Modern track LED lamps create directional radiation with the ability to change the direction of the angle of light. The design of the devices allows you to create lighting areas with any ceilings or without them. Fastening is carried out in two ways: using a special niche or busbar. Thanks to a special mount, you can change the height of the lighting system.

How to buy track lights in Moscow

From other LED devices, these differ in the method of attachment. To install the system, a special busbar is used. Its design includes suspensions and fasteners. Installation is carried out on a surface or a track system on cables. The second option allows you to mount devices in exhibition halls, retail space no ceilings. Advantages of LED track lights:

• Unique mounting system that allows mounting on surfaces with any angle of inclination;
• the possibility of installing lighting in areas without a ceiling;
• low power consumption, saving;
• pleasing to the eye and harmless radiation;
• installation in rooms with low and high temperatures is allowed;
• long service life of devices.

In this review I will tell you about an interesting lighting fixture. I thought for a long time how it would be correct to call it. The inscription on its top cover Vehicle travel light Google translates as "traffic indicator light vehicle”, Further in the review, I will simply call this lighting device a lamp or a lamp.

Earlier I said about the inscription on the lid, however, it is difficult to call this place with the inscription a lid, it does not open. The lamp is made in a plastic non-separable case with a matte plastic bulb.
Magnets are built into the bottom of the lamp, thanks to which the lamp can be attached to any metal object. (the main thing is not to non-ferrous metal) The magnets are quite powerful, they hold the lamp well in any position. The video on the shop page shows the cars driving with this lamp attached to the roof. If you don’t drive fast and don’t run into bumps, then the lamp on the roof or some other part of the body will hold up quite well. And silicone inserts eliminate the possibility of lamp slipping and prevent damage to the coating of the surface on which the lamp will be installed.

On the top of the lamp there is a handle for which the lamp can be hung, for example, in a tent or garage or somewhere else. On the same handle is a micro USB port for charging the lamp. The handle is fixed in the desired position due to small recesses on its surface. Two guides prevent the handle from turning around its axis. After a month of use, the lamp handle began to pull out a little easier. If the handle is pulled out halfway and hung up, then the lamp holds and does not roll, although over time I think this will happen.

The lamp does not shine very brightly, but it will be enough to illuminate small enclosed spaces. Such as, for example, a tent or a car interior. The brightness of the lamp is adjusted by pulling out the knob, the more the knob is pulled out, the brighter it shines. But in any case, regardless of the position of how far you pulled the handle, the LEDs shine the same way, only the gap through which the light comes out changes. The light source is 8 RGB LEDs.

The lamp has several lighting modes. If the handle is pulled out, we get a white glow, if we then insert the handle back and pull it out again, we get a yellow glow. By inserting and pulling out the handle again, a purple glow will turn on, which will gradually shimmer with all colors. And the next lighting mode is flashing red.

At night, he took the lamp outside and hooked it to the garage.

The store declared the following characteristics of the lamp:
1. Working time: 6-8 hours
2. Rated power: 1.5W
3. Battery capacity: 1200mAh
4. Supply voltage: 5V
5. Weight: 0.27kg
6. Size: 84*84*200mm

The lamp comes in cardboard box, which also contains a small instruction for use in three pictures. The box also contains a USB cable for charging the device and instructions.

I'll put a photo of the instructions and cable in the spoiler.

Instruction and cable

Here are a few uses for this lamp that the seller suggests:
1. Trunk or engine compartment lighting.
2.Tent lighting for any other small space.
3. Lighting night gatherings if there is no fire.
4. As a car alarm.

Here are some photos from the product page. I just don't think it's a good idea to read under this lamp.

For a more visual representation of the brightness of this lamp, I measured the illumination created by the lamp at a distance from the luxmeter sensor of 50 cm, 40 cm, 30 cm, 20 cm and 10 cm. The obtained values ​​\u200b\u200bcan be seen in the following figure. They amounted to 11, 20, 38, 90 and 236 Lux, respectively.

I’ll add on my own that this lamp turned out to be a very good night light, in fact, in this area I use this lamp. As for the use of a lamp as an alarm, I do not think that the traffic rules allow such use. But I think traffic rules allow you to mark your car on the side of the road with this lamp.

Also, the lamp is not very badly located in the tent.

There are screws under the silicone pads at the bottom. By unscrewing which you can get close to the magnet.
The upper part of the lamp could not be disassembled, I will assume that the rest of the body is connected with glue.

And on next photo You can see the dimensions and weight of the lamp.

That's all for me.
Hope the review was helpful.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

Often, "working" designs on magnets are posted on the Internet. One option is "if you take 2 magnets with the same poles to each other, then they will repel." Logically. Now the "feint with the ears" - "it is necessary to place these magnets on the disk at an angle so that they always repel each other."

I was not too lazy to assemble a design similar to the one patented by Lazarev Mikola Vasilovich in the role of "UFO" (patent and translation into Russian). The patent indicates large magnets, and therefore they are not monolithic, in pieces. To eliminate jerkiness, there are 1 or 2 more pieces on one side than on the other side. I had the opportunity to use a solid magnet on one side, because the smoothness there would be 100%. As a result, I was once again convinced that such a structure would move to a stable position and did not intend to rotate:

Here is another refutation of such "magnetic engines":

Magnets can only be attracted or repelled once. The closest analogue is a spring. If you change its state, it will tend to return to its original state. Stretched - will tend to shrink. Analog - 2 magnets with opposite poles to each other. They compressed the spring - similarly, as if 2 magnets are brought closer to each other with the same poles. Replace any magnetic structure with springs - the simulation will be quite accurate. The springs will return to their original position and the system will be static.

If you see a design where the "endless" movement of magnets is only due to constant magnetic fields - this is a blatant lie. They use various tricks in the form of "wires in the sleeves", with a hairdryer behind the back (it was funny to watch how a magnet is applied to an ordinary fan, and it starts spinning without electricity - but show the same fan, but without blades!), secret wiring under the table with a reed switch, electromagnetic pickups from alternating EM field generators, and simply engines in an inconspicuous box nearby (an option is to disconnect the hidden engine after acceleration, after which the camera changes its angle to show that there is nothing at the other end of the shaft). It is very significant when such "perpetual motion machines" INSTANTLY light bulbs (fakers - use it!). It is touching how "seriously" the "inventors" approach the ostentatious maintenance of their "unit", how much work they put into the pretentiousness of the design itself.

There is another area where supposedly you can get "free energy" from magnetic structures. There is already a more "scientific" approach. The reasoning is like this. If a coil is hung on a magnet, and the magnet is "opened" by a certain plate (the plate is small, it does not require much energy to move it), which will "shield the magnetic flux", then an EMF will be induced in the coil due to a change in the strength of the magnetic field. The output will be many times more energy than it takes to simply move a light plate. Logically. And also not too lazy to collect. Faced with the fact that this screen not only shields magnetic fluxes, but also interacts with them perfectly. And you have to apply considerable effort to this plate in order to close or open the magnetic flux. The result is a banal electric generator with low efficiency. I won’t give a diagram, there are plenty of them on the network. The experiment was carried out for a long time, there are no video materials.

Therefore, if you see some "magnetic field breakers" in the magnetic structure, you should know that this is an ordinary generator with an unusual drive. Even if symmetry is incorporated in the design, where 2 plates in 2 different circuits work in antiphase and compensate each other, then in this case there will be no breakthrough - the plate that actively shields the magnetic flux is much stronger than the other plate, which is taken out of another magnetic flux. Even if you manage to compensate for the effect of the magnetic field on the magnetic screen, then this will only slightly improve the efficiency of this electric generator. But as soon as you apply an electrical load to this generator, the effect of the magnetic field on the magnetic screen will increase sharply in the direction of counteraction. Everything will be exactly the same as with a conventional electric generator, which will also rotate easily without load. Don't expect miracles.

As the length of the night increases, I think everyone will have an increased interest in light sources in any form. In this case, the shape is slightly different from conventional lamps, has its pros and cons.

Simple LED lamp. It is convenient to insert into the plafonds, to replace conventional lamps. Unlike LED light bulbs, it has a large area for cooling LEDs and is not prone to overheating. The LEDs do not huddle inside the light bulb, but are scattered along the rays of the star. But you can’t insert it into a regular base either.

Important, keep in mind that a cheap driver does not provide protection, there is a dangerous phase voltage on the petals! For me and for the lamp it was an unpleasant surprise, more on that later.

Came in the usual pimpled packaging and a cardboard box, packed very compactly:

Assembly process, no tools needed:

Assembled, original star, even hang on the Christmas tree)))

We connect to the power supply:

Measuring illumination:

In this case, the luxmeter shows a random number. At a meter from the lamp, the illumination is 140 lux, then it falls as the square of the distance, at two meters the illumination is 4 times lower, at three meters it is 9 times lower, and so on. The light is not directed, but not uniform, it shines more forward. I think the usual radiation pattern of a standard LED.

LED panels after a few minutes have a temperature of about 50 degrees, but do not burn like radiators in ordinary light bulbs with an E14 or E27 base (even with a power of 3 W they overheat there, everything I had, except for a Chinese LED filament lamp, which works 2 years at night every day). The panels are metal, these are not LED strips (how do strips remove heat at all?)

I conducted an experiment, pulled out one panel - a petal during operation, the rest work the same way, one began to glow a little brighter. Pulled out the second, the lamp turned off. In order not to break the circuit, you can turn off the petals through one, but then the parallel will be loaded 2 times stronger and may overheat.

The panels bend if you need to fit into some kind of elongated ceiling. You just need to bend in a place without LEDs, otherwise they will deform and fly off. It’s better in a vice, but it’s also possible around a corner, the main thing is not with your hands in the air, otherwise there will be a large bend radius and it will hook the LED.

We disassemble the case in search of a driver, here the board with connectors is separately made:

The driver itself is on an unnamed microcircuit, from an interesting capacitor of normal capacity, ripples are not noticeable:

The driver does not heat up, there are no extraneous odors from either the plastic or the driver. The lamp works for several hours until it burns out, I think there is nothing to break there (unlike "ordinary" LED bulbs).

For some reason, the seller has only cold light fixtures, but they don’t bluish, the spectrum is normal. I usually take a warm spectrum:

• there is no contrast compared to LN and halogens (when different light in different rooms is somehow annoying), but you can’t completely get away from LN, I haven’t found a replacement for LN 150W for the kitchen;
• blue light is “alarming”, at home it interferes with tuning in to sleep due to the predominance of cold tones, the production of the corresponding “sleep hormones” decreases, the risk of diseases increases
• in lamps with a warm spectrum, there is more phosphor, the light undergoes large changes and CRI is usually higher (but the efficiency is lower for the same reason), but CRI is more important for the home;

There are tiny but tenacious magnets on the back cover, I have not found any use for them, but it may be convenient to attach the lamp with magnets to some ceiling lamps.

Without a ceiling, like LED strips, it tends to blind the eyes, it is advisable to protect it with a diffuser, or direct it to the ceiling.

The size in the assembled state from the edge of one petal to another 5 + 6.5 + 5 \u003d 16.5 cm. The height in the middle part is 2.5 cm.

Fits well in the following shades:

Or to highlight niches above the cabinet, for example:

You can try the 24W version, but here you need to estimate in terms of size, and in terms of thermal power, the heat needs to be dissipated somehow, which is difficult in a closed ceiling. Even at 12W, there is noticeable heat from the lamp.

Although 12W is in doubt here, the current through the LED is 0.09A, the voltage is 3.1V, which gives a total of 6.7W, according to my measurements. With more current, the design will probably start to overheat. It is also possible that the power consumption depends on the supply voltage.

In cheap drivers, they save on fuses, which can cause a circuit fire, not only this one, but any. Here they can help with the minimum current (0.1 Ampere), I try to put them on all low-current consumers.

In general for 2$ interesting offer, I think I will gradually try to replace the light bulbs of the standard form factor with something similar with good heat dissipation.

The package arrived in about 20 days, which is faster than average.

By the way, such “petals” and power supplies are sold separately, and I myself previously bought long 10W LED metal plates with power.

Pets will also approve of light sources in the home, in much the same way as heat sources and food sources :)

Update #1 (24 hours later).

In the comments there was a question about the galvanic isolation of the secondary circuit. The voltmeter shows ~120V on the low voltage side, relative to ground and phase. But this voltage can give an anti-interference filter capacitor (although usually capacitors give a lower voltage, for example 22V relative to phase and ground, the leakage current is so small that even a voltmeter is not enough, you can check it using the example of a system unit).

I measured it by resistance, the low-voltage part is separated from the high-voltage part by more than 18 MΩ, it doesn’t sound like it. Probably due to the diodes in the rectifier bridge and the diode after the transformer, the multimeter does not just create enough voltage to open all the diode strings and shows infinite resistance.

I set up a more demonstrative test, like this:

The photo is just to demonstrate the destructive essence of the experiment)) My electrical protection devices will not allow anything like this, a short circuit does not even always have time to manifest itself with a click.

I connected the low-voltage part, through a 100W incandescent bulb (to limit the current) to a grounded conductor, the LEDs on one petal burned out completely, on the second one. It knocked out the RCD, quite rightly (at the same time checking the RCD, everything is in order with it). Conclusion, the leakage current is large enough and can be dangerous.

Photo after the experiment:

To assess the brightness, it seems that all the petals burn the same way, although one should shine 2 times brighter, it is not noticeable to the eye, probably the matrix goes off scale on the light source:

One of the LEDs (on the petal where 2 LEDs are still lit, the third is dark) does not light up, but the driver “pumps” current through it, then the LED will start to spark under the phosphor, smolder, shine red and burn out completely. This will break the current circuit and the lamp will go out. On the LED, by the way, there will be 260V.

Burnt out LEDs:

The rest of the LEDs and the driver are working only because the leakage current was limited by the bulb. 4 out of 24 LEDs burned out.

After 10 minutes of operation, the LED in the second petal finally degraded and broke the circuit. On the LED that breaks the circuit, a constant voltage of 260V, the driver diligently tries to pump the specified current through the circuit at any cost.

In general, either the driver simply lowers the voltage (step down), or there is no galvanic isolation in the transformer. For office lamps, this is not important (even better, simpler circuit, higher efficiency), but for street lamps it can be dangerous. Well, as they say, forewarned is forearmed. It is surprising that the lamp is sharpened for metal cases, there are magnets, and on the seller's website it is drawn how he installs them in metal shades. What is strange, if there is a phase on the petals, a slight distortion of the structure and voltage will appear on the body of the entire lamp. In plastic cases, this is not a problem. On the website of the seller could warn about this. Although it is possible that this is a luminaire component (not a complete device), and components are bought by people with a higher level of training. I was sure that there is galvanic isolation (this is not a capacitive ballast), and that the driver will not give voltage to the LEDs of a safer 24V, the driver surprised me 2 times, both with a phase on the low-voltage part, and with a high idle voltage of 260V. You need to be more careful about ultra-cheap drivers, they can be fraught with numerous surprises.

In defense of a cheap Chinese, I’ll add, for comparison, I also have a ready-made lamp Russian production, costing more than $ 20, worked for several months and stopped turning on, and according to reviews, they do not live longer. In the driver, a lot of details are replaced by jumpers. It looks something like this, but different in design and from a different manufacturer

Additional Information

Ceiling lamp, inside a surprise in the form of 100 hours of work. The photo is not mine, they look about the same, they differ in the quality of components

Update #2 (2 days later).

Decided to fix the lamp. I took a piece of an aluminum-based LED plate, and broke off a piece, similar in size to a lamp petal. A balancing resistor of 30 ohms is installed in the plate, since it is initially powered by voltage, and in our lamp the current source, and this resistor is completely unnecessary, shunted it with a jumper (several hundred milliwatts of energy will be saved and heating of the plate will decrease). The replaced petals worked just like the previous ones.

By the way, the substrate of the petals is galvanically isolated from the LEDs, which somewhat increases the safety of the lamp, another thing is that the isolation is very conditional, and you can touch the contact pads of the LEDs.

There was a need to adapt the lamp somewhere. Since it is somehow not logical to buy a ceiling lamp for $5 at a lamp price of $2, I decided to experiment with a free housing. First, I dismantled the original case and soldered the rays in pairs of 2 and in series of 4, as they were originally:

The capacitor in the driver, by the way, is 4.7 microfarads, 400 volts, which is quite enough. There is no fuse on the board at all in any form, even in the form of a resistor, the contacts from the network go directly to the diode bridge. I decided to make an imitation of a fuse, I connected one stranded wire, at a current of more than 10 amperes it should melt and break the circuit.

The jumpers between the boards are without insulation, since the current source is not afraid of short circuits, and then it will all be in a sealed case.

I assembled a free case from a 5-liter bottle. I glued the elements with hot glue, and the plates were the petals and the driver.

On the left, the replaced petals are visible, they shine with a warm light, and not cold like the rest:

It turned out something like a light bulb "corn", only with better cooling. Very light lamp. Almost airtight (I made only a millimeter hole at the bottom to drain possible condensate and traces from gluing the two halves), you can hang it on the street, in the garage or at home to highlight some corners, during repairs, for example. It withstands falls from any height, if it gets dirty, you can simply wash it. It shines at the level of an incandescent bulb of 60-75 W according to impressions. I will hang this lamp on the street, for daily night work I think it will last a few years. It was possible to fit everything in a 1.5-liter bottle, but in a 5-liter one, cooling is better and there is a handle for transferring and attaching.

As an option, you can take a glass container, this will give good protection against fire, protection from UV radiation, essentially an eternal case, at a price of about $ 0.5. Such lamps can be scattered around the corners of the yard and permanently close the issue of lighting, cheaply and reliably.

They can also come in handy for the house, sometimes you need to create bright lighting in one of the rooms, for some work with small details, such lamps can be hung simply in clusters (but they are bulky, it will be difficult to store 10 pieces at home).

If I were repeating the design, I would not glue the plates with glue to the walls of the bottle (they can peel off when overheated, especially when working in the summer heat), it is better to twist them with elastic wire and place the finished structure in the bottle, then you can glue it in the same way or fix it with wire paws, which will themselves rest against opposite walls.

According to the thermal regime of this design: consumption from the network is 8.5 W, the temperature of the bottom of the bottle relative to room temperature is +2.5 degrees, the top is +5.7 degrees, opposite the LED plates is +13 degrees. Accordingly, with an increase in power, the heating will increase proportionally. I think you can put 20 watts in a bottle. Maybe even more, but with a fan inside (although here the lamp already goes beyond $ 2 and you can buy a more suitable case).