of its production. In the 6th century, the Persians mastered the art of silk weaving and created their own masterpieces.

Catholic prelates wore rich silk robes and decorated altars with them. Gradually, the fashion for silk spread among the nobility. In the 8th-9th centuries, silk began to be produced in Spain, and four centuries later, silk was successfully produced by the cities of the Apennine Peninsula, several cities of which gave their names to the fabrics. It is believed that Italian silk originates from two thousand skilled craftswomen exported to Italy from Constantinople in the 13th century.

Today silk is produced in many countries of the world: China, Italy, India, Spain, France. But China is still the largest exporter of raw silk and silk products on the world market.

Silk production technology

For centuries, silk remained a luxury product for most countries of the world, for which people paid their last money. Silk production is a very long and painstaking process that requires constant attention. Currently, a number of procedures are automated.

Over the centuries, sericulture has developed and improved, becoming an exact science. But even now the technology for producing silk is based on old methods.

Silk is obtained from the cocoons of silk moths. There are many varieties of wild silk moth. But only one of them became the ancestor of the famous Bombyx mori- a blind, wingless moth, from which the best silk is obtained. It is believed that it originated from Bombyx mandarina mori- a wild silk moth that lives on white mulberry trees only in China. Through selective breeding, she has lost her ability to fly and can only eat, mate, produce offspring, and produce silk fibers.

In addition, there is another type of moth in nature - Antheraea mylitta, also producing silk fiber, but coarser. The threads obtained from it are called tussah.

Female Bombyx mori, hatching from the cocoon, mates with the male. After this, within 4-6 days she lays up to 500 or more eggs, and soon after that she dies. Only healthy eggs are selected for further use. They are sorted and tested for infection. Sick eggs are burned. Silkworm eggs are very small and light - the weight of a hundred barely reaches 1 gram. They are kept at a temperature of about 18 degrees Celsius, gradually increasing it to 25 degrees Celsius.

Around the seventh day, small worms hatch, the size of which does not exceed 2 mm. It is this larval stage of the moth that is actually called the silkworm. Then, throughout the month, the silkworms constantly eat, increasing their weight and size. So, at the age of 4-5 weeks their length reaches 3 cm or more, and during this time their weight increases thousands of times!

They feed exclusively on mulberry leaves, which are collected and selected for them by hand, and then crushed. Feeding occurs regularly, day and night. During this time, thousands of feeding worms are kept in special trays that are placed one on top of the other.

The room where the worms are kept is maintained at a constant temperature and humidity. They must be protected from any fluctuations in the external environment, such as: loud sounds, drafts, strong odors of food and even sweat. The thousands of jaws crushing the mulberry leaves produce a constant hum, reminiscent of the sound of heavy rain drumming on a roof. During this time, the worms molt several times, gradually changing their color from gray to pale pink.

Finally, the time comes to spin a cocoon. The silkworm begins to worry, shaking its head back and forth. The caterpillars are placed in separate compartments. With the help of two special glands - spinnerets - the worms begin to produce a gelatinous substance that hardens upon contact with air. The substance that silkworms produce includes two main components. The first is fibroin, an insoluble protein fiber that accounts for 75-90% of production. The second is sericin, an adhesive substance designed to hold the cocoon fibers together. In addition to them, there are also fats, salts, and wax.

In three to four days, silkworms spin a cocoon around themselves, placing themselves inside it. They look like white fluffy elongated balls. At this time, the cocoons are sorted by color, size, shape, etc.

Then another 8-9 days pass, and the cocoons are ready to unwind. If you miss time, the pupa will turn into a moth and break through the cocoon, damaging the integrity of the thread. Therefore, the pupa must first be killed. To do this, it is subjected to heat, after which the cocoon is immersed in hot water to dissolve the adhesive substance sericin, which holds the threads together. At this moment, only a small part of it is removed, about 1%, but this is enough to allow the thread to be unwound.

After this, they find the end of the thread, pass it through the porcelain eye and carefully begin to unwind it, winding it onto the bobbin. Each cocoon produces a thread, on average, from 600 to 900 meters in length, and individual individuals - up to 1000 meters or more!

Then 5-8 threads are twisted together to make one thread. When one of the threads ends, a new one is twisted to it, and thus a very long thread is formed. Sericin promotes the adhesion of one thread to another. The resulting product is raw silk, wound into skeins of yarn. Currently this process is automated.

Skeins of raw silk yarn are sorted by color, size and other characteristics. Then the silk threads are twisted again to achieve a uniform structure and density. At this stage, you can also twist different yarns to create different fabric textures. Next, the threads are passed through special rollers. After this, the yarn goes to the weaving factory.

Here the yarn is soaked again in warm soapy water. Refining occurs, as a result of which the weight of the yarn is reduced by approximately 25%. The yarn then turns a creamy white color and can then be dyed and further processed. Only after this can you start making fabric.

Silk fibers that were not used for spinning threads, for example, from destroyed cocoons, torn ends, etc., can also be twisted into threads, like those obtained from cotton or flax. This silk is of lower quality and tends to be weak and frayed. It can be used, for example, to make a silk blanket.

Interesting statistics: on average, 111 cocoons are required for silk for a man's tie, and 630 for silk for sewing a woman's blouse!

Despite the fact that many artificial fibers have now appeared - polyester, nylon, etc., none of them can compare in quality with real silk. Silk fabrics keep you warm in cool weather and cool in hot weather; they are pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye. In addition, silk thread is stronger than steel thread of the same diameter!

In conclusion, a short poem about the difficulties of breeding silkworms:

养蚕词
Yăng can cí
Songs about feeding silkworms

作者：缪嗣寅
Zuòzhě: Miào Sìyín

蚕初生，
Can chū shēng
[When] the silkworm is born,

采桑陌上提筐行；
Cǎi sāng mò shàng tí kuāng xíng
I collect mulberry leaves and walk along the boundary with a basket;

蚕欲老，
Cán yù lǎo
[When] the silkworm caterpillar is about to mature,

夜半不眠常起早。
Yèbàn bù mián cháng qǐ zǎo
I don’t sleep late at night and often get up early in the morning.

衣不暇浣发不簪，
Yī bù xiá huàn fà bù zān
I don’t have time to wash my clothes and I don’t style my hair,

还恐天阴坏我蚕。
Hái kǒng tiān yīn huài wǒ cán
I'm also afraid that rainy weather will ruin my silkworms.

回头吩咐小儿女，
Huítóu fēnfù xiǎo nǚ’er
Looking around, I teach my little daughter,

蚕欲上山莫言语。
Cán yù shàng shān mò yányŭ
[When] the silkworm caterpillars are about to rise up [to secrete silk], don't you dare talk!

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To the northeast of India, behind the high Himalayas, lies China. The ancient Chinese called their country the “Celestial Empire” or the “Middle Kingdom”, as they believed that it lay in the middle of four seas: East, South, Sand and Rocky. The harsh and waterless Gobi Desert was called the Sand Sea, and Tibet, a mountainous region on the other side of the Himalayas, was called the Rocky Sea.

There are two large rivers in China - the Yellow River and the Yangtze. The names of the rivers mean: “Yellow water” and “Blue water”. The water of the Yellow River is really yellowish in color because it carries with it a lot of yellow clay. The first farmers settled in the fertile Yellow River valley; they grew millet, raised pigs and cattle. Location of ancient China

In 221 BC, the Qin ruler Ying Zheng united large territories into a single empire and took the title Qin Shi Huang, which means “First Emperor of the Qin Dynasty.” He established sole dominance over the entire territory of Inner China and went down in history as the ruler of the first centralized Chinese state. The Qin dynasty he founded, which planned to rule China for 10 thousand generations, was overthrown a few years after his death. Qin Shi Huang

The main food of the Chinese is rice. Growing rice is hard. The peasants plowed the field in knee-deep water and sowed rice. Economy of Ancient China Silk was highly valued. Sometimes people paid for goods not with money, but with pieces of silk. Only noble and rich people had the right to wear silk clothes. The Chinese were the first to learn how to grow tea bushes and prepare tea. From them the tea bush came to the countries of Western Europe and to us

normative traditional Chinese literary language, which began to take shape in the 14th century BC. e. in the Yellow River valley and, later, on the wider Great Plain of China. In its written form, the ancient Chinese language became the common literary language for all of East Asia (Japan, Korea, Vietnam) and performed this function until the beginning of the 20th century, when, as a result of the May 4th movement (1919), the official written language in China became the literary language. Baihua (literally 'understandable language') was declared, which began to form on the basis of the living dialects of Northern China back in the Six Dynasties period (420-589 AD). Ancient Chinese language

Like other peoples, in the earliest times of their history, the ancient Chinese worshiped the forces of nature. They imagined them in the form of good and evil spirits and demons. The ruler of rains, thunderstorms, river waters and all underground forces was the dragon. Over time, the dragon became the symbol of the king. The Chinese revered five sacred mountains, with Taishan considered the most important. It was called the “world mountain”, which connects heaven and earth. The most powerful oath of the Chinese began with the words: “Until the Yellow River becomes shallow, until Taishan is razed to the ground, I swear...”. Beliefs of the ancient Chinese

Confucius, one of the great sages of antiquity, is a kind of symbol of China, its culture, and philosophical thought. Confucius is also considered the great first teacher of all Chinese. For many dozens of generations, billions of Chinese residents (this also applies to their neighbors - the Japanese, Koreans, Vietnamese) sacredly revered him as a teacher of life. Ancient Chinese sage Confucius

Weapons of the Ancient Chinese Army Bows in Ancient China were made of bamboo, which was ideal for making throwing devices. According to their design, they were divided into two main types: made from a single bamboo trunk and made in a combined way from several layers (plates) of bamboo glued together. The heavy weapons of the Chinese army include war chariots. A war chariot was usually harnessed to four war horses, but there could be two or three. The crew of the war chariot consisted of three warriors, one of whom drove the horses, and the other two fought. If there was a commander on the chariot, then he sat on the right, the driver in the center, and the bodyguard on the left.

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Slide presentation for a labor lesson in grades 5-7 on the topic: “Natural silk”

Slide presentation provided by: Rima Ivanovna Boschenko, technology teacher St. Natukhaevskaya Municipal Educational Institution Secondary School No. 26 email: [email protected]

1. Caterpillars and cocoons.
2. A little history.
3. Fabric making.
4. Properties of silk.
5. Use of silk.
6. Caring for natural silk

They learned to make silk in Ancient China about 5 thousand years ago.

Only women of the imperial family bred silkworms and collected and processed cocoons. Disclosure of the secret of obtaining silk was punishable by death.

If someone tried to take silkworms out of China, then he too would face the death penalty.

Silk came to India thanks to a cunning Chinese princess, who hid silkworm larvae in her high hair before she was sent on her way to her groom, the Indian king.

SILK IN EUROPE.

It wasn't until 550 AD that two wandering monks smuggled silkworm larvae into Byzantium. This is how silk appeared in Europe.

In European countries, silk was in great demand and was very expensive. Only noble people were allowed to wear silk clothes.

In ancient Rome, a pound of gold was paid for a pound of silk.

In the 13th-15th centuries, silkworming became the main industry in Italy. Silk was woven in Venice, Genoa, Florence and Milan.

And only in the 18th century did they learn to weave silk in Russia.

A silk dress in the 17th century cost a fortune.

CATERPILLARS AND COCOONS

The silkworm butterfly lays more than 500 eggs in early summer.

Silkworm caterpillars feed on white mulberry leaves for a month and a half.

After this they are ready to weave their cocoon. The thinnest, almost invisible thread is pulled out from the hole in the caterpillar's jaws.

The caterpillar attaches its cocoon to a tree branch. Each cocoon contains from 400 to 1100 meters of the finest silk fiber.

Cocoons are collected and sorted.

The highest quality cocoons are left for further breeding.

The rest of the windows are boiled in water, which dissolves the glue.

Fibers from several cocoons are combined into one thread and wound onto a reel, producing raw silk.

Raw silk twisted into a single silk thread. To do this, fibers from 1012 cocoons are combined together.

Handloom work attracts tourists. Handmade silk fabric is valued several times more expensive than factory fabric.

Mulberry- these are silkworm threads. This type of silkworm is bred better than others in captivity. This silk is the most produced in the world.

Tussar very strong thread. It is obtained from wild silkworms, collecting cocoons in the forest. These threads are used to make fabric for curtains and furniture upholstery.

Tussar oak silkworm is much thinner than ordinary tussar. The fiber color ranges from beige to chocolate. The fabric made from it is thinner and very durable. Therefore it is valued much more.

Erie- the lowest quality silk. The cocoons of these caterpillars are collected after the butterflies emerge. That's why the threads in them are cut. After the cocoons are washed, they are processed and woven like wool or cotton.

Muga- the most expensive type of silk. Caterpillars of this species feed only on leaves of aromatic trees. The fiber is very thin and strong, and has a bright golden color. Fabrics made from such threads do not lose their elasticity, natural golden hue and shine for up to 50 years.

Properties of silk fibers

Silk fiber:

• uniform in thickness
• elastic
• shiny
• durable
• long

Properties of silk fabrics

Silk fabrics:

• lungs
• shiny
• allow air to flow well
• quickly absorb moisture
• dry quickly
• wrinkles a little
• are not electrified
• drape well
• do not shrink
• does not attract dust
• hypoallergenic
• Natural silk does not harbor insects and dust mites.

Application natural silk due to its excellent properties

• Summer or dressy clothes
• Tablecloths
• Curtains
• Bed sheets
• Upholstery
• Filling pillows with silk fiber

Questions for consolidation

1. What types of silkworms did we meet?
2. What do silkworms eat?
3. Which country learned to produce natural silk earlier than others?
4. What is a cocoon?
5. How long can a fiber reach on one cocoon?
6. What properties does silk fiber have?
7. Name the properties of silk fabrics.
8. What products can be made from natural silk?

A few words after watching

JOURNEY THROUGH THE FABRIC SEA Classification of textile fibers Textile fibers Natural plant origin cotton Chemical animal origin wool flax jute kenaf etc. silk of mineral origin asbestos Natural fibers of animal origin YUNGA! These animals are bred for wool. How to identify wool? Wool fibers under a microscope Microscopic characteristics of sheep wool The shape and location of the scales affects the degree of shine of the wool: tightly fitting scales, strongly reflecting light, give a silky shine; steep ones, on the contrary, scatter light incorrectly, and therefore the hairs seem less shiny. Sometimes the cortical layer is very thin, sometimes it expands to almost the entire hair; It can be either without stripes or with narrow or wide, regularly or incorrectly located stripes. The core, wool, if only it is available, can A the finest noble merino -Wool, similar in characteristics, - and long and coarse wool (called dachshund or very narrow, reaching 4/5 of the microscopic width of a hair; from 1- 4 rows of round oblong cells, filled with sharper fine-grained stripes, and under several concave flat layers lying next to each other with a mass with separate cells that appear in a microscope with the rest of the scales in groups of more dark, medullary parts. Characteristic - “comb” Worsted ++ n = worsted “comb” Worsted wool, = worsted mill, “combed wool” worsted comb shop Remember new words! awn fiber (transitional hair) is a thicker, stiffer and less crimped fiber. Dead hair is a low-strength and very stiff fiber that consists of thin, crimped downy fibers that are uniform in thickness and length. Due to their good elasticity, wool products do not wrinkle. The veins begin and turn the leaf into a thin lace. Later they eat them too. cocoon curling. surface, most of which is deposited. The number of eggs in a meal, clutch varies from jaws 400 to 800 pieces, sticks the silkies into the head, tears them apart with legs and comes out. When between the number of adults are busy, the rustling of their chewing produces The main thing in the design of the cocoon is that the caterpillars are that it consists of one continuous silk thread, the length The average clutch contains about five hundred noises. A small furry characteristic noise comes out of the egg, between which there is rain and eggs. falling tree leaves. cocoon. which varies by 300 and 1500 can be compared with m. Coconut has an oval shape. Its color can be silvery-white, pale. During 30-40 days of its development, the caterpillar eats about 30 g of mulberry leaf, and by the time the cocoon is formed, the caterpillar is about 3 mm long. pink. After finishing the cocoon, the caterpillar turns into a pupa. its length reaches 8-9 cm, and its weight is 3-5 g. This means that from the moment their egg is released, the caterpillar increases in length by 2530 times and in weight by 6-10 times. Continuous growth entails periodic molting of the shell. From time to time the shell bursts, separates from the body, and falls off it. The silkworm caterpillar has five molts. “SILK” - “CHINA”, “fabric from China” “sericus” - “Chinese matter” “seres” - China “silki” “silk” “selk” “selk” “silk” processing of cocoons before transportation and storage steam treatment with in order to soften the silk glue, steam treatment to kill the pupae, drying with hot air to remove moisture, winding silk threads together from several cocoons. The purpose of the primary processing of silk is to unwind the cocoon thread. Properties of silk fiber The thickness of the cocoon thread is uneven throughout its entire length. The length of the unwound cocoon thread is 600-900 m. The strength of silk is slightly higher than the strength of wool. Silk fabrics go on sale under the names: satin, velvet, crepe de Chine, chiffon and others. Practical work Comparative characteristics of fabrics made from wool and silk fibers Materials and tools: fabric samples, textbook, workbook, matches, container with water Safety rules: wear protective clothing, handle fire carefully, match mascara in a container with water. 1. 2. 3. 4. Progress of work Examine pieces of cotton and linen fabrics. Compare them with each other in appearance and to the touch. Select a thread from the fabric, carefully set it on fire, determine how it burns, what smell it emits. Write the results in a table. Type of fiber Wool Distinctive features of the fabric By appearance To the touch Surface Soft, rough, matte feeling heat Silk Surface smooth, shiny Soft, feeling of coolness Reaction to combustion When removed from the flame, burning stops, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed with fingers When removed from the flame, burning stops, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed between the fingers Help Masha and for the bear to assemble the cubes into words on the topic “Materials Science”. ? A C B T Homework of your own choice Compose and design a collection of fabrics and other textile products. The themes of the collections can be varied: “Varieties of fabrics by fiber”, “Varieties of fabrics by purpose”, “Varieties of fabrics by finishing method”, etc. Select or draw illustrations for the topic: Cotton and linen, wool and silk fabrics. Prepare interesting messages on this topic. Pick up riddles, proverbs, sayings about fabrics. We use